Galion 22 conversion

  • 10 Apr 2018 15:02
    Reply # 6081363 on 5070195

    I have started to buld the qute challenging mast step, more info a bit later.

    I also added up the weight of the 130/5 + 100/4 mast option (still haven't made up my mind) and 35/2 battens. Without the yard the weight sums up to 60-65 kg. Seems a lot, doesn't it?

    Last modified: 10 Apr 2018 15:03 | Anonymous member
  • 21 Mar 2018 15:17
    Reply # 5991016 on 5070195
    Anonymous member (Administrator)


    all I can say is that the epoxy-only joints works fine on two of my boats. Now, the top sections are of wood in my case, but the epoxy-to-lower mast joint is still epoxy-aluminium. My thinking is that the glue surface I suggested is so big that it would surprise me hugely if they lose grip. In addition there is the fairing above the joint, which gives additional safety against suddenly ending up with a short mast.


  • 21 Mar 2018 08:16
    Reply # 5990447 on 5070195

    Back to the mast issue: I had a good offer on 130/5 al-tube, which is 6060-T66. I don't quite understand these standards - is this any good?

    This tube would be used with my old 100/4 (discussion below), but I don't seem to feel safe with the idea of only gluing them together with epoxy. Is there really no significant risk of losing the topmast, if e.g. heavily heeled with too much sail, which would change the wind force direction more to the top of the mast? Or with heavy banging on the waves?

    Does adding a bolt give more risks than benefits?

    (Sidenote: I decided to have unalome as my sail insignia. Of course this should not be high on the priority list, but doing this was important for me personally.)

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    Last modified: 21 Mar 2018 11:02 | Anonymous member
  • 21 Mar 2018 07:12
    Reply # 5990426 on 5990425
    Annie Hill wrote:Oh, well done, Jami.  If this sail is anything like the first one you made, it should be a cracker.  I look forward to seeing it set on the boat in the not too distant future.

    but don't wait too much - this is only the second sail I have made in my life, and there were again many totally new things to be learned. But it's nice to know that I am not the only one looking forward to seeing this sail at sea!

  • 21 Mar 2018 07:10
    Reply # 5990425 on 5070195
    Oh, well done, Jami.  If this sail is anything like the first one you made, it should be a cracker.  I look forward to seeing it set on the boat in the not too distant future.
  • 21 Mar 2018 06:23
    Reply # 5990386 on 5070195

    Hooray to me! Sewing done!

    I decided to stay with separate and hinged panels all the way. I just couldn't justify losing (to my eye) the biggest advantage, modularity. 

    No photos or videos, because I haven't got a place to put the thing together - not even a flagpole on my yard. 

    All I need now is "only" the running rigging, the mast, partners and mast step along with the bottom job and a few other things planned for this year...

  • 15 Mar 2018 08:29
    Reply # 5979813 on 5070195
    The sewing is about to move to the top three panels, and I have to decide how to handle them.

    As you might remember, panels 4-7 were done with a hinge system, not sewing the panels together. Inspired by Roger Taylor but unlike his sail, I did mine with hinges of the same length and built the camber with the usual methods (rounding, broadseam, tucks).

    Taylor chose to sew the top panels together and use batten pockets, and as I understand, one of the main reasons was to secure the storm canvas area.

    I'm not sure if this is needed in my case. I could build the hinges at the top panels stronger than the lower ones. 

    However, I wonder if there is another good reason to sew the top panels together: the semi-open slot around the battens starts to form new luffs and leeches, when the panels start to be more vertical - especially with a sail that follows Arne's planform.

    I know this has not been measured and not much theorized either, but how do you see it: would this be a good reason to sew the top three of two panels together or not?

    Last modified: 15 Mar 2018 08:29 | Anonymous member
  • 14 Mar 2018 12:42
    Reply # 5978015 on 5070195

    Even more to think about, thanks again!

  • 14 Mar 2018 10:43
    Reply # 5970944 on 5070195
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    A tapered tube mast is well and fine if available. If not, the 2-section mast should work well enough, and make use of (some of) Jami's existing mast for top-mast. 

    Below is a sketch which explains how I would have done it: The top section would first be given two 100mm tall and 10mm thick waistbelt from grp tape, set in epoxy. When this has hardened and the belts have been adjusted to fit closely into the lower section, a generous amount of glue (epoxy or whatever) is added to fit the topmast permanently. This method should ensure good enough alignment. When the glue has set, it is time to add the fairing, of thickened  (medium density) epoxy with one layer of glass on top of it. I don't think there is any need to use any bolt or screws in the joint.


  • 14 Mar 2018 09:46
    Reply # 5970883 on 5970879
    Jami Jokinen wrote:

    In this picture their non-tapered posts seem to have very nice and smooth transition zones. However, the alloy is T5. Could one live with this if the wall thickness and diameter would be enough - or does it mean a very heavy mast?

    I can only reply that my T5 tapered tube, 165mm x 3mm, is strong enough, and stiff enough, and weighs just the same as the old bermudan mast with its standing rigging and headsail furler - not too heavy at all.
       " ...there is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing as simply messing about in junk-rigged boats" 
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