Galion 22 conversion

  • 14 Jul 2018 20:36
    Reply # 6381457 on 6381160
    Anonymous wrote:

    The simplest place to spot the lift and drag angles is at the Windex. The lift of the sail will by definition have to be at 90° of the arrows pointing direction, while the drag by definition points the opposite direction of what the arrow does.

    Now, if we manage to point and sail the boat as closely as 30° from the apparent wind, then we can decompose the lift and drag  force vectors (Fl and Fd) into two sets of force components running along the ship’s CL, and at 90° to it (I cheat a little, disregarding the little leeway angle of the boat)

    The sail’s lift, Fl, will produce
    a boat driving force of Fl x sin30° = 0.5 Fl
    It will also produce
    a boat heeling force of Fl x cos 30° = 0.87 Fl

    The sail’s drag, Fd, will produce
    a boat braking force of Fd x cos 30° = 0.87Fd.
    It will also produce
    a boat heeling force of Fd x sin 30° = 0.5 Fd.

    Only if the lift is sufficiently stronger, (say 3 or 4 times) than the drag, will this result in the boat going forward.

    If I get my sums right, and I guess that
    the sail’s lift/drag = 3.0, then..

    The resulting net driving force will be
    0.21 Fl  -  that is only 21% of the lift,

    and the total heeling force will be
    1.04 Fl  -  that is 104% of the sail’s lift.

    It’s a wonder we can sail to windward at all...



    Thank you Arne, I am about to sail from NW Spain, bound for England. A certain amount of the distance is likely to be to windward. I will look at my burgee with new eyes. (I had a windex, but it jumped off the mast).

    Asmat

  • 14 Jul 2018 17:02
    Reply # 6381162 on 6381157
    Anonymous member (Administrator)
    Robert wrote:
    Anonymous wrote:

    Hardly any boat have so neutral helm that one can sail with the tiller free. One factor that prevents this is that more than half of modern boats are not directionally stable. You can check the latter this way:

    ·         On a calm day, motor at full speed in a straight line.

    ·         Then, stop the engine ( the best would be if it was swung up) and push the tiller moderately over to start a swing.

    ·         Take your hands off the tiller and see what happens.

    ·         If the boat’s swing gradually stops and the boat takes a straight course, then she is course stable.

    ·         If the boat keeps turning or even goes into a sharper and sharper turn, then it is directionally unstable. Such a boat will need a sort of tiller lock even if you manage to get the CE to CLR distance right.

    Hi Arne--I'm curious what the folkboat does in this test?

    Ingeborg, an almost FB,  certainly straightens out the course after step 3 in the test. When tacking her, one must hold the tiller over or she stops the rotation. Quite contrary with my friend's Athena 34: Push the tiller over to initiate tacking and then she takes over. At the end of the tacking we must give contra-rudder to fix her on the new course.

    Arne


    Last modified: 14 Jul 2018 18:39 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 14 Jul 2018 16:57
    Reply # 6381160 on 6381023
    Anonymous member (Administrator)
    Asmat wrote:
     The fact remains that boats with cambered sails heel more than those with flat ones. They are also less close - winded, but I concede that cambered sails are more powerful and make better progress to windward.

    I am not so sure about that. My first, flat junksail on my Albin Viggen, Malena, did never let me sail as closely to the wind as later cambered sails. Even when the wind was strong enough to be on the edge of needing a reef, we still pointed lower, although the performance gap was smaller in strong winds than in  light wind-conditions.

    My conclusion was therefore that the flat sail could never produce as high lift-to-drag ratio as the cambered sails. That is still my view. 

    Arne

    PS:

    The simplest place to spot the lift and drag angles is at the Windex. The lift of the sail will by definition have to be at 90° of the arrow's pointing direction, while the drag by definition points the opposite direction of what the arrow does.

    Now, if we manage to point and sail the boat as closely as 30° from the apparent wind, then we can decompose the lift and drag  force vectors (Fl and Fd) into two sets of force components running along the ship’s CL, and at 90° to it (I cheat a little, disregarding the little leeway angle of the boat)

    The sail’s lift, Fl, will produce
    a boat driving force of Fl x sin30° = 0.5 Fl
    It will also produce
    a boat heeling force of Fl x cos 30° = 0.87 Fl

    The sail’s drag, Fd, will produce
    a boat braking force of Fd x cos 30° = 0.87Fd.
    It will also produce
    a boat heeling force of Fd x sin 30° = 0.5 Fd.

    Only if the lift is sufficiently stronger, (say 3 or 4 times) than the drag, will this result in the boat going forward.

    If I get my sums right, and I guess that
    the sail’s lift/drag = 3.0, then..

    The resulting net driving force will be
    0.21 Fl  -  that is only 21% of the lift,

    and the total heeling force will be
    1.04 Fl  -  that is 104% of the sail’s lift.

    It’s a wonder we can sail to windward at all...



    Last modified: 14 Jul 2018 23:25 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 14 Jul 2018 16:39
    Reply # 6381157 on 6379868
    Deleted user
    Anonymous wrote:

    Hardly any boat have so neutral helm that one can sail with the tiller free. One factor that prevents this is that more than half of modern boats are not directionally stable. You can check the latter this way:

    ·         On a calm day, motor at full speed in a straight line.

    ·         Then, stop the engine ( the best would be if it was swung up) and push the tiller moderately over to start a swing.

    ·         Take your hands off the tiller and see what happens.

    ·         If the boat’s swing gradually stops and the boat takes a straight course, then she is course stable.

    ·         If the boat keeps turning or even goes into a sharper and sharper turn, then it is directionally unstable. Such a boat will need a sort of tiller lock even if you manage to get the CE to CLR distance right.

    Hi Arne--I'm curious what the folkboat does in this test?
  • 14 Jul 2018 13:37
    Reply # 6381023 on 6380916
       when sailing fully close-hauled, the main contributor to heeling the boat is the lift, not the drag. Surprise, surprise..
    I am surprised. The fact remains that boats with cambered sails heel more than those with flat ones. They are also less close - winded, but I concede that cambered sails are more powerful and make better progress to windward.
  • 14 Jul 2018 11:34
    Reply # 6380956 on 5070195
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Jami,

    about weather helm.
    All the boats I have had, except Johanna would round up into the wind if I just let the tiller go. Johanna had a lee helm in light winds when close-hauled. As the wind picked up, the steering went neutral, and then she picked up weather helm as the others.

    The question is if the weather helm, rudder angle-wise, is acceptable or not. For normal upwind sailing, the rudder angle should be less than 5°, better 2°. If you generally need 5-10° rudder, you may have a problem. I notice that the stern of that Gallion 22 is fairly wide, which may suggest that she will develop more weather helm as heel passes 15° (.. as Asmat mentions below..). In that case, dropping a panel may do the trick.

    If you generally feel that you are sailing with the brakes on (big rudder angle), then, and only then would I suggest building a new, bigger rudder and fit it on the transom. I would in that case keep the original rudder, and lock it in central position to act as a course-stabilising skeg, and spare rudder.

    About magazine testimonials.
    Boating journalists hardly ever butch a boat. Their magazines depend on advertising  -  and the rule is: 

    Don’t bite the hand which feeds you.”

    Arne

    PS: I hope you can do that course stability check I described above.

     


    Last modified: 14 Jul 2018 11:34 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 14 Jul 2018 10:56
    Reply # 6380916 on 6380882
    Anonymous member (Administrator)
    Anonymous wrote:

    In "Cruising Yachts: Design and Performance", Harrison Butler says that you can disregard the C of E and the CLR. What matters for a balanced helm is hull shape. A boat designed for good windward performance, with a lean bow and heavy quarters, will have more buoyancy at the stern when heeled, than at the bow. This will cause her to gripe.

    Unfortunately, one disadvantage of a cambered sail is that as lift is increased, so is drag. More heeling is the result.

    Jami, congratulations on your sail. I am impressed by what you have achieved.

    Cheers, Asmat


    That disadvantage, Asmat,

    can easily be be put right by dropping a panel. I find that my boats are faster to windward with one or two panels down, if there is wind enough.

    Btw, when sailing fully close-hauled, the main contributor to heeling the boat is the lift, not the drag. Surprise, surprise...

    Arne


    Last modified: 14 Jul 2018 10:58 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 14 Jul 2018 08:59
    Reply # 6380882 on 5070195

    In "Cruising Yachts: Design and Performance", Harrison Butler says that you can disregard the C of E and the CLR. What matters for a balanced helm is hull shape. A boat designed for good windward performance, with a lean bow and heavy quarters, will have more buoyancy at the stern when heeled, than at the bow. This will cause her to gripe.

    Unfortunately, one disadvantage of a cambered sail is that as lift is increased, so is drag. More heeling is the result.

    Jami, congratulations on your sail. I am impressed by what you have achieved.

    Cheers, Asmat

    Last modified: 14 Jul 2018 09:04 | Anonymous member
  • 14 Jul 2018 06:06
    Reply # 6380835 on 5070195
    David, I did sew the sail according to your advice on the broadseaming and tucks. It's nice to hear that the job seems ok to your eye!

    Arne, the boat seemed to have generous weather helm with the BR also. This surprised me, because the Galion was described as a very well balanced boat in all the testimonials I found.

    A tiller lock would probably be of some use, but then again the boat likes to climb to the wind very eagerly, if I keep the tiller locked by hand. 

    It could also be possible, that the boat is so directionally unstable, that I tend to take this as weather helm issue? 

    To me excessive weather helm means the boat's tendency to turn to the wind very easily, with need to control the course all the time. At times the boat feels almost like a dinghy in this respect.

    Strange.

    The tiller forces don't seem too big, I think the rudder balance is ok as well as the ability to steer, even in the following wind and seas (although the boat starts to behave aggressively, as I wrote in an earlier post. Fortunately I don't like sailing ddw anyway :) )

    I am planning to build a wind vane with David's plans, and a better balance/stability would probably make the system more stable as well?

    Edit: Arne, no - I haven't shortened the top batten/s or the yard. I think the angle of the picture does a trick to the eyes.

    Edit #2: The usntability is weird, because the Joe 17 I converted last year was basically a large dinghy, but I was able to put a simple sheet to tiller steering system and the course stayed for hours even in following wind.

    Last modified: 14 Jul 2018 07:28 | Anonymous member
  • 13 Jul 2018 20:06
    Reply # 6380485 on 5070195
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Just like David,

    I too had a second look at the Gallion 22 design, and I too think that the rudder looks OK. I therefore repeat my suggestion of shifting the sail forward. If that move robs the sail’s performance, then it can just be moved back again.

    Btw. have you shortened the top batten and yard?

    Arne


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