The Shape In A Junk Sail

  • 17 May 2025 22:28
    Reply # 13500414 on 13500036
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Two cliches are apposite here. People often say these things as an alternative to actually thinking, but these two cliches really apply:

    1. "Horses for courses" ( what is most practical, or pragmatic in the situation? necessary compromises?)

    2. "The proof of the pudding is in the eating" (The scientific approach. Has anyone tried it?)


    Also the title of the thread: "Shape" is a nice way to describe both the camber (cross sectional shape) and the plan form (the outline shape) which are being considered together here.


    It's an interesting discussion to follow.

    Last modified: 17 May 2025 22:30 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 17 May 2025 20:38
    Reply # 13500396 on 13500036

    Graham, Colin,

    would you mind to explain why you expect a fan-shaped top to sail better in strong winds?

    Cheers,

    Paul

    Last modified: 17 May 2025 20:38 | Anonymous member
  • 17 May 2025 19:48
    Reply # 13500386 on 13500375
    Anonymous wrote:

    Jan, that folding sailboat looks like a lot of fun. It is certainly easier to cut out a square junk sail, but I would argue that rigging one may be more difficult. I am curious as to why you used two yards. May I ask what the purpose of the second topmost one is? 

    This is the yard. The lower one - it was supposed to be the batten of the upper (intended trapezoidal) panel. But it's better this way, because the yard is stronger and I could experiment more easily with the halyard attachment point. Then it stayed like that and it doesn't bother me.

    Edit: In addition, any possible conversion to an upper trapezoid (or fan?) will be easier.

    As I mentioned - I'm a fair weather sailor, although once I had to sail (downwind) using only two panels. Beating upwind (to winward ?) using two panels is possible, but ineffective. (Probably also because the leeboards are too short).

    Last modified: 17 May 2025 21:17 | Anonymous member
  • 17 May 2025 18:32
    Reply # 13500375 on 13500036

    Graham, I have sailed with a square top sail in 30+ knots of wind but the sail was not reefed. It handled well upwind, but downwind I was very aware of the danger of death rolls. I had that Laser going close to world record speeds. I never built any reefing system, although I did tie some of the lower battens together to see if it would still sail and it did fine, but it certainly was not in strong wind. I figured with a sail so small if I wanted to reef I could lean forward and tie some battens together. A system of lines to do that while sitting so close seemed unnecessary.  I have sailed the Laser in open ocean but not in stormy weather, although the sea state was not exactly small. I cannot say I have sailed in a seaway, or what exactly you would define as such, but the Catalina Channel is known for some very strong currents, and I was able to sail up the coast to the Point Fermin Lighthouse from Angels Gate with ease. I agree that a fan topped sail seems like it would handle being deeply reefed better and likely maintain more favorable characteristics. I think an important variable is how much shape is in the upper panels whilst that deeply reefed. Just as you mentioned a square top sail with a lot of camber in the upper panels would likely work well in light airs, but not in strong winds when reefed, so too may a fan top sail with lots of camber in the upper panels have undesirable characteristics in strong winds while reefed. It seems we are in agreeance that too much shape in the upper panels is a bad idea. Currently I believe it is best to have the top and lower panels entirely flat. I no longer view each panel as a tiny sail, instead I see one shape that I am trying to encourage to form in the sail by cutting camber in specific panels only.

    Jan, that folding sailboat looks like a lot of fun. It is certainly easier to cut out a square junk sail, but I would argue that rigging one may be more difficult. I am curious as to why you used two yards. May I ask what the purpose of the second topmost one is? 

  • 17 May 2025 14:24
    Reply # 13500329 on 13500036

    I suspect that the shape of the sail in my small folding boat was the result of my laziness. I didn't have to think about the shape of the top panel, and I achieved the intended effect - moving the COE closer to the bow, as is possible in the Split Junk Rig (SJR). And - in the origami SJR, the panels are very easy to cut - so I cut the bluetarp, glued it and hey - let's sail.

    In any case, I sail with a certain sense of guilt about the top panel.

    In moments of reflection, I sometimes wonder if Czesław Marchaj (my fellow countryman, by the way) is rolling over in his grave seeing such a rectangular sail.

    Since I carefully avoid winds stronger than 18 kn - I hope I will not have the opportunity to test this sail in more difficult conditions.

    Last modified: 17 May 2025 14:56 | Anonymous member
  • 17 May 2025 05:24
    Reply # 13500267 on 13500036

    Colin, do you have experience in sailing with a deeply-reefed square-topped sail in strong winds, and perhaps also in something of a seaway?  Intuitively, I feel the fan-shaped topsail would be better in those conditions, but there is no doubt that junk-rig performance can confound expectations.  I also wonder about putting the most camber in the top of the sail. Once again, my experience would suggest that this might work well for light to moderate winds with  full sail hoisted, but not when the sail is deeply reefed in strong winds.

  • 17 May 2025 03:09
    Reply # 13500253 on 13500036

    Wind shear may be the explanation to why a square sail seems to be more effective in my experience. As Paul said, there is more sail area higher up in faster wind, and it may be that simple.

    The Chinese Treasure ships from the 1400s are almost always shown with square sails. Images of the Keying and the Ning Po, originally named the Kin Tai Foong, seem to show square sails as well. There was a replica built of the Keying called the Keying 2 but fan top style sails were used.

    Pictures of these boats is why I tried a rectangular sail.

    These ships are also sometimes depicted with their sails centered on the mast, which must have made them very stable downwind. Like Lores that Graeme posted. I bet Lores was very fast and stable downwind, but without the ability to shift the sail off center on the mast, I doubt Lores made much headway against the wind.

    The old Chinese boats must have had some technique for moving the center point of their sails on their mast. It could be that whatever technique they used to do so also enabled better windward capabilities, but that is pure theory. Such an ability in an already comparatively complex rig design is a head scratcher to be sure. I have seen a junk rig with the ability to move the sail slightly, but it was not perfectly centered and did it seem easy to do so.

    On a side note, since my sails were fixed in their position on the mast, while sailing downwind, if I let the sail out too far, it started pushing the boat to windward and would almost dunk me in the water! I guess that's called a death roll. If the sail was able to be centered on the mast, that may not be an issue at all.

    It is interesting to ponder what makes a true junk sail. From what I have read about the Keying when it visited England, reporters claimed the sails were made out of bamboo and matting! It may be possible whatever technology these old boats used is not feasible to recreate. Perhaps whatever plants they used to weave into sail cloth, or the way they wove the fibers, had some inherent aerodynamic quality.

    This is an awesome website, and I have a feeling there are some very cool discoveries on the horizon.

    -Colin Clayton

    Last modified: 17 May 2025 03:09 | Anonymous member
  • 17 May 2025 00:39
    Reply # 13500218 on 13500036
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Here's a few more square top batten lug sails (old and new).

    They all have the lifts,  sheeting and reefing systems which identify them as true Chinese junks, except for the last two which I have some doubts about. The second to last  appears to have sheeting on both the luff and leech side of the square panels and might trace its origin more to the "square sail". Not sure. The last one (Lores) I'm not sure about either.

    The split one, third to last (with the blue sail and fold-away hull), fits the definition (well, my definition) of the Chinese junk and has been the subject of recent posts (Jan Cz).

    Also, Amiina (another SJR) raced for a season with the top panel missing ...


    Oh, and lets not forget Roger S's laserPanic (yet another SJR)


    rather apposite to your own boat (another laser, with a square top batten lug sail)

    Last modified: 17 May 2025 01:50 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 16 May 2025 19:23
    Reply # 13500091 on 13500036

    Hi Colin,

    Your findings are very fascinating, especially the effect of camber position and flat top sail shape!

    I can imagine the background of your flat top findings being one of the following: either the sail shape itself with more are high up, or the angle of the upper battens being more parallel to the airflow and thus producing less drag. The last point might also be one of the reasons why Slieve's rig reportedly sail upwind so powerfully.


    Thanks a lot for sharing! Very interesting!

    Paul

  • 16 May 2025 17:36
    Message # 13500036

    Hello, my name is Colin Clayton!

    After spending years making junk sails for a Laser at Cabrillo Beach, California and testing them in Hurricane Gulch I wish to share what I have learned as I believe it may be beneficial to other junk sailors.

    I used to add camber into every panel of my junk sails, except the top panels, similarly to many junk sails that I see today. I have found that shape in the lower panels reduces the effectiveness of the sail. It seems that only panels located about 2/3rds up the sail should have camber added.

    I used to add the most camber into the bottom panels and lessened the amount of added camber going up the sail. Once I reversed that it was a world of difference especially in regard to how high I could point into the wind.

    I also tried many methods to attach the sail to the mast. The one that seemed to work best for me was also the most simple. An eye is placed at the luff end of each batten. Then a single line, beginning at a control cleat, is laced through the eye and around the mast for each batten then tied off at the yard. This made the sail very free, but still very much under control. It almost began to feel like I was flying a kite on a pole instead of wrangling a mechanical wing.

    Fan top style junk rigs were all I made at first. One day, almost as a joke, I decided to make a rectangular one, fully expecting it to sail terribly. Surprisingly, it was much faster going upwind and felt more stable. I think there are benefits to a fan top style rig over a square top one, but if speed is your goal then a cambered square top is the answer.

    Attached to the post are pictures of an earlier fan top sail with shape in the lower panels as well as a fan top sail with camber added only in the upper middle section. Finally, there is a picture of a square top sail that highlights the location of the shape added to the panels.

    Here is a video showing how I rigged my Laser and another showing how to cut out the sail panels.

    How To Make A Junk Sail (Part Two Rigging)

    How To Make A Junk Sail (Part One Lofting)

    Happy Sailing!


    3 files
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