New split rig for "China Girl"

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  • 14 Oct 2017 13:31
    Reply # 5313637 on 4293731
    Deleted user

    Hi Chris.

     Found the post. When I was making the new spigot for Stalemate I had a similar problem of fitting one tube inside another. I was lucky, however, and when I measured up, the tolerances gave me 0.5mm to play with. The method I was considering for increasing the internal diameter of the aluminium tube was using a hone.

    Draper 56246 51-177mm cyclone hone 

    on an extended bar.

    Regards

    Mark

  • 10 Oct 2017 23:13
    Reply # 5307693 on 5307228
    Claude L'Honnen wrote:
    Richard Brooksby wrote:Marchaj shows a *great* increase of lift from an elliptical sail for some upwind angles, especially with lower AR. [Aero-Hydrodynamics of Sailing, fig 2.140.]
    I am new to JRA and joined to get sound advices about my own project of conversion to junk rig. I then read the different posts to be personnaly "instructed".
    Welcome to the JRA! I hope your project is going well.

    However if my opinion may be useful, I would say  your reference to Aero-Hydrodynamics of Sailing, fig 2.140 seems irrelevant.

    The higher the AR, the higher the driving force of the sail; the lower the AR, the higher the drag coefficient as shown by this Drag of a sail diagram (probably coming from the very same book).

    Your diagram only says a sail has a better lift if rounded or elliptic.

    You'd better check before cutting the sail !

    Yes, the diagram you link is also from Marchaj, and is not many pages away.

    I was responding to the discussion in this thread about whether to bother with an elliptical sail, or whether to use the rectangular plan of Poppy or Amiina. So I am not sure why measurement of that difference would be irrelevant.

    Marchaj also discusses AR in great detail. But it is not always a choice. For my boat, extending the mast is probably unwise. It is not a very stiff boat. Instead I plan to increase my sail area (for light downwind) with a lower AR sail. Marchaj's tests show that an elliptical tip is even more effective for low AR.

    Also, the diagram you linked shows greater lift for a low AR gaff rig at apparent angles greater than 30°, so it is not as clear cut.

    I hope I have understood you correctly.

    I expect to be cutting several sails and sail parts, but this is not a thread about my sails. That's over here



  • 10 Oct 2017 19:28
    Reply # 5307228 on 5306962
    Deleted user
    Richard Brooksby wrote:Marchaj shows a *great* increase of lift from an elliptical sail for some upwind angles, especially with lower AR. [Aero-Hydrodynamics of Sailing, fig 2.140.]
    I am new to JRA and joined to get sound advices about my own project of conversion to junk rig. I then read the different posts to be personnaly "instructed".

    However if my opinion may be useful, I would say  your reference to Aero-Hydrodynamics of Sailing, fig 2.140 seems irrelevant.

    The higher the AR, the higher the driving force of the sail; the lower the AR, the higher the drag coefficient as shown by this Drag of a sail diagram (probably coming from the very same book).

    Your diagram only says a sail has a better lift if rounded or elliptic.

    You'd better check before cutting the sail !

  • 10 Oct 2017 16:54
    Reply # 5306962 on 4365050
    Arne Kverneland wrote:

    Chris proposed rig is looking good, for sure, but...

    frankly, if I were to make a split JR, I would aim for a planform very close to that of Slieve’s Poppy. It may not look as elegant as this elliptical planform, but the Poppy rig has three advantages:

    ·         Many identical panels makes the lofting and sewing job a lot easier.

    From my personal the point of view I suspect “a lot” is more like “a bit”.

    ·         A sail, which is wider higher up, adds sail area, and a generous sail area is very useful for downwind sailing, something we do a lot of the time.

    Again, for my plans, I'll be dramatically increasing total sail area, and am more interested in achieving a balance of performance downwind and up. Marchaj shows a *great* increase of lift from an elliptical sail for some upwind angles, especially with lower AR. [Aero-Hydrodynamics of Sailing, fig 2.140.]

    ·         The vertical leech prevents the sheetlets from getting caught by the batten ends or under the boom, when tacking or gybing.

    I think extending the batten ends, and if necessary running a line vertically between the ends, should take care of that, as long as the sheeting angle is OK.

    Boring arguments, maybe, but that is how I am wired:

    “Easy handling beats performance,
    and
     performance beats fancy looks”...

    Me again...

    Well, most of us are involved with junks for easy handling, but all comparisons must be quantitative. How *much* performance to trade against how *much* handling?

    I'd add something before all of these. Aren't we all here to have fun with our boats? To easily forgotten. Chris said he'll have fun making a more interesting sail, and I'm with him on that!

    Apologies for bizarre formatting. Impossible to fix on my phone with awful forum software.

    Last modified: 10 Oct 2017 17:30 | Anonymous member
  • 10 Oct 2017 16:39
    Reply # 5306948 on 4301721
    Slieve McGalliard wrote:

    "

    On Amiina's latest rig the sails are placed on the centre line of the battens and not to the outside or inside so that a light sheetlet can be attached to the leech of the jib and the luff of the main panel and have equal tension on both tacks. We also added short batten pockets to the centre line of each jib to experiment with short bendy battens to help pull in the centre of the leech and have played around with this setup. 

    You can see these refinements in my video Tammy, Emmelène. and Amiina
    I had a conversation with Edward about these sheetlets but I didn't fully appreciate what they were for until now.

    Have you thought of a batten in the middle of leech, a bit like a shirt collar stiffener? It might be that it has to be so stiff that it inhibits furling though.



  • 10 Oct 2017 12:38
    Reply # 5306544 on 4293731

    I'm afraid I missed this thread, but have just been directed to it by Chris Galliene after he was mentioned in a reply to my post The Spitfire junk.

    I'll link that here out of interest and start reading through the whole thing. I'm certainly considering splits by the way, along with everything else.

  • 21 Nov 2016 12:16
    Reply # 4403405 on 4403337
    Deleted user
    David Tyler wrote:

    Chris, I know you already have an extension tube, but could I just detail the method I used to extend Tystie' s mast? I think I've mentioned it before, but can't remember when or where.

    David, thanks for that (don't recall seeing it before). I considered a similar solution during the 'back of fag packet' stage, but an extension tube significantly larger that the one I chose would have required enlarging the hole through the deck and replacing the (stainless steel) reinforcement around it. I did not want to go down that route, so I shall attempt to work with the tube I have.

    Chris


  • 21 Nov 2016 11:36
    Reply # 4403346 on 4403274
    Chris Gallienne wrote:

    I shall attempt to sand down the bottom of the mast by the required 0.3mm (plus a bit?) and join the sections using slow-cure epoxy as a lubricant/adhesive.

    Chris

    I managed to do this, back in my National 12 dinghy racing days, to add a 1 3/4in diameter topmast to a 2in x 1/8in wall mast tube. I think you're going to find it very hard work on a 5 1/2in mast.
  • 21 Nov 2016 11:18
    Reply # 4403337 on 4293731

    Chris, I know you already have an extension tube, but could I just detail the method I used to extend Tystie' s mast? I think I've mentioned it before, but can't remember when or where.

    1. The mast is 220mm/ 8 5/8in diameter. I couldn't find a tube (close to where I was, in Vancouver) that would be a close fit.
    2. I bought an extension tube 8ft long and 10in diameter, with 1/4in wall, so the gap between the two was about 11mm.
    3. I installed a plug of plywood 3ft down in the extension tube, using Sikaflex  to hold it and seal it. Through this plug, I installed a 32mm tube to act as a wiring conduit. It extended to the top of the extension tube so that it would engage with the existing 25mm tube conduit in the mast.
    4. I turned the extension tube upside down and poured in a mix of polyurethane foam, to make the plug strong and load-bearing.
    5. I stepped the extension tube in the boat, using the existing wedges, cut down, at the heel, and a pour of casting polyurethane at the deck partners.
    6. I had the mast craned into the extension tube, engaging the two conduit tubes together at the same time, and secured the mast centrally in the extension tube with three small wedges.
    7. I poured a small amount of casting polyurethane into the 11mm x 3ft gap and let it set, so that the bottom of the mast would then be sealed against further pours going up inside the mast.
    8. Then I completed the pour in small batches to fill the gap between mast and extension tube, monitoring for excessive heat build-up (there was none).
    This turned out to be a sound and successful method of mast extension, as evidenced by the subsequent passage that I made from Canada to New Zealand.
    Last modified: 21 Nov 2016 11:25 | Anonymous member
  • 21 Nov 2016 09:49
    Reply # 4403274 on 4293731
    Deleted user

    OK, armed with inside and outside joint calipers and a digital vernier, I have tried accurately to measure the mast and extension tube. I measured the ID of the extension tube at 3 points roughly 60 degrees apart at each end. The mast I measured in two orthogonal places at 3 positions along the four-foot section which has to go into the extension. Here are the results in terms of mean and standard deviation for each set of measurements:

        Mast    Ext
    Mean 139.82 139.52
    Std. Dev. 0.041 0.534

    This is interesting. The variability in the freshly-milled extension tube was quite high compared to that of the Needlespar mast, which has been knocking around in China Girl for the best part of 30 years, and was near-zero. I knew that Needlepar roll the taper into the top sections of their masts, and roll the joints of the three sections. Either they are buying in tube with much better tolerances than mine, or they're rolling the whole mast to get it dead straight.

    The upshot is, not only was I using my insert to 'straighten' the cross-section of the extension tube, but apparently to increase its mean diameter by some 0.3mm! No wonder it took a lot of pressure to insert it!

    I shall attempt to sand down the bottom of the mast by the required 0.3mm (plus a bit?) and join the sections using slow-cure epoxy as a lubricant/adhesive.

    Chris


    Edit: The site linked by Phil below gives tolerances only for outside diameters of round tube. The tolerances for ID are probably wider. Nevertheless, the variability in the ID for my tube are within those OD tolerances, so the tube I've bought seems to be quite acceptable in those terms.

    Last modified: 21 Nov 2016 10:23 | Deleted user
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