Wheel to Tiller conversion concerns

  • 01 May 2017 16:34
    Reply # 4793798 on 4286270
    Deleted user

    Thank you, David.

    What do you think:  1/4" wall thickness made of 10 oz layers? 

  • 01 May 2017 16:26
    Reply # 4793791 on 4286270

    No. It isn't strong enough (unless you have a source of very thick-walled tube), and wouldn't bond into the boat very securely. But by all means use PVC tube as a former to make your own GRP tube using glass cloth and resin. That would work. I use this method to make seatubes on thin-walled copper plumbing tube.

  • 01 May 2017 14:16
    Reply # 4793589 on 4286270
    Deleted user

    Next question:

    Is there any reason I shouldn't make the rudder tube out of white 2" PVC pipe?   I was thinking of going with preformed fiberglass tube, but that's quite a bit more pricey.

    Actually - it's tough to find good info about using this kind of pipe on marine applications.  What's the general consensus about incorporating it into various applications, fiberglassed  and epoxied in to various places?  I've used in successfully in smaller boats, but they are all trailer sailors and don't spend all that much time on the water. 

  • 28 Apr 2017 13:32
    Reply # 4789722 on 4286270
    Deleted user

    Perfect, excellent, and most good.  All the answers that I like.

    So many complications go into adding a wheel.  I really don't understand some of the things that are done on production boats. 

     

  • 28 Apr 2017 10:27
    Reply # 4789586 on 4286270

    It's a no-brainer. Where the rudder shaft must be accessible below decks to fit a quadrant for wheel steering, a shaft seal of some kind is necessary. Where the rudder shaft passes right through to emerge above decks, the tube can be continuous and a shaft seal is not necessary - and a servo pendulum or trim tab vane gear works much better as a result.

  • 28 Apr 2017 08:50
    Reply # 4789469 on 4286270
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    I am no expert on this, but on the (quite a few) boats I have seen with ‘inboard’ rudders and tiller steering, the rudder shaft is run through a continuous tube, solidly fitted to the boat. No stuffing box anywhere.

    Arne


  • 28 Apr 2017 08:50
    Reply # 4789468 on 4286270
    I don't like holes, either, and one thing that made Fantail's spade rudder more acceptable was the fact that there was no stuffing box to worry about.  A bearing at the bottom of the tube and a fitting at the top, where the rudder stock came out through the lazarette.  KISS also comes in here.
  • 27 Apr 2017 20:45
    Reply # 4787644 on 4286270
    Deleted user

    Okay - so I've pulled everything related to the old steering system out of the boat except the steering quadrant - which looks press fit in with a key and I can probably get off easy enough with a modified gear puller.

    Question is: do I fabricate a new rudder tube that extends all the from from the hull to above the cockpit sole, and consequently above the waterline, thereby eliminating the rudder post stuffing box and one more hole in my boat?  Or do I simply extend the existing rudder stock creating another opening, now in the cockpit sole, in need of a watertight seal?

    As I write that out the answer seems obvious... but that may be because I'm unfairly biased against holes in my boat.

    Last modified: 27 Apr 2017 20:53 | Deleted user
  • 20 Oct 2016 14:58
    Reply # 4315011 on 4286270
    Deleted user

    Well, I've decided.  The wheel is going.  It's just so easy to get under the cockpit right now with everything gutted.  Photos to follow...

  • 19 Oct 2016 10:44
    Reply # 4312875 on 4286270

    This is a "no brainer", IMHO.

    A tiller is much better for feel, for speed of applying helm when manoeuvring at close quarters ,for KISS, for taking up less room in the cockpit when entertaining, for use with servo pendulums and trim tabs. 

    A wheel becomes necessary when a tiller doesn't provide enough leverage, and can't be lengthened. That point is often reached at a LWL between 35ft and 40ft. It might be reached in a smaller boat if, for example, it has a very wide unbalanced rudder, or the crew has little arm strength, but I doubt very much if that's the case here. If the boat were mine, you'd hear a resounding splash, early on in the refitting process - unless there was any secondhand value in the pedestal and wheel.

       " ...there is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing as simply messing about in junk-rigged boats" 
                                                               - the Chinese Water Rat

                                                              Site contents © the Junk Rig Association and/or individual authors

Powered by Wild Apricot Membership Software