Birdsmouth mast construction

  • 22 Jan 2011 01:18
    Reply # 505031 on 492518
    Annie Hill wrote: Please do that, Gary.  I have pretty much decided what I am doing, but would very much like to see how you did this - just in case!
    Okay I have the photos sorted, just have to get the text down. Hopefully it won't take me too long. One handed typing is a pain though.:)
  • 16 Jan 2011 04:07
    Reply # 496633 on 491452
    Good point about Recorcinol, your joinery needs to very accurate for that. Epoxy and wood flour is my mix of choice.
    The weight of my mast is without paint or mast head fittng but includes electrical wire and coax cable.
  • 14 Jan 2011 00:35
    Reply # 495448 on 491452
    Another potential problem with resorcinal glue is that in addition to requiring high clamping pressures, there does seem to be a longevity issue when used cold (as distinct from hot, as in plywood).  A very experienced marine surveyor suggested that its life expectancy is about 30 years, when used as most amateurs and boat yards do, and I have noticed that many resorcinal joints do start to open in older vessels.
  • 13 Jan 2011 00:24
    Reply # 494649 on 491452
    Hi Gary,

    It's a good article, simple and clear. I'd just like to make one comment.


    If you cut the birds mouth with a table saw you should be sure to use epoxy or at least a structural glue that is gap filling. Do
    not use resorcinal (spelling) glue as it is not gap filling and your chance of failure on the glue line will be quite high.

    The above warning is because a table saw does not cut accurately but will wander a little, resulting in gaps no mater how careful you are. If you are using one of the non gap filling glues, you need to rout the birds mouths with a router.


     Resorcinal glues have no tolerance for gaps at all even though its still one of the very best glues for boat building.

    Is the weight that you gave (85kg) that of the finished product (wooden pole glassed painted and with fittings) or just the bare wooden pole? I ask because my steel foremast on La Chica is 10M over all (195mm at partners, 80mm at top, 90mm at base, 3mm wall) and finished (galvanised, painted and fittings welded on is 120Kg.

    Last modified: 13 Jan 2011 00:24 | Anonymous member
  • 12 Jan 2011 22:55
    Reply # 494591 on 492518
    Annie Hill wrote: Please do that, Gary.  I have pretty much decided what I am doing, but would very much like to see how you did this - just in case!

    I'll have a go at it this weekend.
  • 10 Jan 2011 05:33
    Reply # 492518 on 491452
    Please do that, Gary.  I have pretty much decided what I am doing, but would very much like to see how you did this - just in case!
  • 09 Jan 2011 21:24
    Reply # 492314 on 491452
    As that has worked out quite well, I am now thinking I will do one my Yeong style mast partner construction.
  • 08 Jan 2011 06:51
    Reply # 491514 on 491513
    Paul Thompson wrote: Gary,

    Look forward to reading your PDF. Where have you posted it?
    It just needs a small edit before I add it to technical articles and Junkmaster
  • 08 Jan 2011 06:36
    Reply # 491513 on 491452
    Gary,

    Look forward to reading your PDF. Where have you posted it?
  • 08 Jan 2011 01:04
    Message # 491452
    I have written a PDF on constructing a birdsmouth mast and once posted I would appreciate any feedback.
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