Whipstaffs

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  • 22 Sep 2017 17:10
    Reply # 5275085 on 5268710

    The book " Principles of Yacht Design" says that the rudder area should be ~ 1.6% of the sail area, and with a single masted junk, we reckon these days that a little more wouldn't hurt. I make that 8 -9 sq ft - how does that compare with the existing rudder? I 'd scale up about a point on the rudder axis, so that a liitle is added to the leading edge, more to the trailing edge. Actually, the rudder profile shape is not bad as it is, just possibly too small and not far enough aft. An end plate may help a liitle, and it's an experiment that's easy enough to do, at little cost.

  • 22 Sep 2017 16:43
    Reply # 5275027 on 5268710
    Deleted user

    Thanks, David.  It is not as if the existing rudder is a disaster - it is not.  But it could do with just a bit more bite.  And it is 45 years since it was designed and built.  I was rather hoping that rudder design has advanced a bit since then.  As for scaling-up: would that be on the trailing-edge, and maybe downwards?  And what about these end-plates, as per Otterbelly, etc?  Is there anything in that for my boat?

  • 22 Sep 2017 15:52
    Reply # 5274852 on 5268710

    True, the rudder could be scaled up by about 10% or so, reusing the existing rudder shaft, but I suspect that the root of the problem is that it is not far enough aft to be acting in clear water, out of the wash from the keel and with maximum leverage.

  • 22 Sep 2017 15:41
    Reply # 5274841 on 5268710
    Deleted user

    OK, but might it be possible to modify the rudder to increase its power, without having to move the rudder stock from its present position?  And if so, what are these modifications going to be?  After all, the present rudder isn't so very far from the end of the waterline .....

  • 22 Sep 2017 15:29
    Reply # 5274833 on 5268710

    Looking at the profile of the boat, it seems to me that the correct solution is a properly designed rudder at the aft end of the waterline. I can't see how any modification to the wheel or tiller will help the basic problem, if the rudder is not effective enough to prevent the boat from rounding up.

    However, what I'd try as a short term measure is to fix that short tiller firmly in place, disconnect the wheel steering at the rudder quadrant (important to lose the friction and flywheel effect) and then add steering tackles: a pair of blocks at the end of the tiller, and a pair of thick, soft, easy to grip lines made fast to the cockpit sides and lead through the blocks, giving a 2:1 purchase, or the equivalent of a 5ft tiller.

    Last modified: 22 Sep 2017 15:43 | Anonymous member
  • 22 Sep 2017 12:44
    Reply # 5274701 on 5268710
    Deleted user

    The Webmaster has just put some pics of my cockpit and a drawing of the boat's underwater profile in my profile album .....

  • 21 Sep 2017 19:02
    Reply # 5273764 on 5268710
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Hi Iain

    What about showing us how the rear end of your boat looks like?

    Moreover, could you easily fit a temporary tiller? What prevents you from making it longer? What about a telescopic extension?

    Arne



    Last modified: 21 Sep 2017 19:03 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 21 Sep 2017 18:02
    Reply # 5273651 on 5268710
    Deleted user

    Reading Arne's latest post on end plates on this forum, and following-up his reference to Otter belly in no. 74 of the JRA magazine, maybe what I really need is a more powerful rudder, maybe just with end plates .......... .?????

  • 21 Sep 2017 06:45
    Reply # 5272734 on 5268710
    Deleted user

    Maybe a Whipstaff in the cockpit connected by lines to a short tiller off the rudder stock? It is the sort of thing you could experiment with at no great cost working out the best mechanical advantage.

  • 20 Sep 2017 21:34
    Reply # 5272125 on 5268710
    Deleted user

    I will post pics of the cockpit asap.  Perhaps, of course, the answer is to enhance the power of the rudder.  And that may eventually come to pass .....


    Meanwhile, however, I was looking for an easier solution, perhaps only in the short term.  Even with full rudder on, my boat will round-up before she is anywhere near rail-down: but if I simultaneously use the auxiliary rudder on the Hydrovane, the boat will hold here course.


    That suggests to me that the present under-hull spade rudder is underpowered.  I thought that a tiller might improve things in two ways.  First, it would allow a much faster response from the helmsman.  Second, it could be linked to lines to the short Hydrovane rudder - but, as I say in my original posting, any new tiller to the main rudder could only be 32 inches long, because in the middle of the cockpit is a turret, on which are mounted the engine controls, and inside of which are the hydraulic lines for the steering.


    Directional downwind stability in a boat is an immense blessing, and anything else is a curse! Right now, my boat is at the curse end of that spectrum, and I want to fix it.


    By the way, there is an emergency tiller on the boat, which is even shorter that 32 inches and a sloppy and loose slip-on (and slip-off) to the stock.  I don't have any faith in it, for some reason - but I will give it a try in light weather, an see what happens.  And I do remember just how well La Chica's rudder was improved .....

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