Paint and varnish

<< First  < Prev   1   2   Next >  Last >> 
  • 24 May 2014 02:47
    Reply # 1556690 on 1523066
    Thus proving that Small is Beautiful, Arne.  It's surprising how the cost of maintaining a boat goes up exponentionally with its size.  I reckon a 30 footer would cost a lot more to run then my 26 footer, which, in turn, needs a lot more paint than Ms Sorensen.  (Sorry WA doesn't let me insert 'foreign' letters.)  I have a bit of varnish on Fantail and it's amazing how long a litre lasts, with such dinky pieces of wood to deal with :-)
  • 23 May 2014 16:11
    Reply # 1556450 on 1523066
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    But then Ron Glas is as big as a barn! I just returned from the harbour now, after having rolled on the antifouling on Frøken Sørensen. Only just over one can was needed, around one litre!


    No one who knows me have ever accused me for being a perfectionist. Still, with such a fair-weather toy like FS, one tends to get a bit more picky with details  -  even I.


    Cheers, Arne

    PS: BTW, that letter ø is pronounced about like the u in burst and return

    Last modified: 15 Jun 2017 10:44 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 23 May 2014 11:23
    Reply # 1556360 on 1523066
    Deleted user
    We have always had wooden boats that need an annual repaint or every two years , we adopt the 5 metre rule on Ron Glas  -----  if it looks good from that distance then its fine-- a hard used cruising boat will inevitably collect a few scrapes and dings [caused by other boats of course!!] Life is too short etc etc ......  tony&sally
  • 18 May 2014 19:03
    Reply # 1554261 on 1523066
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Hi again.


    I ended up giving the topsides of Frøken Sørensen two coats of white 2-pot Polyurethane (Jotun Yachting Topgloss). By applying the paint with a fairly cheap brush and not adding thinner to the paint, moderate brushmarks were left to dry in the paint. I ran the brush horizontally at the first coat and vertically at the second one, the day after.


    The result looks like a fairly pleasant semi-gloss job from any distance above one meter  -  good enough to look good and still easy to touch up if dented.

    Here and here you can see how it looks.



    Cheers, Arne

    Last modified: 15 Jun 2017 10:35 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 25 Mar 2014 19:12
    Reply # 1524675 on 1524151
    Arne Kverneland wrote:

    Thanks Paul

    Could you suggest how much talcum you use on a litre of paint, in teaspoons, grams or whatever?

    Arne, it varies from paint manufacturer to paint manufacturer, so whatever you do, you have to make samples. I'd start at around 1/2 a cup of powder to a liter of paint, then adjust accordingly. Once you get it right, mix enough to do at least one side at the time because you never get two mixes exactly the same.

    I use a roller to apply the paint and do not brush it out. Yes, depending on the paint it leaves a lesser or greater "orange peel" affect but since I rather like the orange peel affect, it's no problem for me. Besides I got a life and seeking perfection in exterior paint jobs which are going to be bashed anyway is a waste of time. Inside of cause I'm rather more picky...

  • 25 Mar 2014 06:50
    Reply # 1524151 on 1523066
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Thanks Paul

    Could you suggest how much talcum you use on a litre of paint, in teaspoons, grams or whatever?



    PS: Actually, when watching the photos of Broremann from 2011, after I brush-painted it with ordinary, glossy paint, it doesn't look bad either, but then the laps help to break up the big flat surfaces..

    Last modified: 25 Mar 2014 07:08 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 25 Mar 2014 00:44
    Reply # 1524021 on 1523448
    Arne Kverneland wrote:Annie, is the flatting agent a powder, as the baby talcum that Paul mention? 

    Although addressed to Annie, I'll answer. Some paint makers supply it as a liquid and others as a powder. The liquid appears to be the powder mixed with a solvent/carrier of some sort. Because the liquid form has a  solvent/carrier, one is best advised to stick with the one supplied by the paint maker for fear of incompatibles. The liquid type may also make it slightly easier to mix but I've never had problems with the powder.

    I have a steel boat, so I always make the finishing coats flat (or at least satin). I used to always buy the paint makers product but since I realized that it was just a powder suspended in a carrier of some sort, I just use talcum powder and I have achieved exactly the same results.

    One caution, you need to mix it really, really well, else you will not get a consistent finish. I recommend an electric drill with a paint mixing paddle. Make sure its a variable speed drill, else things can get interesting.

  • 24 Mar 2014 19:40
    Reply # 1523830 on 1523066
    Concentrate, boys, concentrate.  Arne wants a flat paint finish for his topsides.

    I found Deks Olje went very dark in the Tropics and that the oil (No 1) washes off after a long passage.
    Last modified: 24 Mar 2014 19:41 | Anonymous member
  • 24 Mar 2014 14:29
    Reply # 1523580 on 1523066
    Some old-time yacht painters used to mix compatible gloss and varnish for the final coat, to get an even deeper gloss. I don't see why you shouldn't mix Epiphanes gloss and matt varnish to get a satin finish. I like a satin finish in the cabin, and my topsides are satin black ( or were, 5 years ago. Now they're sort of a stained, dirty matt black).
  • 24 Mar 2014 13:57
    Reply # 1523559 on 1523066

    If you are back to bare timber, try Deks Olje No1.  It is a saturation oil.

    The great advantage is that is so easy to touch up / re-apply.

    (No2 gives a shiny finish, it appears to be a good marine varnish, if that is what others may wish).


<< First  < Prev   1   2   Next >  Last >> 
       " ...there is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing as simply messing about in junk-rigged boats" 
                                                               - the Chinese Water Rat

                                                              Site contents © the Junk Rig Association and/or individual authors

Powered by Wild Apricot Membership Software