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Throat hauling parrel

  • 06 Jun 2012 21:54
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    Reply # 950478 on 937913
    Deleted user
    Well great to read all for those thoughts. I'll get back to you when I finally take the sail covers off and find out where I got to last year. Doesn't look as if it will be soon as the forecasr if for only 4 dry days in the rest of June...

    Re the parrel balls or whatever the're called, somewhere recently I came across an article about someone who used these and the balls simply disintegrated pretty quickly. On my pretty wide and tapering carbon fibre masts I'm sure they'd tend to go slack anyway.
  • 03 Jun 2012 01:35
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    Reply # 941344 on 937913
    Anonymous member
    Jonathan tried John Dinnin's parrel ball system during the Plymouth rally, and I hear that it was not a success. I expect he will report here when he can. It seems to me that it is used to best effect on small sails and parallel masts.

    Slieve mentions a "peaking parrel" in his chapter 11, which is intended to do the same job as a throat hauling parrel, I think. His combined downhaul and batten parrel system is very good at keeping a batten under control, where no luff hauling is needed (as on his sail with a low yard angle and a large balance area, and as on my wingsails, where I also have used it), but I don't think it has any place in a rig where luff hauling is needed. 

    No, I think that for most of our rigs, including HM and derivatives and fanned sails, we need an effective yard hauling parrel and an effective throat/upper luff hauling parrel. After that, we can use HK parrels, and extra luff hauling parrels, as and where they prove to be needed, but that will vary a lot, according to the boat and the sail type.
  • 02 Jun 2012 23:44
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    Reply # 941328 on 941326
    Anonymous member (Administrator)
    David Tyler wrote:Arne,
    As I write, I'm sailing happily along with just the new arrangement of throat hauling parrel working, the mid luff hauling parrel slack and not seeming to be needed ever, so it will probably be taken off again.
    And no creases in the sail.
    And enormous flocks of penguins flying past on either side.


    Good! So that throat h. parrel seems to be doing the job I once described (in NL58 p.24)then? I promise, in the near future I will slacken Broremann's HK parrels and see what happens.

    Arne

    Last modified: 02 Jun 2012 23:48 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 02 Jun 2012 23:35
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    Reply # 941326 on 937913
    Anonymous member
    Arne,
    As I write, I'm sailing happily along with just the new arrangement of throat hauling parrel working, the mid luff hauling parrel slack and not seeming to be needed ever, so it will probably be taken off again.
    And no creases in the sail.
    And enormous flocks of penguins flying past on either side.
  • 02 Jun 2012 23:25
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    Reply # 941323 on 937913
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

                                                                 Stavanger, Sunday, just

    David and Brian

    If your sails had not been fanned or (like my Johanna’s sail) needed to vary the balance, you could have solved the diagonal crease problem with John Dinnin’s simple short batten parrels with parrel beads (NL59 p.26) or with the very clever yet simple combined batten parrel-downhauls as described by Slieve.

    However, with the realities hindering you from using John’s or Slieve’s devices, I see only two possible ways to get every panel to set well all the time:

    1:   Fit a separate luff hauling parrel to each batten!

    ..or...

    2:   Fit Hong Kong Parrels, about 45° steep. In combination with a throat hauling parrel, they should keep the panels setting well with moderate load on the battens. If the battens still appear to bend under the load of the HK parrels, my hunch is that the battens are not strong enough for the job.

    All the Stavanger junks sail around with HK parrels and with well-setting, cambered batten panels. Only on Malena with her under-size battens do these battens bend.

    If you think that you eventually will get there by only playing with 1, 2 or 3 luff hauling parrels, I fear that the penguins in the Antarctic will learn to fly before you get those panels right.

    Your choice, gentlemen!

    Arne

    Last modified: 02 Jun 2012 23:26 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 01 Jun 2012 23:17
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    Reply # 940409 on 937913
    Deleted user
    Hi David

    I played that game last summer, and look forward to playing it again in a couple of weeks. I ended up with two luff parrels on the main (can't remember where at the mo') and just one on the foresail. I'll start with none this year and take it from there. Patience or tolerance seems to be the other name of the cambered panel game.
  • 01 Jun 2012 05:11
    Quote
    Reply # 939673 on 937913
    Anonymous member
    Today, I played that old game "Get The Creases Out Of the Sail". I moved the throat hauling parrel several times, always with the block on the yard, but with the end and the final block on different battens. I ended up with the best arrangement being with the end on batten 2 (from top) and the block on batten 3 (from top), no hauling parrel on top batten. This seems to give the most crease-free set, most of the time, and seemed a little easier to haul than the first arrangement. 
    Initially, I rigged a middle luff hauling parrel, then I took it off because it dragged too much, now I've put it back for the moment, to see if it helps to shift the creases. I'm not sure, either way.
    I don't get a slack luff on any of the upper panels, Arne. I think this is because of the weight of sail and battens. 
  • 31 May 2012 22:47
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    Reply # 939304 on 937913
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

                                                                        Stavanger, Thursday

    David, that new "double, upside-down" throat hauling parrel on Tystie surely looks powerful. I once tried a single upside-down luff hauling parrel on Johanna with the last block before the fall at the yard. It worked too, but the system sometimes left the luff of one panel a bit slack. It could be that the luff of your panel no. 3 from top may get a bit slack sometimes. Would it be an idea to move the bitter end of that parrel up from batten 4 to batten 3 (from top) and the last block before the fall down from batten 3 to batten 4? That should ensure a taut luff. Not a big deal; you will no doubt see if the change is needed or not.

    As for counting battens and panels from the bottom or from the top; I came into JR as late as in 1989 so I guess I am of the "PJR school" - I just follow the bible...

    Cheers, Arne

    PS: Broremann is back in the water! Small is beautiful!
  • 31 May 2012 05:50
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    Message # 937913
    Anonymous member
    Tystie is afloat and sailing again, bottom painted and battens mended.
    Today, I had a good sail of 10 miles or so, with three panels reefed in a strong wind. Nothing broke, I'm happy to say (give it time, give it time...)
    I'm trying out a new form of Throat Hauling Parrel that I've not seen used before. Its end is attached to one of the upper battens, and then it goes between the sail and mast, around the mast to a block attached to the heel of the yard, back around the mast parallel to the first turn, through a block on a batten, and to the deck.
    I have yet to decide exactly which two battens to include, but it seems to be better to leave out the top batten, which then falls away on starboard tack to put a very nice camber in the top two panels.
    The advantages are:
    1. there is a two part purchase pulling perpendicularly to the yard, which helps to peak it up better.
    2. the pull on the battens is more nearly along them, helping to pull them backwards and upwards, against the compression induced by leech tension.
    A photo is now in my "New Fantail sail" album.
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