S2 6.7 Junk Rig Conversion

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  • 13 Sep 2024 19:12
    Reply # 13406483 on 13405592
    Arne wrote:

    Summary: Start on top and work your way downwards...

    Arne

    Thank you! Somehow I managed to adjust these correctly years ago. This year (I think?) I replaced the HK parrels with 'exact length' lines. During this change it seems I messed up the lines. The sail sets much better now.



    2 files
    Last modified: 13 Sep 2024 19:13 | Anonymous member
  • 11 Sep 2024 21:37
    Reply # 13405592 on 6872873
    Anonymous member (Administrator)


    Summary: Start on top and work your way downwards...


    Arne

  • 11 Sep 2024 21:12
    Reply # 13405578 on 6872873

    I have creases.

    I thought I would be able to spend an hour so this week adjusting my HK parrels to finally eliminate the long creases that show up in some, but not all, of the panels.

    I was able to get the starboard tack looking OK, but then the port tack became worse than before the adjustments.

    Can someone suggest a procedural way to adjust the HK parrel tension? Should I start and the top and work down? Bottom up? Middle first? It seems like when I improve the shape one one panel in makes a different panel worse.

    2 files
  • 26 Apr 2024 15:22
    Reply # 13348597 on 6872873

    I really should have written an update at the end of last summer. I feel like I did a lot of work on my boat but now I can only remember three changes to the rig. So, I only have a very small list of updates.

    Everything takes so much longer than I expect. It is hard to believe how many years I have been messing around with the same rig. Boats, right?

    1. I replaced the fiberglass yard with an aluminum tube.

    Under full sail the fiberglass yard would sometimes bend enough to concern me. After dropping even one panel it would pretty much look straight, so, while I felt it was a problem, I was pretty sure it was not not an immediate problem. I put this off for almost a year after I bought the replacement tube since I remember getting the original yard rigged was very difficult. This is one of the few things that actually was easier than I expected. It seems that most of the difficulty was learning how to rig the yard, not doing the actual work. I was able to rig the new spar in something like half the time I expected. I now have the same size tube in place for my yard, all battens and the boom. I hope this means my battens are oversized and not that my yard is undersized. So far I like the new yard. It is easier to hoist the sail because it is lighter, but it is actually slightly more work to drop the sail completely. The new yard is not heavy enough to allow the top panel to fall all the way to the top of the sail bundle. This has not been a serious problem. I can still get the sail all the way down without leaving the cockpit.

    2. I replaced my 'rope only' mast lift with a webbing mast lift. The rig seems to rotate more easily or, at least, with less noise from the rope rubbing on the mast. I also rigged this mast lift using a snap shackle so it is less work to rig and de-rig the boat each year.

    I have one photo that shows the mast lift and part of the new yard.

    3. I trimmed the lines that attach the sail to the boom. This was one of many things that look untidy. It bothered me. I am happy with the improvement.


    1 file
    Last modified: 26 Apr 2024 15:25 | Anonymous member
  • 08 Sep 2023 19:56
    Reply # 13251966 on 6872873

    I was able in move the double block for the sheet back about 4 or 5 inches. The alignment of the sheetlets seems better, but I am still not sure it is correct. I measured the lengths using the valves from PJR. I double checked everything and I think I followed the recommendations correctly. However, the sheetlet attached to the block seems to be pulling up and and back. I expect it should pull down and back. Any thoughts from those with more experience?



    5 files
    Last modified: 26 Apr 2024 15:09 | Anonymous member
  • 31 Aug 2023 14:34
    Reply # 13248327 on 11134770
    David wrote:

    [...] it seemed to me that the middle of those upper 3 sheeted battens was being pulled more than the battens above and below, which would suggest that the sheetlets are incorrectly set up, and to me, too short. [...]

    After trying to convince myself otherwise for a few years now, I finally understand that my upper sheet spans are not long enough. I recently reworked the sheets to use Pilmer style sheeting. With this setup I can now clearly see the thimble on the upper-most sheet span getting jammed into the thimble on the next lowest sheet span.

    Unfortunately I cannot make the top span longer. There is not enough boat to mount a block farther back.

    So it looks like building a bumkin or an arch or something will be top of the list for the upcoming off-season work.

    Right now I think a bumkin is the way for me to go. I am wondering if anyone can suggest an appropriate size, for strength. I do not see any specifics in PJR.

    I am thinking about using 2x4 dimensional lumber (Pine / Spruce / Fir) tapered to be about 1" x 1" at the far aft end of the bumkin, and 10% of the bumkin buried into the transom of the boat. Held in place with epoxy and glass, I think this should be strong enough. 

    Would anyone like to share their opinion about my plan? It is too big, to small?

    Last modified: 31 Aug 2023 14:37 | Anonymous member
  • 03 Mar 2023 04:49
    Reply # 13117697 on 13115362
    Deleted user
    Scott wrote:

    I would like to learn to vacuum bag and use release fabric (peel ply?) for a better finish, but there is only so much time in the day. I would also like to repaint the whole deck after seeing how much better it looks with a new finish.

    Vacuum bagging is really for laminating up fiberglass components and not really applicable for the repairs you are talking about. Peel Ply is very easy to use and suitable for a good finish on any fiberglass work. When you have applied your last layer of fiberglass you then put the layer of peel ply over the top and work it into the resin using the brush you have been using, or best a roller. When constructing fiberglass components I use a proper serrated laminating roller. When the resin cures gently pull off the peel ply and you end up with a nice smooth almost paint ready finish. The surface will just need a light sand before painting. 
  • 01 Mar 2023 18:05
    Reply # 13115362 on 12826902
    Scott wrote:

    The small cracks in the plywood of the mast partners do not look so small anymore. I am trying to decide if this needs to be fixed right now before I use the rig or if this can wait until next winter for a repair.

    I plan to sand, or grind or plane down the wood to remove the paint and then add 6 oz glass cloth and epoxy. Right now it it is plywood, un-thickened epoxy and paint. It seems like that is not good enough.


    The small cracks didn't seem to be any sort of a structural issue this past sailing season. But I am sure it is best to prevent water from coming into contact with wood.

    I got item number 1 of about 20 checked off my list for the winter. I am confident that sanding the partners back down until I could see my original construction marks, glassing, cleaning the blush, sanding, applying thickened epoxy to some areas that looked like they might be exposed wood, more sanding, a tack rag, a light wipe with acetone and then 4 coats of paint is a solid repair.

    I would like to learn to vacuum bag and use release fabric (peel ply?) for a better finish, but there is only so much time in the day. I would also like to repaint the whole deck after seeing how much better it looks with a new finish.

    3 files
    Last modified: 01 Mar 2023 18:23 | Anonymous member
  • 12 Oct 2022 18:43
    Reply # 12951800 on 6872873

    The sailing season is over for me. I hauled the boat this past Sunday and I wrote out a page-long TODO list for the fall and winter.

    The week before, on October 1st, I clamped my camera on to a dock. I then attempted to sail up and into a video. I should have pointed the camera in a different direction. The wind is light and constantly shifting direction in by the mooring.

    https://youtu.be/iyq3SjjkoXY

    Last modified: 12 Oct 2022 21:05 | Anonymous member
  • 26 Sep 2022 23:17
    Reply # 12933025 on 6872873
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Good videos Scott. The sail looks good too. I hope soon you will find someone to accompany you in another boat and get some good shots of your boat sailing, from an external viewpoint. You deserve it, for what you have achieved.

    Last modified: 27 Sep 2022 22:45 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
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       " ...there is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing as simply messing about in junk-rigged boats" 
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