Befur's Rig - Think Twice & Cut Once!

  • 21 Aug 2019 16:30
    Reply # 7841670 on 7835772

    thanks David :-)

  • 21 Aug 2019 15:42
    Reply # 7841603 on 7835772

    This is the nylon plug for the after end of the batten:

    https://junkrigassociation.org/Sys/PublicProfile/

    2757889/Photo/97381300/97610112/0?dh=0&cppr=4

    After gluing into the batten with superglue, I drill at 45 degrees upwards through the trumpet mouth and batten tube, 6.5mm dia for 4mm Dyneema sheet span.

  • 21 Aug 2019 14:40
    Reply # 7841501 on 7835772

    Thank you David and Paul, I understand now :-)

    As you say David the Ghoster Halyard seemed somewhat superfluous, but being a man of almost no experience, I figured I would make it as drawn, in case I was missing something important... I will, as you say, try rigging it with 180-deg rotation and see how we get on...

    David, I also remember liking the way you attached the sheet spans to the battens and sail, but failed to take a picture (or see it while we were in Brixham), do you have a picture/sketch/description you could share please....

    Busily attempting to complete a "rigging warrant" - my we seem to need a lot of rope!

  • 21 Aug 2019 00:36
    Reply # 7838772 on 7835772

    This is how I do it: See attached pic.

    1 file
  • 20 Aug 2019 14:40
    Reply # 7837644 on 7835772

    Not two halyards; two blocks for one halyard. In the case of a 3:1 halyard, that would be two single blocks, in place of PJR's double block. This is much kinder on the blocks and rope than the double block.

    So I would turn the fitting through 180, so that the ghoster halyard lug (ghoster halyard? This is an auxiliary sail for a steam boat!) is used for one of the halyard blocks and one of the topping lift lugs is for the other. The burgee halyard and mast lift lugs are then available for the lifts and are where I like to have them, athwartships.

    Last modified: 21 Aug 2019 08:22 | Anonymous member
  • 20 Aug 2019 10:12
    Reply # 7837281 on 7835772

    Thank you David...It would be really good if I could find a way to use this - it took a couple of days of machining to make!

    I am a bit confused by your "two halyards" comment - can you explain? As drawn in PJR there is only one (with a double block in my case). It is offset 30-degrees from astern on the port side (so it's above the yard I think...)...

    I have posted a new picture with the annotation as to the use of the lugs as drawn - clearly I can rotate the fitting to any orientation, and maybe I don't need the ghoster halyard ... All the lugs are the same size, so could be repurposed, but it seems that some of the lugs will be in a less-than-perfect position.... BUT if you have any suggestions as to how it could  be used, PLEASE tell me :-)

    Annotated Photo

  • 19 Aug 2019 19:12
    Reply # 7836192 on 7835772

    It's a lovely piece of machining, Malcolm - but I can't see what what makes it handed port and starboard? Whichever side the sail is rigged, I like to have two halyard blocks at 5 o'clock and 7 o'clock, with the final fall of the halyard coming from the block on the opposite side to the sail. There seem to be plenty of lugs for the lifts, after two have been reserved for the halyard.

  • 19 Aug 2019 15:31
    Message # 7835772

    Think Twice - Make Once!

    Well we are surrounded by sailcloth, blocks and battens as we start on the rig for Befur.... However, we have again learnt that lesson about finishing all your thinking before cutting metal...

    I made a mast-head fitting in line with the PJR design (fig 8.19 in the book) but machined from a solid billet of Aluminium, (for a ~90mm ali mast).

    However, we realised today that we actually need to rig the sail on the starboard side of the boat (to get the Halyard etc. on the port side and stow the sail bundle on the starboard side, over the steam plant)...

    GRRRR!

    So if anyone needs a port-sail masthead fitting then drop me a line! :-)

    Photo here....

    For the full story see sy-befur.co.uk 


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