POL BERGIUS wrote:I thought I'd economise and consider the 30 Series  Garhauer which have the same 63mm/21/2" sheave, but they have Delrin and not the Torlon that the 40 Series blocks have.

Pol,

there is the simple mastlift (ML), and there are more complex ones. Those who regularly shifts the sail forward and aft to improve balance (..or compensate for an inefficient rudder...), seem to have a ML system that looks more like a fore lazyjack.

I suggest you start with the simple mast lift. During test sails you will find how much balance you need at boom level to get the steering balance right. If you need small balance to avoid lee helm, my guess is that you can stick with the standard mast lift, or with the one in PJR, Fig 3.50 (plus a batten parrel) to reduce the squeezing effect.

If you need quite a lot of balance to reduce weather helm, it may be better to make a fore lazyjack, to take care of the furled bundle before the mast.

Even on Johanna’s 48sqm sail, I only used the standard ML. It surely did squeeze the furled sail, but during the eleven years I sailed Johanna, I didn’t spot any holes in the sail. I still recommend padding the battens at the mast to reduce the point load between battens and mast.

Arne

Garhauer blocks: USAnian companies are often very reluctant to send stuff overseas.  NZ Post is aware of this and has set up a system whereby you get a customer number from them and if you buy something in USA you give your mailing address as, eg, Fred Bloggs 123456abc as the first line, followed by their warehouse address (in Oregon, for some odd reason).  They then work out the postage cost, which you pay with your credit card, and send it on to you.  It works very well and I shouldn't be at all surprised if the Royal Mail (or whatever they call themselves now) has a similar setup, should you have any problems getting these blocks.  One thing against Garhauer blocks is that they can give you a very nasty black eye, as I know from first-hand experience.

David Tyler suggests - and I've found that it's a good idea - that you use single blocks at the masthead, which allows them to 'give' a little more than a fixed double or triple.  Also easier to carry spares for.

Don't forget to use fixed blocks and not swivels which will lead to tears.  And I was interested to hear that Asmat's 'cheap' roller bearing blocks are holding up in the sheets.  Things must have improved: we only used to get about 10,000 miles out of cheap roller blocks in the 80s and early 90s.  But they are worth their weight in gold when overhauling the sheet.

Don't worry about things taking so long, Pol - look how long I'm taking!  So exciting that you lovely little ship is almost there.  I hope you are going to write it all up for the magazine for us.  I'm dying to see the photos, too.

Pol,

in my earlier days, when I was playing with gaff rigs, I learned that I had to struggle with getting the multipart throat halyard right. Later, when switching to JR, I found that it was easier to get the halyard right if the double block was of the fiddle type. Anyway, the use of the short dummy yard will ensure you that the ropes are running correctly with the sail fully hoisted.

Mast lift:
As the photo below shows, I use a piece of webbing at the low end of the mast lift. It could well be made longer.  Note the taut tack line with a rubber snubber on it. I let it point about almost 45° aft, partly to prevent the boom from ever sliding aft, and partly as a weak kicking strap to ensure that the fan-up preventer doesn’t lift the boom (clew).

Halyard blocks:
The blocks I use on Ingeborg’s (8mm) halyard are 60mm Seldén ball bearing blocks. The single blocks are of the heavy duty type with balls and ball race of ss. steel. The total weight of  (35sqm) sail, yard and all is less than 50kg.

Arne

Hi Pol, I recommend Garhauer blocks for the halyard. Mine came direct from the US, fortunately just before the Brexit vote trashed the value of sterling. My sheet blocks are cheap Barton ones with delrin balls. After 5,000 or so miles, I am happy to keep using them. The sheets don't impose a static load: they are frequently adjusted and in constant motion, working to and fro a little while under way.

Not sure about your idea of multiple halyard attachments on the yard, (like the peak halyard on a gaff, no?). It might work if there is ample drift between the masthead and the yard sling point. Otherwise, the two blocks are pulling towards each other as well as upwards, wasting energy.