Orion, International Folkboat.

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  • 12 Sep 2018 15:11
    Reply # 6665994 on 6141347
    I took the excess slack out of the batten parrels and the sail is now very close to the mast on the starboard tack. Furthermore I moved the sheet point on the pushpin 5 cm further to the centerline.  All in all, a big improvement. Hard to tell if one tack is better than the other. Another lesson learned...

    It's great fun to be able to fiddle with the rig. 

    Last modified: 12 Sep 2018 15:15 | Anonymous member
  • 02 Sep 2018 11:43
    Reply # 6650122 on 6141347

    Jeps Arne. 

    Good advice on the batten parrels. They are (have become..) quite slack. I'll tighten them up first and see if that makes a difference. 

    The sail is seized taut along the battens now. So room for possible improvement there. 

    The sheet point is on the push pit. Offset ca. 12 cm to port. 

    Last modified: 02 Sep 2018 11:48 | Anonymous member
  • 02 Sep 2018 11:25
    Reply # 6650104 on 6141347
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Sounds good, Frederik.

    There is one factor which affects the tacking symmetry a lot:
    The sheet-point's sideways offset. Apart from this, one must ensure that the batten parrels are not slack, as slack parrels make the sail appear to be sheeted more in on the mast-to-weather tack.

    Increasing the camber. 
    On my Ingeborg I also measured the initial camber/chord to 7%. Since I had tied the sail fairly taut along the battens, I decided to ease that tension with about 4cm. After that, the camber was found to be 8%, which was what I initially aimed for.

    I don't know how you have tied the sail to the battens, and I don't know what camber the Tuchwerkstatt cut the sail, but in case you have tied it taut along the battens, you may as well correct it and get a bit more drive. The price to pay is a bit more wrinkles along the battens.


  • 02 Sep 2018 09:17
    Reply # 6650079 on 6141347
    Just got back from a four day trip with Orion in the southern part of Denmark.

    Orion rolls happily along, doing 5-6 knots under 4 panels in 20 knot winds from astern still quite easy on the helm.

    Finally got to measure the camber in the sail. 37 cm camber with cord 462 cm. Battens 4 cm. Camber of 7% if my calculations are right. That is in the bottom 4 panels. Top three panels have camber 5-3-1%. Haven't measured this, but that seems about right judging by eye. Measurements taken in light wind. Maybe a bit more camber develops as the wind picks up. The designed sail aimed for 8 % camber...

    As I have written before, Orion sails very well and fast on all points. When tacking in light winds though, there is a definite difference between port and starboard. It seems that I can point approximately 5 to10 degrees higher on the port tack. 

    Last modified: 02 Sep 2018 09:26 | Anonymous member
  • 02 Aug 2018 16:34
    Reply # 6410468 on 6141347

    IF Impressionism...

    Last modified: 02 Aug 2018 16:34 | Anonymous member
  • 10 Jul 2018 04:46
    Reply # 6368091 on 6141347


    Yes. The helm balances nicely. More or less the same feel as with the bernuda rig. 

    As the wind picked up, she became a bit hard on the tiller. Dropped another panel, problem solved. 

    Very responsive 

  • 09 Jul 2018 22:06
    Reply # 6367533 on 6141347
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    I bet you had a great time, just as we had in Ingeborg, yesterday, in the same wind, and also under only six panels. These boats are really powerful!

    It appears that you have got the helm balance right as well? 


  • 09 Jul 2018 21:30
    Reply # 6367439 on 6141347

    First shot from the outside. 

  • 09 Jul 2018 15:47
    Reply # 6366674 on 6141347
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    I don't claim to know that much on mechanics. However, instead of riveting stuff to the boom, I rather use lashings, as you do. To make sure they will never move out of position, I would make  a stop collar or ridge of some sort on the tube. This could consist of a number of rounds tape, or a glass tape set in glue of some sort. Duct tape, sports tape or wide masking tape (painted over) will hold well enough. I even prefer hose-clamps to drilling holes in the tubes.

    I know, I know; aeroplanes are being riveted together, but aeroplane manufakturers  are in another league when it comes to knowing where and how to rivet.

    I am less afraid of drilling holes in the booms and battens at their ends.


    Last modified: 09 Jul 2018 15:49 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 09 Jul 2018 14:09
    Reply # 6366496 on 6141347

    Tiller brake.... check

    The running topping lifts and mast lift run through shackles laced to the boom. 

    Now that I'm decided on where the lifts are to be, I'm thinking of a more neat and permanent solution. The idea is to use 3 or 4 lacing eyes riveted to the boom (50/2 mm). 

    Am I right in assuming that these few rivets won't weaken the boom too much?

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