I am back inside working in the 50 Deg F storage area for the winter.

I started with removing some stuff that I will not need for the Junk rig. The original rig for this boat had a mainsheet traveler right in the middle of the cockpit. I was sure I would eventually slip and get my leg broken walking around it while out on the water. Even when I did manage to jump over the traveler there were jam cleats and cam cleats on the backrest right where I would sit down. Ouch.

All that is removed and the cockpit feels much more comfortable even with cans of epoxy and other things in the way.

Now I am working on the deck layout. I am trying to decide if it would weaken the boat to put the hatch where the original mast was before. There is a big keel trunk for the lifting keel so I assume that some of the loads from the keel are transferred to the deck.

Does any one care to guess if putting a hatch in the location in the photos will compromise the strength of the boat?

Scott,
Maybe it's an idea to have a look at the dimensions of my Frøken Sørensen.  The dimensions of those boats are very similar.
Check this: 

https://bit.ly/3jBkOdY

Arne

Annie wrote:

Yes, that is exactly what happened with my fibreglass battens.  Equally irritatingy, I said to the suppliers that I wanted an equivalent stiffness to 2 x 1 douglas fir, but they were nothing like as stiff, when the arrived.

I don't recall the sail area of your new rig.  However, I was relieved to see you had gone for larger battens: I managed to bend a 38mm, T6 batten quite badly and another one slightly.  It rather put me off alloy battens, but most people have no problems with them.

My sail is 22 sqm. If I did the math right then PJR recommends spruce battens with a 1.125" section. I have given up on using metric for everything. I am using mixed units in my head and for paper calculations.

I just finished a weekend long sprint of ripping seams, cutting fabric and re-learning how to use my sewing machine. The new battens seem much better. There is some deflection but I think they have more stiffness than 1.125 inches of spruce.

I like this video. Watching the materials bend under load and how they fail was very educational for me. It seems that correct type of fiberglass or standard modulus carbon fiber tubes would be the best option. They are stiff but also flex and return to their original shape after extreme loads. Watching the aluminum tube buckle and fail was not very reassuring.

But in the end the only reasonable option for me was to go with what is available locally. I guess there are more people building commercial and industrial stuff out of 6061-T6 than unidirectional fiberglass where I live.

Anonymous wrote:

Kris wrote:

Scott,

I scroll back thru the conversation to the info regarding a lamp post. Does your post has an inspection door in the lower part? What you going to do about, if so? This is my case and I am not certain how to deal with it.

Hi Kris,

Your profile says that you are building one of Jerome Delaunay's designs. I like how his boats look as drawings. I hope you will share some build photos. The center cockpit scow with two masts looks especially interesting.

The short answer is that my lamp post does not have an inspection door.

The long answer is that I was able to avoid the issue with the inspection door after some persistence. The first two vendors I contacted stopped talking to me as soon as they found out I wanted to use the the lamp pole as a mast.

I tried to keep quiet about my intentions with a third vendor but eventually he told me that they can't sell a lamp pole without an inspection door. The inspection door is required by the NEC (National Electrical Code). I imagine that there are similar regulations in the EU.

However this third vendor was very happy to sell me a pole without a hand hole after I told him that I would not be using it for a lighting application. I had to sign several documents but in the end I was able to purchase a plain tapered 6063-T6 pole without any holes.

I remember seeing photos from at least one JRA member who purchased the pole longer than necessary and then cut off the lower section with the inspection door. If I remember correctly the mast on Ming Ming II was made this way.

Please understand that I have not yet built a functional junk rig with this pole. The most I have done is get the mast vertical in the tabernacle. I am not any sort of an expert or authority. With that said I think you have a few options.

1. If the pole is long enough cut off the lower section

2. Cut off the lower section and extend the upper section with wood or an alloy tube

2. Get a different pole

3. Add a sleeve inside the lower section or on the outside of the lower section

4. Determine, somehow, that the pole is strong enough with inspection door installed normally.

Thank you Scott for sharing the story. Lucky you and persistent enough. I went exactly thru the same, ending up in a whole-seller warehouse keeping mouth shut. Since I planned to use the tabernacle anyway, I think will make it higher then 10% and burry the part with a door, which is about a 1 meter. 

Regarding my new "ANNA LUCJA 2" i post frequently on my FB account ( https://www.facebook.com/kris.matuszewski.1 ), but of course along with other stuff.

Yeah, I must do better with the CARAVELINA topic here in the JRA site 

https://www.junkrigassociation.org/technical_forum/7917477#7926500

I  am very interested to watch your progress with the conversion and learn a lots from all the discussions. I am waiting for reports from the sea trials. 

Good luck

Kris

Scott wrote:

I ordered some more tube with this spec:

'Aluminum 1-3/4 OD X .065 WALL(1.620 ID) 6061-T6 EXT STRUCTURAL TUBE P1'

I hope I can make these work and also find a purpose for the floppy fiberglass tube. It is getting difficult to explain why I need all these long pieces hidden around the house and garage.

Possibly slight overkill with the diameter but you should have pretty bullet-proof battens. You could probably use the same tube as your boom. The tube should also be very light with that wall thickness, which makes a difference when it is time to hoist the sail.