Galion 22 conversion

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  • 06 Jun 2019 07:47
    Reply # 7558972 on 5070195
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    I am really happy that the new rudder and rudder combination work so well. I hope you eventually produce a write-up with photos and diagrams, and send it to the editor of our magazine. Many will find that article both interesting and useful.


    Last modified: 06 Jun 2019 21:19 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 06 Jun 2019 06:14
    Reply # 7558914 on 5070195


    I used three 28x98 spruce planks and glued + glassed them quite heavily. We’ll see if this will last.

    I also constructed a linking rod which can easily be put on or taken off. The rudders work very well together - tacking has become much easier.

    Last modified: 06 Jun 2019 06:16 | Anonymous member
  • 05 Jun 2019 21:51
    Reply # 7558084 on 5070195
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    how about the actual construction of the aux.-rudder? Did you just glue together a number of planks and glassed the result, or?

    One more thing: Have you tried the aux-rudder when linked to the main rudder? Do they work well together?


  • 05 Jun 2019 17:50
    Reply # 7557353 on 5070195

    It is obvious that on a run there is not as much power as needed in most conditions, but then again I don’t like a full run anyway, because Galion becomes easily very unstable and starts an aggressive sideway motion if there are significant waves present. I think this has something to do with the narrow bow.

    However, on a broad reach the system seems to work very well. 

  • 05 Jun 2019 17:39
    Reply # 7557348 on 5070195

    That's looking good, Jami. The real test of a vane gear is on a very broad reach and a run, that's where any instability will show up. How's it doing there?

  • 05 Jun 2019 17:07
    Reply # 7557277 on 5070195


    yes - I lock the main rudder first, but it seems that in some conditions it’s best to leave it centered. Of course even this helps with the weather helm from the aux rudder’s point of view.

    I made a ”negative” tiller lock that can be seen on the video (the teak block). I have a 6mm bolt on the tiller, and because the tiller can be lifted more than 90 degrees bacwards, I can insert the bolt in one of the holes on the teak block. This opens up lots of space in the cockpit!

    The aux rudder is close to what you drew, but I made it a bit deeper and a bit narrower. I didn’t measure the exact balance, but I think it’s around 20+ %. The aux tiller is very light when you try it by hand. 

    The vane is based on a 75mm central tube, which means that the movement of the steering ropes is quite short. This is why I have to fix them quite close to the aux rudder’s axle of rotation.


    Yes, no servo. 

    I used David Tyler’s plans for the vane part, you can find them in the forum. The aux rudder is about 30-40% of the area of the main rudder.

    Last modified: 05 Jun 2019 17:09 | Anonymous member
  • 05 Jun 2019 13:40
    Reply # 7556996 on 5070195
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Good work, Jami!
    For some reason, this didn’t surprise me.

    ·         I guess you just lock the main tiller after having used it to trim out most of the weather helm?

    ·         And the AUX-rudder, was that built similar to the one I sketched up, or did you make an entirely different design?

    ·         How much balance did you give the AUX-rudder?



    Last modified: 05 Jun 2019 14:05 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 05 Jun 2019 13:34
    Reply # 7556988 on 5070195

    Looks great, Jami!

    It seems like you have the wind vane directly driving the aux rudder without a trim tab or servo pendulum, is that correct? I would appreciate it if you would share any detailed drawings or photos that you have.

    The rainbow flag looks sharp, too!

    Thank you for sharing.


  • 05 Jun 2019 10:32
    Reply # 7556767 on 5070195

    The aux rudder is now in use with a detachable linking arm to the main rudder’s tiller and for using the win vane. The latter was made using David’s plans but with a bit larger vane.

    I haven’t made proper installations for the blocks yet, just tried the system a few times in a more prototypish way to see if it works. And oh my, does it! Works better than I imagined even ar this stage.

    A short video, here sailing on quite strong beam  reach. The system steers better than I do.

  • 10 Jan 2019 09:20
    Reply # 6992925 on 5070195


    If my vane is used to drive an aux rudder, the fairlead can be used, but the quadrant is ignored - that's part of the pendulum design. You simply mount the vane on a fixed platform anywhere on the stern, and then lead the lines via blocks to a tiller on the aux rudder. Obviously, the length of that tiller can be adjustable.

    Although, to consider the matter in another way, if you were to take my pendulum gear, and instead of mounting the servo carrier on that 45˚ power axis, you were to fix the servo carrier rigidly to the boat - then you would have an aux rudder gear. Not a very powerful one, because it would be small, but it would work for a small boat.

    Yes, I put a sheet of thin plastic on either side of the vane turret to save wear and tear.

    Last modified: 10 Jan 2019 13:42 | Anonymous member
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