Newbie excitement turning into fear

  • 13 Jan 2017 16:46
    Reply # 4546559 on 4546542
    Phil Brown wrote:

    It allows the the base and pivot to be just a shallow box or socket. Or perhaps a hinge or pivot bolt would allow a somewhat larger mast. A hole through the mast base along with a locking clamp at the base would have minimal stress risk compared to one further up on the mast and would be easier to plug for additional re-enforcement, I think. (On my old cabin stepped stayed mast the hole in the step was vertically elongated to allow the mast pivot on the through bolt and on its heel and then set down on the step.)

    I see that we were both posting this idea at the same time, Phil. Yes, I think there is some merit in making a tabernacle this way, and I like the idea of vertically elongating the hole.
  • 13 Jan 2017 16:31
    Reply # 4546542 on 4515828
    Deleted user

    Btw, David Ty. presented a real Colombie-egg here, recently, by suggesting that the open U should face aft. On smaller boats, with fairly light masts, one can then just walk the mast up, right into the recess of the tabernacle.”

    I had to look up Colombie- egg but now I really know what it means. Duh! That allows the pivot to be at the base, so much simpler. It allows the the base and pivot to be just a shallow box or socket.

    With the beefy 2 sided tabernacle that Phil Bolger drew up, which worked fine for my square mast, I had to have a hefty U clamp at the base as well as a sizable bolt through the mast which was re-enforced with long 1/16 SS plates by the pivot.  The plus was its simplicity.  A drawback was the additional windage it presented.



    Last modified: 13 Jan 2017 16:51 | Deleted user
  • 13 Jan 2017 09:23
    Reply # 4545579 on 4515828
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    The fine thing with tabernacles is that they surround the mast, kind of. Since we know that the strength of any beam varies with the cube of its dimensions, it doesn’t take a rocket scientist to design a tabernacle at least as strong as the mast. Even an open U-shaped tabernacle should hold well. I guess I would add 2-3 “horse-shoes” of metal or plywood to support the open U-profile.

    Btw, David Ty. presented a real Colombie-egg here, recently, by suggesting that the open U should face aft. On smaller boats, with fairly light masts, one can then just walk the mast up, right into the recess of the tabernacle.

    Arne


  • 12 Jan 2017 22:42
    Reply # 4544794 on 4543802
    Scott Dufour wrote:

    I looked in my usual reference, David Gerr's "Elements of Boat Strength", as well as a few other places, and I can't find guidance for tabernacle scantlings.  I trust David's numbers, though.  Out of curiosity David, how do you calculate those? 

    Pure empiricism, in this case. But for a case where I hadn't got previous experience, I'd consider the diameter and wall thickness at partners level that a wooden mast to PJR scantlings would need to be, for the height and sail area under consideration, and then attempt to design something of equal strength.
  • 12 Jan 2017 13:37
    Reply # 4543802 on 4515828
    Deleted user

    I looked in my usual reference, David Gerr's "Elements of Boat Strength", as well as a few other places, and I can't find guidance for tabernacle scantlings.  I trust David's numbers, though.  Out of curiosity David, how do you calculate those? 

  • 11 Jan 2017 09:10
    Reply # 4535186 on 4533553
    Jami Jokinen wrote:
    Scott Dufour wrote:
    My tabernacles are usually like a U shaped tube (viewed from above), made from three pieces of good solid wood, with the inside corners filleted and glassed, the outside corners rounded off and glassed.  The deck is cut with a shaped hole just large enough to let the tabernacle in.  

    What kind and how thick should this wooden tabernacle be with a 6m mast?


    Ideally, you would use a tough hardwood, but much will depend on what you can find locally. A very slow-grown native pine would be suitable. The thickness should be about 22mm.
  • 10 Jan 2017 17:01
    Reply # 4533553 on 4529934
    Scott Dufour wrote:
    My tabernacles are usually like a U shaped tube (viewed from above), made from three pieces of good solid wood, with the inside corners filleted and glassed, the outside corners rounded off and glassed.  The deck is cut with a shaped hole just large enough to let the tabernacle in.  

    What kind and how thick should this wooden tabernacle be with a 6m mast?


  • 10 Jan 2017 15:39
    Reply # 4533335 on 4515828
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    (I elect to write this in this topic as it is specially for your boat, Jami)


    Jami and Annie

    choice of sailcloth

    From a sunrot perspective I would not be so afraid of using up my stock of Odyssey III (220g/m2). Remember, up here on 59-60° north, I bet UV-radiation is less of a problem than in NZ and Australia.


    However, if I were to make a new junksail, smaller than 20m2, I would look around for a lighter cloth, say 120-170g/m2. I found on Frøken Sørensen (20m2) that the Odyssey cloth was just a bit on the heavy (stiff) side, so the cambered panels were a bit reluctant to inflate in very light winds.


    On the 10sqm sail for my dinghy, Broremann, I used some light nylon (120g/sqm?), and that worked wonderfully well on that little boat (go to Youtube and search for Broremann)


    Arne


  • 10 Jan 2017 14:59
    Reply # 4533270 on 4515828
    Deleted user

    Actually, all this talk of tabernacles makes me wonder why I'm not building one into my 33' refit.  The option to lower my own mast, no crane needed, in remote areas if required seems to fit right into my design thoughts.  I think I'll start a new thread on that. 

  • 10 Jan 2017 13:51
    Reply # 4532418 on 4515828

    I came across a mast hinge detail on the 'Tammy Norrie' blog I don't know if this may be of help. There is a lot more detail there.

    https://tammynorie.wordpress.com/tag/mast-hinge/

    Last modified: 10 Jan 2017 17:29 | Anonymous member
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