Garhauer blocks, and 50sqm halyard layout

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  • 31 Oct 2017 16:21
    Reply # 5468156 on 5313611
    Annie I'm glad that a good old Scottish word is the cause of daylight reaching a page or two in your OED!! Amanda keeps on asking for the Whole Set for the next 20 birthdays or so. If we had them I'm sure we'd get nothing done (though what an nice excuse for getting thin and being branded anti-social!)

    Imagine finding a patent block under your garden! Better than the usual gate hook or old bedstead. It was interesting to see the catalogue drawing of one....

  • 24 Oct 2017 10:55
    Reply # 5334704 on 5313611

    When I was living at Warsash, I dug up out of the garden an old Merriman block (recognisable by the trident trademark). Back in the between-the-wars golden era of J class racing, many of the locals would have been engaged as crew, and I daresay one of them "liberated" a block. This one had a bronze sheave, a very small number of bronze rollers (drawing out the geometry, I think the minimum number must be six), a bronze bush, ash cheeks and an iron strap. I cleaned it up, and it was still in working order, though not fit for active service - I eventually sold it. 

    [edit] There were five rollers - there's a picture of this style of block on page 4 of the 1928 Merriman catalogue.

    Last modified: 24 Oct 2017 11:05 | Anonymous member
  • 23 Oct 2017 21:45
    Reply # 5333906 on 5325447
    POL BERGIUS wrote:

    Annie either little springs or short lengths of flexible pipe (PJR) would help. And I see from various photos that junkies often spread the maybe three single blocks out a bit presumably to help spread the fankle! A clear aft deck even on a 30 footer seems so hard to achieve. I like your basic little horse. I may be just too tall to make much difference though!

    I'm sure we had roller bearing blocks on the 1911 Bristol pilot cutter, on the topping lift and peak halyard purchases. Although we always thought that they were original (all her blocks had very much the same feel about them) we also thought that it might have been unlikely, but given what you say, Arne, about Mr Archer's specs way back then it may not be so unlikely after all.

    Cheers,

    Pol.

    Fankle, what a splendid word.  I had to look it up in the OED and it's not often I have to do that.  I have to say that our sheet horse did nothing to keep the sheets away from one's head.  We just learnt to duck when gybing.  It's really important that you have nothing around that can snag them.  For quite some time, we had them secured at deck level.  I don't recall now, why we made the horse - I guess it seemed like a good idea at the time.

    As to patent blocks have bearings in them, I remember reading about the Thames barges hauling up their sails and the 'click-click' sound made by the patent blocks (presumably as the balls fell in the bearing), so they have obviously been around a long time.  Colin Frake at Faversham probably still makes them the same way!!


  • 22 Oct 2017 12:15
    Reply # 5325447 on 5313611
    David I suppose my little scales (up to 75kg I think) would do if I used a small tackle to reduce the weight on it. Good idea. After all it is the change in pull on that halyard that is of interest really rather than the actual value I suppose, although we'd get a failrly good idea of that too.

    Annie either little springs or short lengths of flexible pipe (PJR) would help. And I see from various photos that junkies often spread the maybe three single blocks out a bit presumably to help spread the fankle! A clear aft deck even on a 30 footer seems so hard to achieve. I like your basic little horse. I may be just too tall to make much difference though!

    I'm sure we had roller bearing blocks on the 1911 Bristol pilot cutter, on the topping lift and peak halyard purchases. Although we always thought that they were original (all her blocks had very much the same feel about them) we also thought that it might have been unlikely, but given what you say, Arne, about Mr Archer's specs way back then it may not be so unlikely after all.

    Cheers,

    Pol.

  • 22 Oct 2017 09:05
    Reply # 5325381 on 5313611
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Me neither, Annie. However, most of the boats with gaffrigs that I have been on board, have not had very fancy halyard blocks, so friction was a big part of the game.

    A friend of mine who built and launched a 40’/20ton ferro Colin Archer in 1979, sailed all years with plain bearing blocks. Only last summer did he replace the original sheaves with tailor-made sheaves with ss. steel ball bearings for halyards and sheets. That made a lot of difference.

    Personally, I have never bothered with ball bearing blocks for the sheets. On my smallish boats and with only 3:1 purchase, I don’t sense a friction problem there.

    Arne

    PS: Colin Archer actually specified ‘patent blocks’ , i.e. with roller bearings for the halyards of some of his boats. That was 120-130 years ago...


    Last modified: 22 Oct 2017 09:06 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 21 Oct 2017 23:40
    Reply # 5325135 on 5324501
    Arne Kverneland wrote:

     My guess is that the peak halyard of a gaff sail takes quite a bit more load than the JR (..but not that much more...

    I'm not sure about that, Arne.  I've never had a problem setting a junk sail, but I had a real problem to harden the peak halyard on Iron Bark's mainsail, when we were close-hauled.  I couldn't manage it at all, if it were reefed.
  • 21 Oct 2017 23:37
    Reply # 5325133 on 5324084
    POL BERGIUS wrote:Thanks a lot David. We have no pushpit so the sheets will finish on the deck. The helmsman's hat may need a lanyard ;)
    Could you make a little horse like this:

    Fitting springs at the base of the blocks keeps them upright.  Don't be tempted to use swivel blocks, however much your sheet tries to twist up in its early days.
  • 21 Oct 2017 23:32
    Reply # 5325130 on 5323661
    David Tyler wrote:

    At one time, I had Barton ball bearing blocks, size 6 or 7, in Tystie's sheet. Eventually the Delrin balls went square ( or rather, cubic) and then fell out. Even when the load is not static, they don't seem to have a very long life. And cubic balls don't rotate as well as spherical ones, even if they don't fall out :-)


    To me, if I were doing ocean miles, that would be the reason to go for the Garhauer blocks on the sheets.  They would no doubt be astonished to see that they had worn out, from constant motion over thousands of miles, but they would still replace them!!
  • 21 Oct 2017 11:02
    Reply # 5324549 on 5313611

    I think you'd need a 250kg spring balance or load cell for a big sail and a 3:1 halyard. In this size, they get expensive, but you can buy fairly crude spring balances for weighing up to 50kg or 100kg, intended for luggage and big fish, for under £10. Use a tackle or a lever, to multiply that as required?

    Last modified: 21 Oct 2017 11:09 | Anonymous member
  • 21 Oct 2017 10:31
    Reply # 5324547 on 5313611

    Arne, 

    Funnily enough I was wondering about how to measure the tension on various parts of the halyard myself when thinking about swl in blocks. My thought was to get a stout spring balance (100kg would be a start?) and lash one end of that with a rolling hitch into the halyard along the deck where it wont get too much in the way. After hoisting the sail, make off the halyard and then complete the hoist with the spring balance in place, the "tail" of the halyard being the temporary line hitched to the free end of the scales.  It would be fun to try it.

    The peak halyard in a gaff rig puts a big strain on the upper bit of mast in a  blow. The rig has to work well for that not to be quite scary at times. I can't imagine that the junk mast is feeling that kind of strain, but as for the halyard. I wonder if anyone has ever studied this? Shame I didn't think of doing that simple test before we started our conversion!


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