Anonymous wrote:

Phil, if you are following along I would appreciate your opinion on how thick and wide to make the mast step. As you may recall the displacement of your ComPac is close to the displacement of my S2 6.7

Is 6" tall, total, too much? Is 2" for the collar too much or too little? 

I think I had six beveled layers of 1/2 inch ply for the base, enough to to have good contact area on its bottom and the beveled edges. The upper section that held the mast is probably 2 inches thick.  Brenda B’s hull is flatter than some so the bevels may be flatter with slightly more surface and contact area for the epoxy, first well coated (plywood edges soak it up pretty well) then glued with thickend epoxy. I also glasssed top edge of the base to the hull.  If I get out to the boat tomorrow I’ll double check.

Thank you for the responses. I ordered a water level. I will plan on leveling the boat on the trailer using the bottom of the bootstripe and then make a fore-aft and port-starboard 'level' line on a bulkhead or some other place.

I was thinking I should sail the boat with the original rig at least once before taking the existing mast off. But it keeps on raining! I am not against sailing in the rain but trying to learn how to step a mast and launching a boat for the first time in the rain seems like it could cause problems.

Summer is short. I think I may skip the sailing this summer and stick to working on the conversion.

Scott.

Thank you, Phil and Scott D. for taking the time to respond.

I imagine if I purchased a nice laser level I would find many uses for it on the boat and around the house. The price for the one you suggested, Scott, does seem reasonable. I am just not sure this is the best way to use my limited boat budget right now. I spent about 20 minutes rummaging around my garage trying to find a way to rig a plumb bob before I gave up and bought a 'real' ($4.00 Harbor Freight Tools ) one. I am trying to buy the best materials for the boat and rig. I have a hard time doing that and collecting more tools at the same time.

After considering ACX exterior ply I decided to spring for actual AB marine grade plywood for the mast step. One sheet is sitting in my garage waiting to be made into something useful.

I intend to follow the path that Arne made for us regarding mast step construction. I purchased 1/2" plywood. I am planning on 12 layers total to give me a 6" thick mast step. Also following Arne and Phil I plan to make the top 4 layers (2") a separate section for the final alignment.

To Answer your question, Phil, I have no idea if the keel trunk is square to the waterline but it is a more or less straight and flat surface that I can use for alignment.

I am not sure how I would eyeball the waterline on this boat. Should I use bottom of the vinyl boot stripe decal and assume whoever put that on used the true water line? Should I attempt to use the top edge of the bottom paint? It is old and not a straight and continuous line. I thought about using the top edge of the 'scum' (I need to clean the hull) as the waterline. But even using this I would have to assume that the boat was loaded evenly last time she was in a boat slip. What exactly is 'the water line' on this hull?

I watched a video about how to make and use a water level. I will very seriously consider making one. If I can decide on what to call 'the' water line then this would be very helpful.

Scott.

Anonymous wrote:

Up next is a problem I didn't think about until I tried to measure for the mast center location. Some how I need to identify which direction, exactly, is 0 degrees straight up from the hull through the deck. I am planning to use the forward edge of the keel trunk for this reference. My idea is to strap a bubble level to the forward edge of the trunk and then adjust the trailer until this is as level as I can get it. After that I can use a measuring tape and plumb bob to locate the mast center. Does anyone have a different suggestion?

Can you know that the keel trunk is square to the waterline fore and aft? I used a four foot level and eyballed to the waterline fore/aft and port/sbd to level the boat on its trailer. A much better way would be to use a water level, not difficult to make with some clear tubing.  I built the mast step as Arne did and shows in his write up on Ingeborg. It was in two sections with the step base built up and epoxied to the hull and the upper section,which holds the mast, fastened to the base.  With a smaller boat I felt fine with just screwing the sections together. Having just a couple of lag screws in when I first stepped the mast gave me to option of adjusting the step some.

Unless I missed something (likely!) I now have a completed sail. The loops for lacing the boom were the last things to be attached. I think 10 will be enough, but I am not sure.

Arne, I have been too stingy to purchase AL tubes for battens yet. To follow your advice I bought a wooden dowel with the same diameter that the battens will have. I used this as the 'batten stub' to check the alignment of the larger hoops. I was not completely sure what I was checking for -- I settled on a goal of making sure the big hoops, and not the batten pockets, are holding the weight of the batten. Hopefully I got close enough to doing it 'right'.

Now I have a sail and nothing else.

I am not sure what to start on next. I think I might do the boat modifications in the 'bottom up' direction and work on the mast step.

Does anyone have some advice on what to do next?