Cambered sails VS flat/ hinged battens on a Badger.

  • 02 Mar 2020 16:44
    Reply # 8786906 on 8786900
    Deleted user

    Yes, I reduce the articulation in the topmost batten, to half of what it is lower down - but it's not for heavy airs. I only put in up to 10% camber, by whatever method, and this is not too much for any wind in which I would want to sail to windward (downwind, it's immaterial). No, it's because I have to make a smooth transition from full camber to the straight yard, and doing this within a small top panel is too abrupt.

    This talk of snapping wooden battens is somewhat misleading. It's quite possible, using any material, to make the strength too much or too little, or just right. Wooden battens need straight grain, and no knots, it's true - aluminium, GRP and CFRP tubes don't suffer in that way. This can be overcome by laminating two or more thinner strips of wood together, if the only timber available is of a low grade.  Wooden battens tend to be heavier than tubular battens, for a given strength and stiffness, and they need to be constructed, whereas tubes can be bought ready made; but they can be serviceable.


    Thanks David T.  Understood on abrupt transition and reducing articulation.  Valuable feedback.



  • 02 Mar 2020 16:42
    Reply # 8786904 on 8786770
    Deleted user
    Anonymous wrote:

    David, we bought a 37.5 foot Benford Dory in Mexico in September. By the previous owner's admission the boat sailed poorly with very heavy weather helm, inability to sail through the eye of the wind and poor windward performance. To remedy these problems we followed the example of Zebedee, and left NZ with this intention before we had even seen the boat. Several months later, and still in Mexico, we have begun test sailing the boat with 12% camber in fore sail and 10% in the main sail, top and bottom end plates on an NACA0012 profiled rudder, and a feathering Kiwi prop. 

    The boat does not feel any more tender than it did previously and it’s performance now feels satisfyingly lively. The boat sailed well to windward with little weather helm and tacked reliably with two panels reefed down. This has only been in flat water at the mouth of Guaymas Harbour, the acid test will be sailing in the short steep waves of the Sea of Cortez.

    We are happy with developments thus far but have doubts about the relative robustness of the wooden battens. We would like to replace the battens some day but Mexico’s paucity of resources make this difficult presently. Overall, the more lively performance seems to have been worth the hard work. 

    If you are interested, our blog sailingtaiko.blogspot.com will, hopefully, soon contain more details about our experience sail making and more on the boat’s performance.

    Martin

    Hi Martin, nice to meet you thru the forum.  I remember your boat was for sale.  Congratulations!

    Zebedee seems the benchmark for sure.  Alan is very generous by email to my million questions.  Plus Annie has sailed Zeb so gives great feedback.

    My rudder already has the preferred forward balance area and not a bad foil shape....we shall see.

    Let's stay in touch, my email is in my profile.  I will def follow your blog.

    David.





  • 02 Mar 2020 16:35
    Reply # 8786900 on 8786590
    David D wrote:

    Does one make the top of the sails flatter for heavy wind by NOT having hinges in the top, just as cambered sails have less camber then virtually no camber in top panels?

    Plus I can see with built in camber one could gradually reduce camber at top.  Could one gradually reduce the articulation angle the higher up?

    David T is this what you did?

    PS someone's comment about snapping wood battens on gybe haven't strengthened the case for then adding wood hinges.......though it could be a great way to repair the break LOL.


    Yes, I reduce the articulation in the topmost batten, to half of what it is lower down - but it's not for heavy airs. I only put in up to 10% camber, by whatever method, and this is not too much for any wind in which I would want to sail to windward (downwind, it's immaterial). No, it's because I have to make a smooth transition from full camber to the straight yard, and doing this within a small top panel is too abrupt.

    This talk of snapping wooden battens is somewhat misleading. It's quite possible, using any material, to make the strength too much or too little, or just right. Wooden battens need straight grain, and no knots, it's true - aluminium, GRP and CFRP tubes don't suffer in that way. This can be overcome by laminating two or more thinner strips of wood together, if the only timber available is of a low grade.  Wooden battens tend to be heavier than tubular battens, for a given strength and stiffness, and they need to be constructed, whereas tubes can be bought ready made; but they can be serviceable.


    Last modified: 02 Mar 2020 16:38 | Anonymous member
  • 02 Mar 2020 15:43
    Reply # 8786770 on 8784076
    Deleted user

    David, we bought a 37.5 foot Benford Dory in Mexico in September. By the previous owner's admission the boat sailed poorly with very heavy weather helm, inability to sail through the eye of the wind and poor windward performance. To remedy these problems we followed the example of Zebedee, and left NZ with this intention before we had even seen the boat. Several months later, and still in Mexico, we have begun test sailing the boat with 12% camber in fore sail and 10% in the main sail, top and bottom end plates on an NACA0012 profiled rudder, and a feathering Kiwi prop. 

    The boat does not feel any more tender than it did previously and it’s performance now feels satisfyingly lively. The boat sailed well to windward with little weather helm and tacked reliably with two panels reefed down. This has only been in flat water at the mouth of Guaymas Harbour, the acid test will be sailing in the short steep waves of the Sea of Cortez.

    We are happy with developments thus far but have doubts about the relative robustness of the wooden battens. We would like to replace the battens some day but Mexico’s paucity of resources make this difficult presently. Overall, the more lively performance seems to have been worth the hard work. 

    If you are interested, our blog sailingtaiko.blogspot.com will, hopefully, soon contain more details about our experience sail making and more on the boat’s performance.

    Martin

    Last modified: 02 Mar 2020 16:35 | Deleted user
  • 02 Mar 2020 15:00
    Reply # 8786590 on 8784076
    Deleted user


    Does one make the top of the sails flatter for heavy wind by NOT having hinges in the top, just as cambered sails have less camber then virtually no camber in top panels?

    Plus I can see with built in camber one could gradually reduce camber at top.  Could one gradually reduce the articulation angle the higher up?

    David T is this what you did?


    PS someone's comment about snapping wood battens on gybe haven't strengthened the case for then adding wood hinges.......though it could be a great way to repair the break LOL.

  • 02 Mar 2020 12:48
    Reply # 8786383 on 8786140
    Anonymous wrote:

    Christopher,

    does you boat have the modified rudder with endplates on it?
    If yes, could give us a short before-and-after description?

    A.

    Hello Arne - I had the opportunity to sail Tony's daughter's Freedom which did indeed have rudder endplates to your specs and as in your earlier photo (which was the Freedom without the centreboard). There was a significant difference in steering. Acceleration into the turn and deceleration once counter rudder was applied was better.

    The Freedom with endplates had different gearing from wheel to rudder (less turn to hardover which I tried to take into account. Also the hull may be slightly different as she was moulded in the USA. My Freedom was moulded in UK.


    It reminded me a bit of driving my first car with rack and pinion steering.

  • 02 Mar 2020 09:28
    Reply # 8786165 on 8784076

    My daughter bought the Freedom junk ketch featured in the latest JRA mag (thanks Sally for the great article!). I had the pleasure of being on the delivery trip from Cowes to Wilhelmshaven. The boat in question has the standard centreboard keel, hinged battens and a rudder modified (I believe) to Arne's specs. I was entirely happy with the way the boat handled - tacking, gybing, sail performance.

  • 02 Mar 2020 08:42
    Reply # 8786140 on 8784076
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Christopher,

    does your boat have the modified rudder with endplates on it?
    If yes, could give us a short before-and-after description?

    A.

    Last modified: 16 Nov 2021 13:03 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 02 Mar 2020 07:49
    Reply # 8786114 on 8784076

    I took a couple for a trial sail on my junk rigged Freedom 30. They were so delighted that they wanted to buy her. She was not for sale so they advertised hoping to find another. They bought the one referred to in an earlier post and spent a considerable amount on improving her rig but were hugely disappointed for the reasons stated. 

    It turned out that this Freedom had had her centreboard ripped out and shallower bilge keels retro-fitted.

    This must have severely affected her performance as I rarely used my engine in the   confined waters and harbours of the Solent with a deep centreboard to pivot on and two sails to adjust. The craft were identical in every other way eg. hinged battens.



  • 02 Mar 2020 01:27
    Reply # 8785794 on 8784860
    Anonymous wrote:

    David,

    although I usually keep nagging about adding camber, I agree with David Ty. and his three stages.

    That said...

    ·         I don’t buy any argument that a tender boat is better off with flat sails. I have sailed for so long with fairly big sails and some camber, that reefing has become second nature. I bet, on my last boat, Frøken Sørensen, I was down on one reef or more, at least half of the time  -  and that was during inshore daytrips. I never regarded the boat as over-rigged, but was glad I could hoist an extra panel in light winds.
    Same with my present Ingeborg. First panel is dropped in the lower half of F4.
    So, to me, reefing early is the answer, not degrading the JR with flat panels.

    ·         I am sceptical to wooden battens. Wood is too stiff and heavy compared to its strength, in my view. The problem is the shock-load put on them at the end of a sudden half-long gybe. The tubular, thin-walled aluminium battens can take such loads much better: The combination of light weight, flexibility and strength therefore makes them more suited for battens (just like bamboo).

    Arne

    PS;
    As for steering problems with Freedoms: Some have already improved their steering by simply adding an endplate on the rudder.


    I'm in full agreement with Arne. My previous boat LC (a tender boat) had generous amounts of camber and she schooled many a pretender....


       " ...there is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing as simply messing about in junk-rigged boats" 
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