HFJY34

  • 27 Oct 2023 18:19
    Reply # 13272434 on 13272285
    Tony wrote:!Well, thank you Frederik :) I had a great time!

    Hi Tony,

    I really enjoyed the video. Seeing the boat shed, the boat and the boat builder in a video really helped me understand how massive an undertaking it is to build a boat like this.

    Everything is looking great, Frederik! Is it correct that the fiberglass is polyester and not epoxy?


    Last modified: 27 Oct 2023 18:21 | Anonymous member
  • 27 Oct 2023 09:51
    Reply # 13272285 on 13272255
    Anonymous wrote:

    Tony Brown visited with his camera. Have a look. 

    https://youtu.be/9I3e-Qxcvjk?si=5CTKCeh-AMcxDOJY


    Thanks, Tony!

    Well, thank you Frederik :) I had a great time!
  • 27 Oct 2023 07:06
    Reply # 13272255 on 7155071

    Tony Brown visited with his camera. Have a look. 

    https://youtu.be/9I3e-Qxcvjk?si=5CTKCeh-AMcxDOJY


    Thanks, Tony!

  • 25 Sep 2023 10:54
    Reply # 13258644 on 7155071

    Like the simple heavy duty DIY bracket, but how will reverse work? 
    i find a steerable outboard very useful. That said, steering it and looking where you are going can be a bit fraught if single handed!  The best are the small outboards that turn through 360, amazing when reversing. 

  • 21 Sep 2023 13:05
    Reply # 13257354 on 7155071

    Len. I’ll use only the rudder for steering. 
    We’ll see how it goes. If not satisfactory, then we’ll have the option of an extra outboard in the well on the opposite site of the centerline. That should do the job. 

  • 20 Sep 2023 21:02
    Reply # 13257065 on 13255463
    Anonymous wrote:

    I’ll remove the tiller and gearshift from the outboard and use a remote control box. 

    Remote controls are best for sure. I prefer controls that have shift and speed  (throttle has less meaning any more) as separate levers but that is likely because I tend to use older motors with a real carb in them. 2 strokes like to start with a higher speed anyway and besides that tend to stall out if run at idle for any length of time. The 4stroke I have, has an accelerator pump which allows starting without choke even when cold if I can pump the throttle a bit. Any trouble like a failing spark plug, failing spark sensors, etc. can show up just when you need the motor to keep running and a higher rpm idle can mean keeping the motor running long enough to get from idle to in gear and home (once the motor warms up many troubles go away till shut down). Single lever controls are fine for new motors... until they grow old. I like the feel of dual controls as well. I don't like the huge dead space in the middle. Electric motor controls are a whole different deal of course, out of my price range for now (not the controls but the motor).

    Will you be using the outboard for steering as well? or just use your rudder? I have wished for a motor I can turn sideways at dock when the boat ahead and behind are rather close but am beginning to think I will just move the boat by hand as I did last time we went out when we were on the inside of a raft. A linkage from rudder to outboard might be a challenge.

    Last modified: 20 Sep 2023 21:09 | Anonymous member
  • 17 Sep 2023 07:33
    Reply # 13255463 on 7155071

    The ladder is there to put another bracket on for another outboard if I decide we need more power. Electric maybe? Could also be used as generator when sailing.

    Or just a ladder..

    I’ll remove the tiller and gearshift from the outboard and use a remote control box. 

    Still have to do the cut out(s). Seem to postpone that for some reason.

    2 files
    Last modified: 17 Sep 2023 07:38 | Anonymous member
  • 17 Sep 2023 03:28
    Reply # 13255447 on 7155071

    I like the ladder beside the outboard. The work is progressing well.

  • 15 Sep 2023 21:55
    Reply # 13255181 on 7155071

    Scott, fir is fine too. The okume in the deck is lighter and good to paint. Fir ply not so. The inside layer of the hull is sapele ply. The choice of ply was/is up to me.  

    I’ve used fir ply as the second layer for the hull and second/third layer on the bottom & fiberglassed that. 
    I’ve been lucky to get most of the materials before the prices went up. The lycell I stumbled across…could have been airex or Dyvinicell as well. 
    The deck construction is according to the plans. I just went one size up. 1/2” ply and 5/8” foam instead of 3/8” ply + 1/2” foam. 

    Last modified: 15 Sep 2023 22:01 | Anonymous member
  • 15 Sep 2023 21:42
    Reply # 13255173 on 13254836
    Frederik wrote:

    (12 mm okume ply +14 mm lycell foam) and glassed.

    Frederik, 

    Thank you for posting an update, the aft deck and tiller look wonderful.

    Will you please tell me if the okume ply and lycell foam are specificed in the plans from Chris Morejohn? I thought, it seems mistakenly, that his designs were all fir, fir plywood and fiberglass. I briefly looked for okume (okoume?) marine plywood and was shocked by the cost. Lycell foam is also not an inexpensive material.

    Last modified: 15 Sep 2023 21:43 | Anonymous member
       " ...there is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing as simply messing about in junk-rigged boats" 
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