Rip here...

The line of drilled holes for the Warram hinges looks like a “rip here”-message. Since the new Dyneema line is so strong, I would be inclined to increase the distance between the holes to reduce the chance for the wood to split. When we repaired that Tiki 21, a couple of the holes had been ripped open (plywood). We mended it with epoxy.

Arne

Jami, sorry for the spelling mistake.

I have not applied glass cloth to hardwood so can not advise, maybe someone else can advise you there. My own intention was simply to seal the hardwood with epoxy resin, as I can not see the point of using glass on hardwood and intuitively it does not seem necessary or a good idea - but maybe I can learn something if someone else chimes in.

I never thought about the difficulty regarding tropical hardwoods, conservation etc. Here we have access to Australian hardwoods such as jarra, which are extremely dense and strong. It is expensive, but only a small amount is needed. I would also consider iroko which we can get here - or any strong tough, stringy wood. I would just look around for the toughest wood locally available and which does not have environmental issues. Don't forget you are spreading the load over quite a long hinge, compared to just a pair of gudgeon/pintles. 

Others can advise better, but I think maybe you are over-thinking the requirement.

I have not used the Warram Lashings before, but hope to use that system on my scow. I had planned to run a piece of hardwood down the transom to the bottom of the skegs. I had also planned on a hardwood strip down the inside edge of the rudders, rounded to a semicircle - and extended to also form the leading edge of the balanced portions.

Would this not be the way for Jamie too, if he decides to use a Warram lashing? I think hardwood would be a better starting point for the lashings than a metal strip, and still very strong.

Think of a number, say 3-5mm. The iron is mainly meant to take the side forces from the skeg and rudder, but it would be convenient to weld on gudgeons for hinges as well...

Arne

Thanks, Arne, your sketch is exactly what I was visualising for the skeg, but was too lazy to draw!

Having made that, with a flat after face, the rudder then needs a semicircular leading edge, set close to the skeg, whether there are metal fittings or lashings. Metal fittings would be recessed into that leading edge.