Sadler 25 conversion..

  • 23 May 2020 15:25
    Reply # 8988394 on 8800878

    Bearing in mind that one of the advantages of the SJR is that the main doesn't protrude so far over the side of the boat when running or reaching,  as say , a classic HM rig, allowing the boat to heel further before the sail strikes the water, I've wondered if the parallel lower panels actually NEED rise in them.

    Is there any reason not to make the lower  panels symmetrical with a rise of 0 degrees?

    Is there an aerodynamic advantage in having rise in the panels?  I know aesthetically it looks better with rise, but practically?

    The lens would be same top and bottom, so less time  marking out, no chance of sewing an upper lense  on the bottom  of the centrepanel or vice versa  and it would eliminate the chance of assembling a panel upside down.

    There would be a reduced clearance above the water, but would the small loss of clearance be worth the easier construction?


    As Rael says about his proa,  if not Y not?


    Last modified: 23 May 2020 16:03 | Anonymous member
  • 23 May 2020 11:46
    Reply # 8988131 on 8800878

    Graeme,

    I made templates for all my panels, and early on not having marked them “this side”managed to cut one panel wrong..

    my cloth is a lighter shade on one side, so I managed to avoid sewing them up wrong,just.

    My favourite trick was finishing long seams only to find the lower bobbin had emptied half way along. Consequently I have a few “tear here” dotted lines.

    However you’ve got me worried now, think I’ll have another look..

  • 23 May 2020 11:22
    Reply # 8988107 on 8800878
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Paul, I WAS an idiot and did actually get one upside down.

    None of the jibs looked as good as I hoped, on that first outing. But that crease, I tweaked and tugged and fooled around for weeks, and nothing would make it go away. In the end I dismantled the rig and began to recut the panel, and it was only then that it slowly dawned on me what it might  be wrong. Upside down or right way up is surprisingly difficult to identify on that sail. Moral of story: label them as you make them!

    Last modified: 23 May 2020 11:24 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 23 May 2020 09:48
    Reply # 8988059 on 8800878

    Hey David,

    thanks, I’ll follow your advice and get Nylon 66..

    It looks that my mast will be in a similar position to what yours was - I’ve checked the measurements about a hundred times, so only about another hundred to go.

    I may inject some expanding foam into the headlining cavity anyway for insulation, as I often get condensation there.

    You’d be most welcome to come along David when it’s all sorted, but only after I’ve enticed Slieve along first to tweak it to it’s maximum potential haha..

  • 23 May 2020 09:22
    Reply # 8988017 on 8800878

    Thanks Graeme,

    I used round and broad seam for the main panels, as recommended by Slieve.

    I know what you mean about being careful jibs are the right way up. Of the time it took to build the sail, I reckon 1/3 was spent in head scratching, 1/3 spent in checking I wasn’t being an idiot, and only 1/3 actually making it..

  • 23 May 2020 08:38
    Reply # 8987989 on 8800878

    Good to hear that you're making progress, Paul.

    The only thing wrong with using PVC was that I found it difficult to tap M6 into it, it tended to crumble, so I had to drill out the eyeplates to accept M8. If I did it again, I'd go for black nylon 66 for greater strength and toughness, and I certainly would go that way for your larger rig. It would be fine to buy a 250mm length and bury half of it in the tube, leaving 125mm to screw to.

    I dug out and scanned an ancient photo of my Sadler 25 to remind myself of the mast position. For my wingsails with less balance area than you'll have, it shows that I put the mast through what would normally have been the hatch area, but I only cut out a smaller hatch aperture through the forward part of it. At this distance in time, I don't remember what the helm balance was like, so I can't guess how a SJR with the mast in the same position will compare. Also I don't remember how I reinforced the deck area, but it wouldn't have been much. I think you'll be OK bolting 18mm plywood where the 500mm square hatch was, without cutting away any headlining. At that time, I was working for M S Gibb, and got the foundry to cast me a mast partners fitting, then the machine shop to bore it out for a 5in diameter mast. I guess your mast partners are going to take up more space, and will end up being a little further forward.

    (Also in the photo, I see that I put in a peg at the bermudan mast position, for the foot of a derrick for mast stepping)

    When you've got her into commission, please could I invite myself for a ride, for old time's sake to remind myself what a good little boat the Sadler 25 is, and to compare and contrast your new SJR with my barely remembered wingsail on the same hull? assuming that travel is permitted by then, of course.

  • 23 May 2020 08:13
    Reply # 8987969 on 8800878
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    There you go Paul, I don't know why your sail picture wasn't showing up.

    Make sure you don't get a jib upside down - its easy to do and hard to tell.

    Looking good!!

    What system did you use to make your main panels? If they all drape like that from below the top panel, with those semi-circular bags, then you will have nailed it.

    Last modified: 23 May 2020 08:40 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 23 May 2020 07:47
    Reply # 8987961 on 8800878

    Oops, here’s another attempt at posting pics

  • 22 May 2020 23:26
    Reply # 8987500 on 8800878


    just recently finished making my SJR sail.

    Here is a Pic of a main and Jiblet panel suspended from a batten.

    I had a lot of fun making it. Slieve McGalliard was incredibly patient in answering the many many questions I asked, and amazingly generous with his time guiding me through the whole process.

    I’ve now ordered the Lampost I previously mentioned on this forum. 

    I’m very tempted to use David Tyler’s masthead fitting on Weaverbird idea, as it seems such a simple elegant solution. An 80mm diameter PVC rod machined to bury into my 76mm mast top. If you see this post David, could you advise me as to depth of bury, would a 250mm length 50% buried be enough? My Sail is 30m2.

    I had a good look at the fore hatch area in BooTwo today as this is where the mast will be sited. I’ll laminate layers of Plywood as partners to fill the hatch, but was wondering about the strength of the surrounding coach roof area. My Sadler 25 has a moulded fibreglass headlining. I’d assumed there’d be a balsa core between lining and coach roof, but on drilling out a plug found this not to be the case - there is just a 25mm void between inner and outer skin. (The lining is 3mm grp). 
    will this be strong enough, or should I cut away the inner skin in order to beef up the whole area with Plywood, or fill the void with expanding foam?
    I’d be grateful for ideas.

       " ...there is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing as simply messing about in junk-rigged boats" 
                                                               - the Chinese Water Rat

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