Help with a Sailplan for a wooden classic / Francis Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14

  • 06 Feb 2017 09:33
    Reply # 4593586 on 4497913
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Linda

    Mast dimensions first:
    On my 750kg
    Frøken Sørensen I used a 100mm x 4mm x 6m tube for lower mast. I could not see any sign of stress on it during sailing. Your boat, although just as heavy, and with ballast in it, has much narrower beam, so I think the 100 x 3mm tube which David suggests, will be fine. That will bring the weight of a 6m tube down from around 27.7 kg (110 x 5mm) to only around 15.4kg. Since the mast’s total length will only be a little over 7m (tallest rig), you can choose to use a 5m long tube for lower mast, if you can get that.

    Mast position:
    What is it that prevents you from stepping the mast through the fore deck? To my eyes that should be structurally simpler. When considering weight (long-ship trim) and inertia (pitching), it is the position of the mast’s CG which counts. On a raking mast, the CG of the mast will only be a tiny bit aft of the CG of a vertical mast, and the weight of the complete sail, battens, yard and all, will not have moved at all.

    I have mailed the QCAD drawing over to Paul to let him have a go on it. Paul has always been a good QCAD support when I get stuck.

    Arne


    Last modified: 06 Feb 2017 09:34 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 06 Feb 2017 02:18
    Reply # 4593083 on 4497913

    Hello Hello,

    While I was sleeping / painting Shoestring's decks you worked hard on it.  I am really grateful. Thank you, thank you !!!

    It is getting exciting and daunting but it is great to see the rig and the boat hull - even if it is 'not working' so to speak. Waiting to hear what the rake on Arne's proposal will achieve. 

    Thanks Arne for all the drawings - it looks beautiful already. Imagine once she starts actually sailing. Paul offered to drop the Pete's sail plan into CAD so if you could send me your 'template' he can work on it. Thanks. 

    I am getting some notion of the challenges I presented you with.  Sorry.

    Am here with PJR studying it from page 90 onward to make  more  sense of it all. Sure Roger and I will discuss your comments over dinner tonight. Pete is away sailing - will update him on the developments once he is back (end of the week).

    One thing seem to be clear to me:  It would be better  not to have a heavy (wooden) mast.  I like the idea of a wooden boat - wooden mast. Pete offered to help to make it, so I took him up on this, thinking it would be  'fun' too! I am happy to go with a composite mast. We could still have some 'fun' building a wooden top.

    What would be the optimum mast diameter x thickness? Francis  might go offshore one day (not sure if with me in it!) so I'd like it to be extra strong. 

    I read Arne's article on masts and calculations. I will work it out but would like your expert view on this.  

    Paul suggested 110 diameter x 5mm.  

    David said 100 diameter x 3mm.

    Why don't I want to move the mast forward?

    I understand that some structural deck reinforcement in forepeak would be required as well as adding a mast step. At this point there is no keel but just boat planks & 'ribs'. So the reinforcement would require to have a vertical 'leg' supporting the deck. This 'leg' would come right in a middle of a bunk, which is not ideal. 

    I am not sure if this substantial reinforcement is required for a lighter mast I am now going to put in. If I can get away with making a heavy reinforcement internally then I don't mind so much where the mast is going to go. 

    Any views on this reinforcement issue? 

    I am checking with Murray (Francis's boat builder) to see what he thinks - re reinforcement. The boat is still in his yard. Its  transport is taking longer than expected....

    Much appreciate all your help. 

    Ahoy from  stillwaters of Stillwater !

    Linda

  • 05 Feb 2017 20:10
    Reply # 4592563 on 4592307
    Arne Kverneland wrote:

    After having balanced the underwater hull on a ruler to find the CLR, it appears to me that the sail with the mast through the original position, will have very little lead, so the boat will have to sail on the rudder.

    One thing is for sure:
    There is no way I can get sufficient lead with the mast in the Bermuda mast position.

    How about some forward rake, Arne? This, combined with one of your higher AR sails, might permit the mast to be in the original position.

    I got 8% lead with the weaverbird sail, because the CE is further forward than with your sails, due to the short yard, and because high AR naturally puts the CE further forward. I added in one third of the rudder area, so the CLR that I've used may be a little further aft than on your drawings. Still, even with this sail, 2˚ forward rake would probably be a good idea.

  • 05 Feb 2017 19:17
    Reply # 4592512 on 4497913
    Thanks for your explanation, David.  I can see all this when it is pointed out to me in words of one syllable. 

    Linda - why don't you want to move the mast to its logical position as you originally planned?


  • 05 Feb 2017 15:26
    Reply # 4592307 on 4497913
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Now I had a go on Linda’s boat:
    I started with tracing the photo of the hull and Pete’s suggested rig, the best I could, into my QCAD program. Distorted photo probably leads to some inaccuracy.

    After having balanced the underwater hull on a ruler to find the CLR, it appears to me that the sail with the mast through the original position, will have very little lead, so the boat will have to sail on the rudder.

    I then tried a couple of my standard rigs, as the photos below shows. As can be seen, I have moved the mast to the fore-deck. Frankly, I still think the lead seems to be on the low side, so I would have liked to move the whole rig, mast and all, another 22cm forward.

    Whether one should go for the tall rig or the low one, depends of how light you are able to build the mast. If the mast stays below 2.5 – 3% of the boat’s displacement (19-22kg), I would choose the tallest rig. That should give a SA/disp = 19.9.

    One thing is for sure:
    There is no way I can get sufficient lead with the mast in the Bermuda mast position.

    If any of you have CAD and wants to try your hands on it, just drop me a line and I’ll send the file to you in the .dxf format. I have used English terms on the layers to make it easier for you.

    Arne

     


    Last modified: 05 Feb 2017 15:30 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 05 Feb 2017 08:36
    Reply # 4592021 on 4497913

    The head of the sail that I drew is 2.14m and the top batten is 2.57m long. Yes, the lower four panels can have the same 3D camber built in, maybe 8%, decreasing in the upper two panels.

    I'm talking about WP_20170203_17_41_06_Pro.jpg which is the only other rig I'm aware of. It's a picture rather than a drawing, so I can't make a CAD drawing without being given the dimensions. My objections to it (without being able to be sure, because I don't know the dimensions) are:

    • The parallelogram panels seem to be of different widths. There is no good reason for doing this.
    • The luff lengths of the top two panels are too long. This makes the panel diagonals grow too short, resulting in excessive stagger. The luff length should either be as short as is practicable, as in PJR, or longer, as in Weaverbird's sail, to get the length of the diagonal correct.
    • The sail is set too low on the boat, and will give trouble during a strong wind gybe with the tack getting dangerously low due to the large balance.
    • The batten rise does not seem to be enough to get the diagonals of the lower panels correct.
    If I had to make a drawing, I would just try to identify the essence of what was intended, and draw something new. But there's no need for me to do that, because it would end up being one of Arne's standard designs.
  • 05 Feb 2017 04:39
    Reply # 4591850 on 4497913

    Hello David, 

    Having spent hours working out the scale of the drawing, based on the batten size you  gave 2.87m and on the mast length 8m we calculated yard to be  2.1m and top batten 2.6.

    I seem to recall you saying before that this sail plan would be suitable for a camber. Is this the case, since camber is my preference?

    Off we go to work on Roger's sails and battens! 

    Thanks!

    Linda 

  • 05 Feb 2017 03:42
    Reply # 4591836 on 4497913

    Hello David,

    Just got back from a gardening expedition and stopped off at the beach for a swim - bliss! 

    I looked at the PJR Fig 15.1 & 15.2. I still would like to have a last panel sheeted in when reefing. Would this be possible?

    Annie - great question, thanks. I was wondering about it too. 

    Thanks!

    Linda


  • 04 Feb 2017 23:25
    Reply # 4591606 on 4497913
    David, at a smaller size, such as Linda is talking about, there appear to be no fewer than 6 manufacturers of alloy flagpoles, so it might be possible to find one here in NZ.  But I completely agree that a hybrid is the obvious alternative.

    Just out of curiosity, what is it you don't like about the rig?  I'm never very good at assessing what's 'good' and what's 'bad' just at looking at a drawing and it would be enlightening if you'd explain it to me.  Ta.



  • 04 Feb 2017 08:00
    Reply # 4590725 on 4497913

    The top batten is rarely sheeted, and on most rigs, included this one, it cannot be sheeted. It would cause problems, and solve none. If it's blowing hard enough to need only one panel, the top batten is lashed down - see PJR fig 15.1 and fig 15.2

    Sorry, I'm not going to attempt to draw out the rig that you've made a model of, because a) I think it's not a very good rig, and b) I don't have enough information.

    In NZ, tapered aluminium tubes seem to be hard to come by, so a hybrid mast is going to be the easy option: 5 or 6m of 100mm diameter x 3mm wall, with a wooden topmast extending it to 8m.

       " ...there is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing as simply messing about in junk-rigged boats" 
                                                               - the Chinese Water Rat

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