HFJY34

  • 31 Oct 2021 21:33
    Reply # 12087399 on 7155071
    You're doing a lovely job, Frederik!  You must feel very pleased with your progress.
    Last modified: 31 Oct 2021 21:34 | Anonymous member
  • 29 Oct 2021 23:37
    Reply # 12083052 on 12082129
    Anonymous wrote
    Personally I was not very happy to see the less than great results when the boat was left unattended for 10 months.

    Makes me question if it would last for the claimed 10 years if one were, as I hope to be, a yearly rather than full time cruiser.
    From what was said, maybe put pool noodles next to the hull with a rope through to keep the sun off.... the pool noodles do degrade with sun of course so they may not last long enough to make them worth while. It does sound like the top 6 inches or so would be better protected from the sun, whatever coating was used. Depending on the hull shape they may make good bumpers to fend off floating stuff too.
  • 29 Oct 2021 16:27
    Reply # 12082129 on 12016893
    Anonymous wrote:

    Here some more info on the use of biocoat 3.3

    you'll have to scroll down the page to get to the topic.


    Or you can just click here and avoid all that scrolly schmolly stuff. ;-)

    Personally I was not very happy to see the less than great results when the boat was left unattended for 10 months.

    Makes me question if it would last for the claimed 10 years if one were, as I hope to be, a yearly rather than full time cruiser.
    Last modified: 29 Oct 2021 16:28 | Anonymous member
  • 27 Oct 2021 15:17
    Reply # 12016893 on 7155071

    Here some more info on the use of biocoat 3.3

    you'll have to scroll down the page to get to the topic.



    https://fossilfreearoundtheworld.org/blog/page/6/

  • 25 Oct 2021 13:51
    Reply # 11909024 on 7155071

    Hi Jan. The blogpost on the H28 is what got me started. All the boxes seemed to tick off. But I wanted something a bit bigger. So. Hurray for the internet. 

    I don’t  know why bionic technology have nothing the 3.3 on their site. I’ve been corresponding with Peter Hoefnagels of the yacht “Ya” (dries out at low tides) and he’s very happy. 

    Rudolf, I’ve sent you a mail with the data sheets. 

  • 25 Oct 2021 11:17
    Reply # 11903615 on 7155071

    https://www.bionictechnology.nl

    I can't see a product called 3.3 though. There's a Google Translate button at the top of the homepage if you don't speak Nederlands.

    The boat is looking amazing Frederik, pushing me in the direction of a HF28!


    Last modified: 25 Oct 2021 11:18 | Anonymous member
  • 25 Oct 2021 10:16
    Reply # 11901612 on 7155071

    Looking very good Frederik.

    I can't find info on the nanocoat you mention, could you give a link please?

    Rudolf

  • 23 Oct 2021 18:59
    Reply # 11821508 on 7155071

    Time for a shave. 

    Done painting for now. Cooked up some sexy grey with  white, black & yellow sigma 456

    the final coats below the waterline are Hempel Hard racing that I intend to sand smooth for a final layer of nanocoat called biocoat 3.3 from a firm in the Netherlands. 

    4 files
  • 05 Oct 2021 23:06
    Reply # 11143113 on 7155071
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Don't forget the 2-pot polyurethane (PU) paint.

    I’ve found 2-pot polyurethane paint or varnish to be very good. It appears to stick to anything from old topcoat, bare grp, glass-in-epoxy, and bare wood, and even bare aluminium.
    I painted the deck and topsides on Malena (1990-91) and the hull stayed clean and shiny without the normal need for scrubbing and polishing. The paint crept into any crack or void  -  I actually painted  the deck of Malena watertight.

    The second (wooden) mast of Malena was first covered in West epoxy and then given 6--7(?) coats of West’s own polyurethane, clear varnish. After about 13-14 years, one could see that the sunny side of the mast was starting to delaminate. I think the varnish was still ok, but it had let through enough UV rays to kill the epoxy.
    Therefore, when finishing Johanna’s mast after the same glass-epoxy sheathing, I used a white paint version of  2-pot PU-paint (not from West).
    Broremann’s wooden mast and the wooden top mast sections of Frøken Sørensen and Ingeborg were painted in either clear or white 2-pot PU, with no glass or epoxy involved (except in the metal-wood joints). Ingeborg first got five coats of clear varnish and then three coats of white. Upon inspection of the top mast this summer, I found this coating (5 years old) to be like new.

    An experiment: We found a piece of plywood and glassed half of a strip of glass tape to it, using PU paint as resin. The paint sucked in and bonded perfectly well to the plywood.
    Conclusion: If I ever am to do a small glass sheathing job, I will use PU as resin. It sticks like glue (it is glue), it is tough without getting brittle, and it resists UV very well.

    Arne


    Last modified: 06 Oct 2021 10:52 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 05 Oct 2021 20:20
    Reply # 11142693 on 7155071

    From what I’ve gathered, it’s a bad idea to mix epoxy and polyester in the same laminate. 

    It’s “either or”.

    I’m painting these days and sigma epoxy paints make the polyester job pleasant one in retrospect. 

    Last modified: 05 Oct 2021 20:23 | Anonymous member
       " ...there is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing as simply messing about in junk-rigged boats" 
                                                               - the Chinese Water Rat

                                                              Site contents © the Junk Rig Association and/or individual authors

Powered by Wild Apricot Membership Software