Windvane selfsteering gear questions

<< First  < Prev   ...   4   5   6   7   8   Next >  Last >> 
  • 12 Aug 2011 05:11
    Reply # 674483 on 673518
    A word about installing any kind of pendulum vane gear:
    They work a little better if the aft end is tilted up very slightly, no more than 5 degrees. This has two consequences:
    • the blade then trails, adding a small tendency to self-centre, which adds stability to the steering.
    • the angle of the vane output axis is changed. The axis is usually inclined by up to 20 degrees, to add some negative feedback - the more the vane is blown over, the less its angle of incidence to the wind, and so its power decreases. This adds stability to the steering. But, a boat sailing to windward has inherently stable steering, and this effect is not needed, and in any case, the normal heeling adds all the inclination of the vane axis to the wind that will ever be necessary. Off the wind, a boat has inherently unstable steering, and more vane axis inclination, hence more negative feedback, is desirable. Inclining the whole gear vane forward, blade aft, sees to all of this, very elegantly. 
    Inclining the whole gear the other way, so that the blade has its tip pointing forwards into the water flow, has disastrous consequences. I once had to sort out a boat with a Hasler gear where the aft end drooped by something over 5 degrees, and it simply would not steer - the servo pendulum just powered out to one side or the other until it hit the stops. Raising the aft end up to horizontal, or above, cured the problem.

    My home built gear exhibits two different angles to the vane's course setting axis and the servo power axis, because they are separate units, linked by dyneema cords. 

    • The vane's course setting axis is inclined forwards by 5 degrees, with the inclined axis being at 75 degrees to it. Thus, when the boat is running, the vane's output axis is inclined by 20 degrees to the wind, and when close hauled, the output axis is inclined at an angle less than 15 degrees to the boat's horizontal, but plus part of the angle of heel.
    • The servos have their output axis at a 30 degrees to horizontal, and so there is a strong tendency for them to self centre. This has the effect of making the boat run very straight - unless the vane feels a different apparent wind and inputs an instruction to change course. This is an extreme case of beneficial trailing action , and needs a big vane, with a reduction ratio of 2:1, to make it work well (commercial gears have a smaller vane, with a reduction ratio of around 3:1 - 45 degrees of vane rotation gives 15 degrees of servo rotation).
    PS At least one of the commercial vane gear makers has realised the benefit of servo inclination - look at http://windpilot.com/n/wind/en/prod
    Last modified: 12 Aug 2011 05:19 | Anonymous member
  • 12 Aug 2011 02:35
    Reply # 674391 on 673518
    Paul,
    Over the last 40 years, I've sailed with pendulums, trim tabs, auxiliary rudders; and vertical axis, inclined axis and horizontal axis vanes. My first choice would always be an inclined axis vane driving a pendulum, where the boat and her layout permit.  An auxiliary rudder (eg Hydrovane) would be preferred where the rudder and wheel mechanism are stiff, or the wheel acts like a flywheel. A trimtab and vertical axis vane would be well down the list. It's no accident that the best-liked gears (Aries, Monitor, Cape Horn) are of the first type, but that there are also good opinions of the auxiliary rudder type. The natural selection process has been at work, and the trim tab is on the way to joining the Dodo.

    Some thoughts about trim tab gears:
    • They never steer as well as pendulum gears. This is principally because they rotate in the opposite sense to the rudder, and thus they reduce the effectiveness of the rudder. I found this when Tystie had a trim tab - the tiller would be up at a huge angle, going to windward, a much greater angle than when steering by hand, resulting in as much braking as steering.
    • They need an exceptionally freely turning rudder to work well.
    • Given that the correct negative feedback is put in, by having the linkage to the tab tiller at the correct distance aft of the rudder axis for the characteristics of the boat being steered, steering can be reasonably stable in good conditions, but in a seaway, a pendulum is better because it senses that a yaw is starting and immediately tries to correct the course. 
    • They steer adequately on long-keeled boats like La Chica, but never as well as a pendulum.
    • The trim tab unit is likely to weigh as much as a well-designed pendulum like the Cape Horn.
    • It's a continuing job to keep the barnacles and other wildlife out of an underwater bearing, and the slot between trim tab and rudder. 
    • They are less vulnerable to floating weed and lines.

    Some thoughts about vanes:
    • The vane unit with all its mountings is likely to weigh the same, whether it's driving a trim tab or a pendulum.
    • A  vertical axis vane always has to be much bigger than a horizontal axis vane, and this will become a serious problem on a short-ended, two-masted JR boat, with the need to have the after sail sheeted far aft. At times, the sheet and vane are going to intertwine, and I wouldn't want to have to unwrap the sheet from a big high vertical axis vane in a sloppy seaway.
    • A vertical axis vane can easily its have course setting line lead forward to the hatch, using the worm and wheel method of the Hasler and some later gears.
    • Vertical axis vanes and trim tab gears only go together because it's the easiest system to visualise, understand, design and make. A horizontal, or inclined, axis vane will always give a better result, with both trim tab and pendulum, but involves more work in designing and making the linkages. 
    Given that you have a Cape Horn gear all ready to install (I'm guessing that it's the Varuna model, meant for boats with external rudders), given its good track record, and given that you want to be afloat and sailing at the end of the year, I wouldn't be giving the matter any more thought than how to install it well, with convenient course setting, convenient connection to the tiller and some protection from the mainsheet, if possible. 
  • 11 Aug 2011 19:34
    Reply # 674131 on 673518
    Deleted user
    Here is another site that may be of some interest for self-steering ideas
    http://www.windautopilot.de/_de/7_dy_area/WaltMurray/WaltMurray.html

  • 11 Aug 2011 15:51
    Reply # 674013 on 673518
    Deleted user
    Paul, do you have Bill Belcher's "Wind-vane Self Steering" book?
    He concludes horizontal wind vane works best for trim tabs because of the difficulty in building a remote steering linkage with a vertical. 
  • 11 Aug 2011 12:10
    Reply # 673924 on 673518
    This is not the answer to Paul's specific question, but perhaps of some interest to anyone considering a wind vane self steering gear more generally, our Hydrovane is wonderful.  We originally mounted it on our 25 foot boat and then transfered it to the current 32 foot boat, both of which had inboard rudders and transom sterns, which is perhaps the easiest mounting arrangement.  However, brackets are available for the Hydrovane for any stern and rudder arrangement.  We will transfer it to the fifty footer when we get it .... ! It is heavier than I would  have liked but that is the price to be paid for what is a piece of bomb proof engineering.  Our model can be adjusted remotely.  Provided that the current tack has the tiller or wheel secured amidships and that the sea is calm, the course adjustment can be used to tack the boat remotely from the hatch.  In practice, however, I have to date generally not bothered with the remote control line because it would be a little awkward to have it running up the centre or around the cockpit, but use the pulley for the remote control line like a mini steering wheel to make course adjustments.  Because it has a totally separate rudder which is not connected to the tiller or wheel, it provides a back up rudder and tiller system.  It steers the boat very well on all points of sail in all wind conditions, except for the very slight winds from astern when it may be necessary to turn to a reach to achieve a stable course, but that would be expected from any wind vane system which works on apparent wind.  You can mount a tiller autopilot onto the Hydrovane tiller rather than the main tiller and, as in the wind vane operation, set the main tiller or wheel to make the main rudder do the bulk of the steering and the Hydrovane rudder to make the continuous minor corrections, this gaining a mechanical advantage for a small electrically driven tiller autopilot.  The Hydrovane is not cheap, but an old second hand model could still be good.  The vane was designed and made in Nottingham, and even though the company has been sold to a Canadian family business, the whole apparatus is still assembled by one man in a cellar workshop in Nottingham and all parts are still available.  As for Jeff not requiring a wind vane on a lake, I understand that the lake is sizeable, but more importantly, being on your own boat steered by a wind vane is one of this life's great experiences.  jds
  • 11 Aug 2011 02:46
    Reply # 673673 on 673518
    Deleted user
    Paul,
    I have nothing to contribute to this question but am immensely curious.
    Seablossom is, like La Chica, a double-ender, even shorter, and has a stern mounted rudder. She has Monitor wind vane brackets. Of course, I don't need a wind cane on my lake, but it is a very interesting thought to me nonetheless.
  • 10 Aug 2011 21:24
    Message # 673518
    Hi Guys,

    While the subject is not a strictly junk rig subject, it is most certainly related especially for those who voyage with their boats and so I thought I'd bring it up here.

    I'd like some input from people who have sailed with windvane  selfsteering systems. Ideally people with experience with both  trimtab and pendulum servo gears.

    I have sailed quite a few thousand miles with a Monitor servo pendulum gear and it works well and I have no complaints about its performance. However it is heavy and La Chica is small at 32ft even if heavy displacement. I am trying to reduce weight in the ends of the boat because like most double ender's, La Chica is inclined to hobbyhorse if the ends get to heavy.

    To this end I purchased a Cape Horn servo pendulum gear which is considerably lighter than the Monitor and has as good a track record. However, La Chica has an outboard rudder that lends it's self to a trimtab gear and it strikes me that I could reduce weight further and simplify things by going the trimtab route. I do however have no direct experience's of the system.

    My concern is not performance as I'm sure that La Chica will sail well under either type of gear. I'm more concerned about course adjustment from my Hasler hatch.  

    For example, with the Monitor (and it would be the same for the Cape Horn) once the steering lines have been connected to the tiller, I can adjust my course, tack or jibe the boat just by using the course setting line. I do not see how this could be done with a vertical axis vane and a trim tab. Of cause I do realise that if I use a horizontal vane (as do the Monitor and Cape Horn), that i could get the trimtab gear to work in the same manner but somehow trimtab gears and vertical axis vanes seem to go together. That of cause could just be my imagination :-)

    David, I'd particularly like your take on this as I know that you have a lot of experience's with windvane gears, both in design, fabrication  and sailing with them.
<< First  < Prev   ...   4   5   6   7   8   Next >  Last >> 
       " ...there is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing as simply messing about in junk-rigged boats" 
                                                               - the Chinese Water Rat

                                                              Site contents © the Junk Rig Association and/or individual authors

Powered by Wild Apricot Membership Software