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Redwing

  • 15 Nov 2012 02:07
    Quote
    Reply # 1137867 on 1137540
    Deleted user
    Roy Denton wrote:Take a look "here"  on the use of butyl tape.  I intend to use this to rebed my deck fittings in due course. 
    My goodness, that is a page bookmarked!
    (gone to source butyl tape..)
    Another gem from JRA forum. 
    Thanks Roy.
  • 15 Nov 2012 01:20
    Quote
    Reply # 1137756 on 1137508
    Anonymous member
    Annie Hill wrote:Er - I didn't think a junk mast had a track!  To be serious, one of the 'old-fashioned' sealers, if any still exist that usually purported to stick but didn't would work.  I might be inclined to fit a spongy rubber gasket, myself.  With such a big surface and such a weight on top, it should work.  You could even contact-glue it to the deck so that you wouldn't get any leak at that level anyway.

    I have heard, but never tried it, that a length of thin piano wire (or guitar string?), each end wrapped around a stick, makes an effective saw for cutting through very thin, flexible glue joints.

    I like the idea of a gasket that way all I'd need is a bit of sealant around the hold down bolts. The commandos during WW2 found piano wire very effective, it would work well. Thanks for the idea Annie.
  • 14 Nov 2012 20:55
    Quote
    Reply # 1137576 on 644008
    Deleted user
    My daughter and her builder (well, carpenter) husband created a mast coat for Shui Jen (based in the Alps) using Butyl tape, available from any builders merchant. A quick wraparound - job done. Not pretty, but it seems to work.
  • 14 Nov 2012 20:02
    Quote
    Reply # 1137540 on 644008
    Deleted user
    Take a look "here"  on the use of butyl tape.  I intend to use this to rebed my deck fittings in due course.  As it is not wet applied it should be more controllable, and as it doesn't set it should be easier to prise apart later.  Look on page 2 near the bottom, where a 29 year old butyl tape bedding is being prised up.  I have sourced a roll of the tape from a caravan suppliers, so without the chandlery mark up.
  • 14 Nov 2012 19:11
    Quote
    Reply # 1137508 on 644008
    Anonymous member
    Er - I didn't think a junk mast had a track!  To be serious, one of the 'old-fashioned' sealers, if any still exist that usually purported to stick but didn't would work.  I might be inclined to fit a spongy rubber gasket, myself.  With such a big surface and such a weight on top, it should work.  You could even contact-glue it to the deck so that you wouldn't get any leak at that level anyway.

    I have heard, but never tried it, that a length of thin piano wire (or guitar string?), each end wrapped around a stick, makes an effective saw for cutting through very thin, flexible glue joints.
  • 14 Nov 2012 10:22
    Quote
    Reply # 1137185 on 644008
    Anonymous member
    As you know my mast collar will be glued to the mast once the mast is standing. I want to seal the collar the seal to the deck but I want to be able to pull my mast out at some time in the future. What is a good waterproof sealant I could use that is capable of being pulled apart down the track?
  • 14 Nov 2012 10:17
    Quote
    Reply # 1137178 on 1137170
    Anonymous member
    Annie Hill wrote:When my engine (Bukh 10) is really, really cold and doesn't want to start, I decompress it and then the starter motor manages.  My engine battery is 80-amp hour.  That might work for you.

    Many moons ago - more than I like to think on - we were sailing along the S Coast of Ireland in a capful of wind, I, pumping like a madman while the water poured in through the garboard seam.  Finally we got to anchor and my skipper dived over the side with some ready-mixed underwater epoxy in hand.  This was in water of less, I'm sure than 15 degrees C.  He pushed the epoxy into the garboard seams.  The leak stopped and she never leaked again as long as we owned her.  And this was a boat with RIGGING!  I'd definitely give it a try!

    (PS: that wasn't really a shout, more super-emphasis!)
    Annie I am thinking of doing that as a temporary fix till I can slip her and do it properly.
  • 14 Nov 2012 10:14
    Quote
    Reply # 1137177 on 1137172
    Anonymous member
    Arne Kverneland wrote:
    Gary Pick wrote:The engine works. To hand crank it you have to spin it quite fast and have the throttle just so. To electric start I need a bigger battery, at least a 120 amphour.

    Gary, are you sure your present battery is of the start (and not the consumption) type? The start battery has lower internal resistance so the voltage drops much less at high currents.

    Would it be possible to measure the voltage of the battery with the start-motor running? Bringing an ordinary car battery and jump-connecting that to the present battery should also give some answers. To me it sounds as if 120Ah is a bit over the top. The fact that you manage to start your diesel by hand, indicates moderate demands on a start-motor.

    Cheers, Arne

    PS: What is the charging voltage with te engine running? I guess it should be over 14.2V


    I just got the receipt out but I can't read the brand name. All I can tell you is it's a 22f-970FD. I will be back on the boat probably Friday night so I will have a close look. I have an electrician friend who's going to help me sort it out.
    I know that to start it by hand I have to really crank it.
  • 14 Nov 2012 09:56
    Quote
    Reply # 1137172 on 1136912
    Anonymous member (Administrator)
    Gary Pick wrote:The engine works. To hand crank it you have to spin it quite fast and have the throttle just so. To electric start I need a bigger battery, at least a 120 amphour.

    Gary, are you sure your present battery is of the start (and not the consumption) type? The start battery has lower internal resistance so the voltage drops much less at high currents.

    Would it be possible to measure the voltage of the battery with the start-motor running? Bringing an ordinary car battery and jump-connecting that to the present battery should also give some answers. To me it sounds as if 120Ah is a bit over the top. The fact that you manage to start your diesel by hand, indicates moderate demands on a start-motor.

    Cheers, Arne

    PS: What is the charging voltage with te engine running? I guess it should be over 14.2V
  • 14 Nov 2012 09:48
    Quote
    Reply # 1137170 on 644008
    Anonymous member
    When my engine (Bukh 10) is really, really cold and doesn't want to start, I decompress it and then the starter motor manages.  My engine battery is 80-amp hour.  That might work for you.

    Many moons ago - more than I like to think on - we were sailing along the S Coast of Ireland in a capful of wind, I, pumping like a madman while the water poured in through the garboard seam.  Finally we got to anchor and my skipper dived over the side with some ready-mixed underwater epoxy in hand.  This was in water of less, I'm sure than 15 degrees C.  He pushed the epoxy into the garboard seams.  The leak stopped and she never leaked again as long as we owned her.  And this was a boat with RIGGING!  I'd definitely give it a try!

    (PS: that wasn't really a shout, more super-emphasis!)
       " ...there is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing as simply messing about in junk-rigged boats" 
                                                               - the Chinese Water Rat

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