Erik,
I don’t remember if I showed you my sewing machine when you and Evi came over for a visit, two years ago.
It is a Pfaff 360, transportable, living in its own suitcase. Its maximum stitch length and zigzag is 4mm. I generally use 92 thread, which is just about the thickest thread the machine will accept. The needles I prefer are size 110/18. To make the machine sew cleanly, I need to set the upper thread tension to almost max (8-9) to balance out the underthread, even if the tension of that is set to minimum. When doing a big job, I often give the filled-up underthread bobbin one drop of sewing machine oil.
I wonder if you are able to reduce the thread tension on your machine? I suspect that very high tension may lead to puckering, in particular if you use 8mm zigzag and stitch length (4mm is probably plenty). Maybe you could try to reduce the stitch length as well?
Arne
(..the message should be easy to understand for you :-) ...)