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Galion 22 conversion

  • 15 Apr 2021 17:23
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    Reply # 10316130 on 5070195
    Anonymous member

    I managed to source a leftover piece of iroco, 65x98 mm.

    Looks like the project is back on track, thanks to you all <3

    Last modified: 16 Apr 2021 07:06 | Anonymous member
  • 15 Apr 2021 13:39
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    Reply # 10315361 on 10314645
    Anonymous member
    Annie wrote:

     It would be no big deal to cut the lacings and drill out the holes again.  It would probably pay you to use a larger spade bit, to ensure you dig out all the fibre, fill up the holes and then drill them out to the correct size. I'm sure your "random fix" would allow time to do this.

    Yes, but drilling and filling with epoxy is quite a chunk of cake underwater... thus fixing the rudder would always need the boat to be hauled :/
  • 15 Apr 2021 13:14
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    Reply # 10315312 on 5070195
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Annie, while you are there; how far can you turn FanShi's rudders from side to side?

    Arne

    Last modified: 15 Jun 2021 00:20 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 15 Apr 2021 08:23
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    Reply # 10314647 on 10310532
    Anonymous member
    Anonymous wrote:

    The Wharram lashings would leave the smallest gap between the skeg and the rudder. And I still have the lack of a proper ss-welder close by...

    Anyone familiar with the lashings: why is a 3mm rebate needed? It would seem one can make the edges of the skeg and rudder much stronger with glassing without one?


    The only reason I can think of is so that they don't disturb the flow, just as you would set in gudgeons.  I guess it's up to the builder to decide whether the refinement is worth it.
  • 15 Apr 2021 08:16
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    Reply # 10314645 on 5070195
    Anonymous member

    Hmm, there's another thing as well: the Wharram-system doesn't make it possible to remove the rudder for random fixes. This is a con, for sure.

    (Sorry, the "quote"  system doesn't work on my phone.)

    Not so, actually, Jami.  It would be no big deal to cut the lacings and drill out the holes again.  It would probably pay you to use a larger spade bit, to ensure you dig out all the fibre, fill up the holes and then drill them out to the correct size. I'm sure your "random fix" would allow time to do this.
  • 14 Apr 2021 13:42
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    Reply # 10312053 on 10311796
    Anonymous member
    Arne wrote:

    PS:

    A little more idea ping pong:
    What about clamping the end of the line horizontally to the rudder over, say, 100mm? Then it can be thoroughly epoxied to the rudder, without filling the holes. If you later want to remove the rudder to work on it, all you need to do is to cut off that line. No need to re-drill the holes.

    The cord is trying to move to and fro through the holes, as the load comes first on one side, then the other side, of the rudder. Not only does it cross the edges of the glass sheathing, but also the edges of the shells of the barnacles that will make their home in unfilled holes. So I reckon that filling with epoxy is going to be important for longevity - once it's certain that the design and construction have been proven correct.
  • 14 Apr 2021 12:48
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    Reply # 10311834 on 5070195
    Anonymous member

    I might point out that the holes need not, and should not, be close to the gap. All the action takes place at the crossing point of the cords, as they gently flex to and fro, and what happens elsewhere is only governed by the need for sufficient strength/
  • 14 Apr 2021 12:42
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    Reply # 10311796 on 5070195
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Good!
    Following David's advise, I have now adjusted that drawing.
    Better?

    Arne

    PS:
    A little more idea ping pong:
    What about clamping the end of the line horizontally to the rudder over, say, 100mm? Then it can be thoroughly epoxied to the rudder, without filling the holes. If you later want to remove the rudder to work on it, all you need to do is to cut off that line. No need to re-drill the holes.



    Last modified: 14 Apr 2021 12:52 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 14 Apr 2021 12:03
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    Reply # 10311591 on 5070195
    Anonymous member

    Correct, Jami. The after edge of the skeg would be better flat across, to maintain maximum thickness for strength. Better hydrodynamically, too, as a closer approximation to a C-shaped trailing edge concentric with a half-round leading edge on the rudder. 

    For tensioning, how about tying a stopper knot in one end of the cord, making the lashing, tying a heavy weight to the other end, filling the holes with epoxy, then trimming off the excess cord when it's cured? Dyneema is very chafe and UV resistant, so I can't see any need to think about how to remove it in the short term.

    Last modified: 14 Apr 2021 12:45 | Anonymous member
  • 14 Apr 2021 11:05
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    Reply # 10311359 on 5070195
    Anonymous member

    Thank you, everyone. This is most helpful.

    Arne, I'm under the impression that the skeg does not need a tapered aft end?
       " ...there is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing as simply messing about in junk-rigged boats" 
                                                               - the Chinese Water Rat

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