Mast repair advice

  • 18 Sep 2017 10:39
    Reply # 5265809 on 5262807

    Thanks Kurt. I'm very interested to hear stories of this kind.

    I'm currently working my way through the long and venerable “Mast materials and Specifications” thread. There's a lot of information to absorb. I hope I can distill it into a useful summary for Coromandel sailors.

    Needlespar have given me a rough estimate of £800-£1200 + VAT for a new tapered mast of about my size. I will collect more data.

  • 18 Sep 2017 09:59
    Reply # 5265759 on 5262807

    Hi Richard & all,

    I wasn't there for my Coromandel MissyMoto->LittleMin->minim's first or second dismasting. I believe the eventual repair by NeedleSpar involved inner-sleeving the upper mast. I look forward to examining it myself, but I expect it'll give me confidence, maybe not for much open ocean sailing, but I think a sleeve is a decent solution. I won't like to see lots of rivets...

    I was aboard for mehitabel's mainmast breaking-but-not-falling in mid-passage. That started at a 3/4" vent hole with a clamshell cover screw at either side, half a metre above deck, right in front of the pilothouse window. It progressed well into the substantial, otherwise adequate timber mast, before our eyes. Got somewhere, fixed it sort of, then in NZ unstepped, much reinforced and even shortened the mast in converting to junk rig, and all's well.

    Best no holes! Especially forward or aft facing. But our guilty one is still partly there, heavily 'sleeved' and proven harmless.

    Cheers, Kurt

  • 17 Sep 2017 18:57
    Reply # 5264961 on 5262807

    I've just found this picture that shows the wiring hole that was in the mast when I got it. It's exactly in line with the deck. It's also through the thin wall of the mast, whereas my hole goes into the thick retaining ring for the mast sleeve.

    Hmmm.

  • 17 Sep 2017 18:10
    Reply # 5264891 on 5262807

    This might be a good time to ask where I might look for / how I might build a replacement mast. A mast with a hinge is handy for coastal exploration but I've long been a bit dubious about using it for, say, the transatlantic Jester Challenge. A mid-ocean dismasting would not be fun. David Tyler's shock at my hole-making has reminded me about all the other holes!

    The existing mast is basically a heavily modified 8m × 100m tube of 3mm aluminium alloy.

    Last modified: 17 Sep 2017 18:12 | Anonymous member
  • 16 Sep 2017 15:24
    Reply # 5263634 on 5263613
    Antoine Maartens wrote:The mast had the inner tube when I took ownership. It means the wall thickness of Siskin's mast is fairly substantial.
    I wish I knew the story.

    I don't know how a way to make those scratches look more beautiful is what I meant to say.

    Ah, that does not worry me very much. The scratches tell a story.

    My dad (a reliability engineer) tells the story of a helicopter that disintegrated because someone had edged it's paintwork with a razor blade, causing multiple mode 1 fractures. I'm a bit concerned about leaving any sharp-edges scratches made by stainless-steel screw heads, which is why I thought it would be a good idea to polish them out.

    I'm much less worried about a smooth round hole, but I'll gladly listen to actual experience over materials science theory.



    Last modified: 16 Sep 2017 15:36 | Anonymous member
  • 16 Sep 2017 15:12
    Reply # 5263618 on 5263518
    David Tyler wrote:

    Bruno,

    If you should happen to read this, please could you Google "H M Bateman cartoons", and then draw one entitled "The man who drilled a hole in a junk rig aluminium mast at deck level" ready for the next JRA magazine?

    Thanks.

    This one I'll gladly own.

  • 16 Sep 2017 15:09
    Reply # 5263613 on 5262807
    The mast had the inner tube when I took ownership. It means the wall thickness of Siskin's mast is fairly substantial.

    I don't know how a way to make those scratches look more beautiful is what I meant to say. 

    David is right of course. I don't believe the holes in Siskins mast are live threatening. But I make a point of avoiding drilling into the mast. It is the main reason Siskin still has no masthead light etc. I haven't figured out a good wiring plan.

    Last modified: 16 Sep 2017 15:20 | Anonymous member
  • 16 Sep 2017 15:08
    Reply # 5263610 on 5263500
    David Tyler wrote:

    Leave well alone. If this is the worst that happens, the mast can consider itself well off. Talking of which, that screw through the mast near deck level!  Not good.

    Hmm, the mast already has several rivet holes at roughly that level, to hold an aluminium collar around which the hinge sleeve fits. It also has a hole just below deck level that I assume was made for wiring, though the whole thing was dismantled when I got it. Perhaps the whole design is flawed. It was quite hard to figure out how the hinge was ever meant to work.

  • 16 Sep 2017 14:12
    Reply # 5263518 on 5262807

    Bruno,

    If you should happen to read this, please could you Google "H M Bateman cartoons", and then draw one entitled "The man who drilled a hole in a junk rig aluminium mast at deck level" ready for the next JRA magazine?

    Thanks.

  • 16 Sep 2017 13:35
    Reply # 5263500 on 5262807
    Richard Brooksby wrote:

    Tammy Norie's mast has been damaged and I'd like some advice about what to do. These gouges have been caused by the screws holding in the anti-chafing strips on my battens and yard. (Ironic, eh? More detail in https://tammynorie.wordpress.com/2017/08/22/little-jobs-roundup-2017-08/.)

    What do you recommend?

    Leave well alone. If this is the worst that happens, the mast can consider itself well off. Talking of which, that screw through the mast near deck level!  Not good.
       " ...there is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing as simply messing about in junk-rigged boats" 
                                                               - the Chinese Water Rat

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