Mark,
I have sailed the Maxi 95, partly as a racing crew and partly as a skipper, from Iceland to Norway. The helm steering worked well and the rudder was efficient, so I see nothing wrong with replacing it with a new wheel system with the same gearing. The Maxi also obeyed the rudder very well for tight harbour manoeuvres, both forward and astern. I felt like an expert in her from day one. One thing we seriously liked, was the folding table in front of the wheel. Not only was it fine for dining in the cockpit, but it also let one brace oneself against it in a seaway. Without it, the cockpit will be so wide that one might be tossed around.

If you plan to get in some sailing time, this summer, I must warn against starting too many projects at a time. Norwegian summers are not that long, you know...

Good luck!

Arne

I am going to jump on this topic with a related question.  The old Teleflex steering on my Maxi conversion was well past its best, so has been thrown out and I am pondering a replacement.  A direct tiller replacement is not really possible with the centre cockpit and rudder angle, unless I try and replace the whole rudder.

The easiest solution would be to replace like with like, but it is a known weak spot on the Maxis, and has over three turns lock to lock, which I would imagine (I did not sail the boat with the bermudan rig) means that there is constant movement of the wheel with the wind abaft the beam.  Replacing it with kit from Edson or Lewmar is also possible, but will be pretty pricey, although the existing table support/wheel mounting will save the price of the pedestal itself.  

I had wondered about using a vertical tiller or whip staff system, linked to the rudder with modern no stretch lines, using a quadrant at each end.  By a bizarrely fortunate set of circumstances, the lines could run cleanly, requiring just two blocks each side. My thinking is that this will give the advantages of the tiller (for steering, rather than simplicity) without requiring compromises.  Any thoughts, or suggestions for the practicalities?

Scott Dufour wrote:

Next question:

Is there any reason I shouldn't make the rudder tube out of white 2" PVC pipe?   I was thinking of going with preformed fiberglass tube, but that's quite a bit more pricey.

Actually - it's tough to find good info about using this kind of pipe on marine applications.  What's the general consensus about incorporating it into various applications, fiberglassed  and epoxied in to various places?  I've used in successfully in smaller boats, but they are all trailer sailors and don't spend all that much time on the water. 

No, do not make rudder tube out of cheap stuff. there are a lot of very strong forces working on a rudder on our boats we buy in grp handrail which is about 2-inch pipe very strong, we then rub down the outside of the tube to give it a good key we then make a four sided box leaving one side off. so we have a U shape we fill this with epoxy (thickened with silica and T Cell. lay the pipe in leave some overhang for shaping put the top of U shape on this now is a very strong assembly and being square will epoxy into the boat and can be easily braced with a bulkhead etc going right up to deck height

for bearings, you can form some epoxy in a jug, let it set and then with a large pipe hole cutter cut out a circle to fit the tube and then with a smaller cutter a hole to fit your shaft epoxy into tube jobs done

I have tiller steering for the boat in the workshop at the moment I like the feel of a tiller corrections are instant and you can go hard over so much quicker. lashing the helm is easy and any self-steering is cheaper  and easier to fit

Hi Scott,

I have used high pressure PVC pipe(schedule 20 if I remember correctly) for several applications on various boats. I find that in an extreme structural situation such as a rudder tube then scuff up the outside of the tube and fiberglass reinforce it  as you suggest. Be aware that PVC is slightly hydrophilic and will expand over time when immersed in water. I would recommend using a separate bearing top and bottom of non hydrophilic material to prevent this causing a problem with binding on the rudder shaft.

David.

Yes, that sounds fine. If the PVC tube is of a suitable size, you might get away without additional bearings. If you use copper tube as the former, you get antifouling properties, which is useful, though of course you might want to put HDPE or UHMWPE bearings at top and bottom of the tube.