Sarum 28 conversion

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  • 18 Aug 2022 10:21
    Reply # 12887584 on 12886519
    Hugh wrote:

    Is it typical for a conversion for there to be extra structural reinforcement due to the different pressures from the mast? Do you think the Sarum 28 would need any more than a reinforced mast step and mast holder in the hatch?

    Older GRP boats (that tended to be over-built), and metal boats, usually need only local reinforcement at the step and partners, though it's always reassuring to see bulkheads or ring frames stiffening up the hull and deck in this vicinity.

    But it's dangerous to generalise. Each case should really be looked at afresh by a shrewd and knowledgeable eye. I don't think that all Sarum 28s were fitted out alike, so at least some photos would be needed, to answer the second question.

  • 17 Aug 2022 20:12
    Reply # 12886950 on 12874530

    Following this thread with great interest. Thank you for all your comments. I'm finding them hugely inspiring - and reassuring!

    Logistical issues at my end mean I'm struggling to get to see the Sarum 28 I linked to, but I'll keep you informed.

    I'm also interested in the comments re. construction. As a new sailor, I'm thinking it would be better to have the extra safety margin of an aluminium boat for high latitude stuff for the times if/when I mess things up. Probably (almost certainly...) overkill I know but given there isn't too much of a cost penalty, I'm still thinking I should err on the side of caution.

  • 17 Aug 2022 14:47
    Reply # 12886519 on 12874530

    Yes good point about the hasler pram hood, you need all the senses to sail properly. I often wonder how boats enclosed with bimini or doghouse can see the sail to trim it properly.  Is it typical ofr a conversion for there to be extra structural reinforcement due to the different pressures feom the mast? do you think the Sarum 28 would need any more than a reinforced mast step and mast holder in the hatch?

  • 15 Aug 2022 11:48
    Reply # 12883844 on 12874530

    Not only condensation on the inside, but also salt spray on the outside of fixed windows, however good the doghouse design. OK, in an extremely small ocean going boat, it might very occasionally be wise to seal yourself inside, barrel-fashion; but the Sarum 28 is not that small and vulnerable to knockdowns. Only when one has experienced having one's eyes, ears and nose outside gathering all available information, and one's body inside in relative shelter, does the genius of the Hasler pramhood become apparent.

    Assuming that the layout includes a heads compartment to port, extending to the centreline as in the example that Hans-Erik found, then it would appear reasonable to offset the mast to port also, between the heads bulkhead and the forehatch, with a high AR rig. However, if it needs to go through the forehatch aperture, it should be straightforward to bolt a thick piece of aluminium plate in place of the forehatch, as a basis for the mast partners.

  • 15 Aug 2022 03:40
    Reply # 12883639 on 12874530

    In thick fog, with ice around, you hear it before you see it.  A radar cannot be guaranteed to pick up growlers.  Personally, I'd rather have the protection of my pramhood, and the use of my ears.  It can also be something of a mission, I should have thought, to stop the windows on a doghouse from steaming up.

    Of course, Roger Taylor had his enclosed little house, so it's each to their own.

  • 13 Aug 2022 22:12
    Reply # 12882799 on 12874530

    Hi, I have also found the Sarum 28 has caught my eye for more adventurous sailing as it is made of aluminium. Normally there are more for sale on the market, seems a bit quiet at the moment. Regarding the conversion to Junk rig, are you thinking the mast will go through the hul where the forward hatch is? have you investigated what work might need to be done for the structural integrity? also what an estimated budget might be for conversion?.  I think for higher latitude saling you might consider a doghouse.  I am interested to hear how you get on if you proceed, best of luck!

  • 11 Aug 2022 17:11
    Reply # 12880641 on 12874530

    My boat Miranda, an Etap 23i, had an offset mast. Because the mast was 4.5” in diameter in a 5” diameter socket, I used wedges at one side to tilt the mast back into the centreline. It has worked well for the last 9 years and few people notice. 

  • 11 Aug 2022 10:56
    Reply # 12880177 on 12874530
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    I don't disagree with David on this.
    Here is an attempt with AR=2.25 and with SA around 40sqm (and the CE in the same position). It should still outperform the Bermudarig, and be very easy to handle.

    But again, it depends on where you can step the mast.


  • 10 Aug 2022 17:09
    Reply # 12879331 on 12874530

    Indeed, putting the sail on the centreline and the mast just to one side of the centreline has several things to recommend it; not least, that the skipper gets a generously wide berth for use in harbour. 

    Thinking back to Chris and Jess Bray's exploits in Teleport, I think I'd rather have a robust aluminium hull underneath me for serious high latitude work.  And yet, for less-serious nudging of chunks of ice out of the way, I was quite comfortable with Tystie's robust wood/epoxy construction. As a generalisation, well-found vessels of any material can cope with conditions inside the Arctic Circle - in summer.

    I think I'd like to see a mast of the height that Arne has drawn, but with a sail of AR = 2.25 . I'd be satisfied with the resulting area of about 40sqm, for serious voyaging.

  • 08 Aug 2022 05:16
    Reply # 12876373 on 12874530

    Offset junk rig?  From personal experience, it is astonishing how few people even notice!  You see what you expect to see.

    And, should the sale fall through, there is no necessity to have a metal boat for high latitude sailing.  Any well-found boat will be quite suitable, unless you choose to winter over, frozen in the ice.

    Last modified: 08 Aug 2022 05:17 | Anonymous member
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