Garhauer blocks, and 50sqm halyard layout

  • 21 Oct 2017 10:00
    Reply # 5324501 on 5313611
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    It would be interesting to tie a sort of tension meter to  the halyard after the sail has been hoisted, and monitor how high the load is when sailing close-hauled with the rail kissing the water. My hunch is that the tension will hardly be more than five times what we measure as we hoist the sail. After all, on the JR one avoids the extra forces needed to  flatten an ordinary gaff sail of the same size. My guess is that the peak halyard of a gaff sail takes quite a bit more load than the JR (..but not that much more...)

    Such checks would help to improve our guessing when choosing blocks.

    Arne

    Last modified: 21 Oct 2017 10:01 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 20 Oct 2017 20:48
    Reply # 5324084 on 5313611
    Thanks a lot David. We have no pushpit so the sheets will finish on the deck. The helmsman's hat may need a lanyard ;)
  • 20 Oct 2017 19:49
    Reply # 5323973 on 5323815
    POL BERGIUS wrote:

    Did you have three separate single blocks at deck level on TYSTIE? 

    Yes, three single blocks bolted to a plate that was welded to the top rail of the pushpit, facing towards the leech and with diagonal stays from that plate down to the davits to oppose the pull of the sheet. 
  • 20 Oct 2017 18:22
    Reply # 5323815 on 5313611

    Thanks David! Even if we are very part-time sailors compared to your far and wide voyages with TYSTIE, it would be worth fitting something that will stay spherical. The stainless ("HD") bearing blocks from Selden are not all that much £more. Their roller bearings (must be super-HD I think) are Torlon, and they are pricey. I think 4 or 5 times the price of the HD blocks!

    Did you have three separate single blocks at deck level on TYSTIE? I am going to try to contrive a block arrangement such that the blocks are somewhat horizontal and with sheaves forward to try to stop them from doing what the lower block always did with the gaff rig in all but the most careful jybe - get into a fankle.

    Thanks again.

  • 20 Oct 2017 16:27
    Reply # 5323661 on 5313611

    At one time, I had Barton ball bearing blocks, size 6 or 7, in Tystie's sheet. Eventually the Delrin balls went square ( or rather, cubic) and then fell out. Even when the load is not static, they don't seem to have a very long life. And cubic balls don't rotate as well as spherical ones, even if they don't fall out :-)

  • 20 Oct 2017 12:27
    Reply # 5323408 on 5313611

    Arne, I'd be interested to try the 3:1 halyard saving a wee bit of space and rope, but also friction and cost of blocks.  I'd still use the bag though!

    Selden v Garhauer blocks: The Selden BBB60, Heavy Duty (HD has s/s balls and races as you know) single block with 2 3/8" (60mm) sheave is about £45 here. I did notice that the Delrin balls are described as Asmat says, and therefore not really suitable for the static load of the halyard. I'd probably use the cheaper Delrin ones on the sheets..  The price of the Garhauer blocks, adding an estimated shipping, VAT at 20% and Import Duty of 2.5% makes them about 15% more than the Selden blocks. The Selden are easily available here.  Garhauer need a UK agent! 

    Thanks again.

  • 20 Oct 2017 10:49
    Reply # 5323361 on 5313611

    Pol, I wouldn't use blocks with delrin balls for the halyard. Selden specifically say these should be used for dynamic loads, as opposed to static ones, which would tend to deform the balls if loaded for lengthy periods. This becomes more important if you decide to hooist your 500 sq ft sail with a 3:1 tackle instead of 5:1.


  • 20 Oct 2017 10:43
    Reply # 5323360 on 5313611
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    I am not sure I buy the argument for having 3:1 halyard to save a lot a rope in the cockpit. On all my boats since Johanna, I have stuffed the halyard in a bag right after hoisting. This both keeps it out of the way, and ensures snag-free, fast dropping of the sail. The tail of the relatively shorter 3:1 sheet thus lives alone on the cockpit floor.

    However, the friction factor is something to consider so I may well reduce the purchase of Ingeborg’s halyard, first to 4:1 and then, maybe to 3:1, and see what I prefer. The first step can be done quickly without going up the mast.

    Arne


  • 20 Oct 2017 09:55
    Reply # 5323335 on 5313611
    Thanks Paul. I too like the idea of less rope. I'd rather have an Arne Kverneland fan up preventer! I have little to lose by trying a 3:1 at first, and quite a bit of cash to save on rope and blocks. Thanks!


  • 20 Oct 2017 00:42
    Reply # 5322940 on 5322813
    POL BERGIUS wrote:

    It is interesting that you managed with a 3:1 halyard (and heaps less rope to deal with) on Tystie David.

    I also use David's style of 3 to 1 halyard. I can pull my 450 SqFt main about up to about the last panel, then must take a short breather or use a winch. I like the set up as it reduces the amount of line in the cockpit quite considerably.
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