Forgot password

Mix of Poppy and Ping Pong

<< First  < Prev   1   2   Next >  Last >> 
  • 07 Aug 2012 10:38
    Quote
    Reply # 1040696 on 1040607
    Anonymous member
    Paul Thompson wrote:Anthony, my pleasure.

    By the way did you put the camber in using Arne's method? I ask because I see no seams. BTW, I also used ripstop for my dinghy sails.
    Yes, camber was achieved by Arne's method throughout.  The material was 64in wide, so no seams were needed.  I thought I could get away with it being so thin by having it supported by webbing on all sides.  All ties, etc, go through the webbing, rather than the sail material

    I also stole Arne's idea for a webbing masthead fitting, which I made myself and works well.  Sheetlets are attached to 2mm Dyneema loops threaded through holes in the ends of the bamboo battens. I originally made two prototype jib panels using Slieve's 45-degree shelves, but I think I must have got the figures wrong, because they didn't have nearly enough camber.  Being an impatient type, I then used the 'empirical' method of making a template in lining paper, flattening it out, and using it as a cutting guide

    As you can see, the camber is way forward in jibs and main panels; in fact there is no camber in the main panels aft of 60 percent.  Everything has been exaggerated, on the grounds that I can always take material out, but putting more in would be tedious.

    There are 42 tell-tales dotted around the sails, to get an idea of the airflow in various attitudes to the wind. It's early days yet, but what astonished the sailmaker (and me!) was that this tubby old girl will happily make progress tacking against the tide in about 4 knots of wind...

    Anthony
  • 07 Aug 2012 09:00
    Quote
    Reply # 1040607 on 533615
    Anonymous member
    Anthony, my pleasure.

    By the way did you put the camber in using Arne's method? I ask because I see no seams. BTW, I also used ripstop for my dinghy sails.
  • 07 Aug 2012 07:13
    Quote
    Reply # 1040562 on 1040391
    Anonymous member
    Paul Thompson wrote:Hi Anthony,

    When I downloaded and opened your image with the GIMP, the first thing it offered to do was rotate the image for me. I then saved the rotated image. I use Linux (Ubuntu 12.04 LTS) so don't know if it works quite the same under Windows...
    Hi Paul - that's done the trick.  Many thanks for your help.
    Anthony
  • 07 Aug 2012 01:34
    Quote
    Reply # 1040391 on 533615
    Anonymous member
    Hi Anthony,

    When I downloaded and opened your image with the GIMP, the first thing it offered to do was rotate the image for me. I then saved the rotated image. I use Linux (Ubuntu 12.04 LTS) so don't know if it works quite the same under Windows. But to do it manually, looking at the menubar (top row of menu options) click on "Image" then "Transform" (third from top for me) then select  " Rotate 90 deg clockwise" that will rotate the image. Then do a save as....

    Here's a link to the rotated image if you want to save yourself the effort:

    Rotated image

    Hope the above helps. If you Google, you'll find lots of tutorials on the web for GIMP.
    Last modified: 07 Aug 2012 01:36 | Anonymous member
  • 06 Aug 2012 21:58
    Quote
    Reply # 1040262 on 1040157
    Anonymous member
    Paul Thompson wrote:
    Anthony Cook wrote:I have added a couple of pics of the recently-completed split rig on my dayboat. (Haven't yet figured out how to make photos taken in portrait mode display in landscape...)

     Anthony, a nice job! Well done :-) As to photo's, you need to rotate them in am image processing program (GIMP (is free gpl'ed), Photoshop etc) before you upload. I think Piscasa will do it for you also.
    Hi Paul - thanks.  I have Picasa 3, which apparently can't change the aspect. 
    It can, of course, rotate the image, but the file is still in portrait format.  I have downloaded Gimp, but still can't find a feature which will change the aspect.  Any advice will be welcome.
  • 06 Aug 2012 20:21
    Quote
    Reply # 1040157 on 1039926
    Anonymous member
    Anthony Cook wrote:I have added a couple of pics of the recently-completed split rig on my dayboat. (Haven't yet figured out how to make photos taken in portrait mode display in landscape...)

     Anthony, a nice job! Well done :-) As to photo's, you need to rotate them in am image processing program (GIMP (is free gpl'ed), Photoshop etc) before you upload. I think Piscasa will do it for you also.
  • 06 Aug 2012 16:03
    Quote
    Reply # 1039926 on 533615
    Anonymous member
    I have added a couple of pics of the recently-completed split rig on my dayboat. (Haven't yet figured out how to make photos taken in portrait mode display in landscape...)

    Buffy is a 15ft 6in Clovelly Picarooner, built for me by Martin Heard of Mylor in 1987.  She is a 750lb centreboarder and originally had a 120sq ft gaff rig, with 3ft bowsprit - very pretty, but deadly slow.  The new rig is 180sq ft, and shamelessly uses most of Slieve's ideas, except that the jibs are roughly twice as long as they are deep, and there are separate jibs for all panels.

    Sail material is lightweight ripstop nylon and was build in 14 separate panels.  Luffs and leaches are of car seatbelt webbing and the panels are stitched horizontally to one-inch webbing - the idea being that any panel can be detached and re-cut in the light of experience.  Battens are all of 13ft 4in bamboo, configured in a low-aspect arrangement and the sails are fixed to them with plastic cable ties. (This was done because I was anxious to get on the water, but they are hard on the hands and will probably be replaced with individual lashings in due course.)

    The foot of the mast has a slot, which rests on a bronze T-bar, and it, and the partners, can slide fore and aft for about 12 inches, should this be necessary, although not under way!  Currently the new mast is 4 inches further back than the original.

    How does she sail - like a dream.  Obviously she is now well over-canvassed and one has to be ready to reef smartly, but short-tacking is a pleasure and her upwind performance had my local sailmaker gaping. Downwind, of course, she flies, and will probably need a bigger rudder.

    Further tests are ongoing and when I get the rig optimised, I may well have a scaled-up version made for Zuleika Louise.
  • 01 Mar 2011 21:44
    Quote
    Reply # 535667 on 533615
    Anonymous member
    Jef,
    Parrel beads, or mast hoops, as used on gaff rigs, would certainly be an easy way of holding the "mainsail"  to the mast, and would slide well.
    But I would like to sleeve the luff for aerodynamic reasons, to make the mainsail work better, and to remove the parasitic drag of the mast, and I would accept the extra friction in exchange for the benefits.

    Have a look at a sketch "split rig ketch", that I have just put into "David's Doodles", in Box, to see if there is anything that you might be able to use in your rig.
    David.
  • 28 Feb 2011 17:56
    Quote
    Reply # 534638 on 533615
    Deleted user

    Thanks to Slieve and David Tyler for their comments.

    Have in mind to change my plan due to their comments as follows:

    1. Make the planform in such a way that i can easily remove the 2 top panels to find out what works best, eliptical or an inclined yard. Not only for the performance but also for the ease of handling.

    2. Make one set of battens in one piece, and other set with split swinging battens.I like the symmetry in the sail. Made this afternoon a clip for such a split batten ,took only 2hours.

     3. Findsomething to keep the luff of the mainsail  part against the mast.Because i already made the hollow wooden mast covered wirth a layer of carbon, i cannot make a slit in it. Wonder if a luff sleeve is not in the way when reefing one or two panels.Maybe a rope with beads on it ,like on the old fisherman boats is a solution?

    Jef Verhaar
  • 28 Feb 2011 02:53
    Quote
    Reply # 534280 on 533615
    Anonymous member
    jef verhaar wrote:


    3.Cut the battens where they touch the mast and reconnect them with a carbon clip in the form of 2 omega's. They swing  round the mast, and I can avoid hongkong and batten parrels.

    Jef Verhaar.

     

     

    Jef,
    Now that we have you, Barry and Meps, and Pete Hill all interested in building split rigs, I started thinking what I would do if I built one. I came to the conclusion that I would really like symmetry, side-to-side, and a sleeve luff on the mainsail part. I like the idea of splitting the batten into two parts that can be assembled around the mast, with a bearing such as I use on my wingsails, so that no parrels are needed. I wonder if it enough to bend one batten tube into an Omega shape to pass the mast? 
    I would add a sleeve luff, in sections, between the battens, that were about two-thirds of the height between battens. I found long ago that a full length sleeve luff is no good for a cruising boat - too much drag when hoisting and lowering. But the gain in fairing in the luff of the "mainsail" might be worth the frictional drag of short sections of sleeve luff?
    David.
    Last modified: 28 Feb 2011 02:53 | Anonymous member
<< First  < Prev   1   2   Next >  Last >> 
       " ...there is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing as simply messing about in junk-rigged boats" 
                                                               - the Chinese Water Rat

                                                              Site contents © the Junk Rig Association and/or individual authors

Powered by Wild Apricot Membership Software