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Tabbing in over old paint.

  • 22 Jun 2017 12:55
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    Reply # 4912482 on 4909002
    Deleted user

    Annie - this space it way too tight for a normal grinder setup - 6 inches back from the stem, there's still less than 2.5 inches of clearance between the rib and the hull.  It's a long reach.  If I wanted to modify an angle grinder to get in there, I would truly be putting a 12 to 16 inch wire wheel on it to get the thin reach I'd need.

    Darren, is that the kind of mod you did?  I've seen shop built mods where you don't actually hold the grinder at all, but set up a jig, lock it in place, and manipulate the grinder from a safe distance at the end of a long 2x4 lever.

    I have an air compressor, albeit not a huge one; I may need to sand this thing in 3 minute bursts to let the tank catch up. This finger belt sander thing was only $100.  I figure I can sell it on EBay for around $70 used.  So I'll give it a shot.  I'm not looking forward to it, though.

    If I really can't get to the paint to strip it all down, I'm going to print out a copy of Annie's last paragraph and memorialize it under the fiberglass I put over the paint.  I've already got an engraving planned for the mast partners that reads, "David said it's okay, David said it's okay."

    Last modified: 22 Jun 2017 12:55 | Deleted user
  • 22 Jun 2017 04:35
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    Reply # 4912022 on 4911075
    Deleted user
    Another option is for me to take off all the guards on an angle grinder and attach a 20 inch wire wheel to reach in there.  (Just joking about that.  What a image!)
    Actually, I've had a few spots in my refit where I had to make cuts or grind off paint and there was no other way than with 4" grinder shenanigans.  I was able to do it by taking an external speed control used for a router to depower the grinder.  I start with the power really low and just turn it up enough to get the job done.  Be careful not to overwork the tool with the lower voltage or you can let the magic smoke out.  I wear heavy leather gloves and use a full face shield.  For the usual legal reasons I don't recommend it to anyone else, but have done it myself.
  • 21 Jun 2017 23:10
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    Reply # 4911744 on 4909002
    Anonymous member
    Scott - have you come across the pads for grinders that look a bit like Scotch-brite?  They are made by 3M and I've been using them for cleaning up my portholes.  They shift paint like there's no tomorrow, but on the other hand are much less aggressive and dangerous than a sandpaper pad and have no sharp edge to cut you or the joinery.  You might find one of these works.

    (I don't recommend it, but I have put glass and/or epoxy over and above old paint lines where it refused to be shifted and it has stayed the course.  My theory was that as long as the epoxy and glass is perfectly adhered all the way around the offending paint patch, the moisture should not be able to penetrate.  Needs must when the devil drives.  I wouldn't do it if I wanted a structural bond to the painted area.)
  • 21 Jun 2017 20:28
    Quote
    Reply # 4911607 on 4911141
    Deleted user

    i was thinking about angle grinders as well (without joking…) – with a soft grinding plate it could work, but it's nothing for a 'safer work' campaign.

    ueli

    One of my best woodworking and general tools is my Makita 4" angle grinder. I am sure that an angle grinder with a 36 grit coarse disc over the hard rubber pad would make very quick work of removing the paint in the bow section. Certainly remove the guard from the grinder. Some eye protection would be advisable
  • 21 Jun 2017 19:08
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    Reply # 4911384 on 4909002
    Deleted user

    I went ahead and ordered a $100 pneumatic finger belt sander.  I'll report back on how it works out for me.  
  • 21 Jun 2017 17:05
    Quote
    Reply # 4911141 on 4911075
    Anonymous member
    Scott Dufour wrote:

    I was thinking that using the tip right in the corner would be pretty difficult, but if I'm careful, I can get right up close on each side of it, then handsand out just the very corner.  Do you think that would work?  How much torque is on these when working way out on the end?  Are they hard to control?


    when the belt bites at an angle, the arm will try to move sideways – they can have an own will…
    of course, these tools can be controlled. but you should try it on a dummy (peace of scrap wood) first.

    Another option is for me to take off all the guards on an angle grinder and attach a 20 inch wire wheel to reach in there.  (Just joking about that.  What a image!)

    i was thinking about angle grinders as well (without joking…) – with a soft grinding plate it could work, but it's nothing for a 'safer work' campaign.

    ueli
  • 21 Jun 2017 16:36
    Quote
    Reply # 4911075 on 4909002
    Deleted user

    I was thinking that using the tip right in the corner would be pretty difficult, but if I'm careful, I can get right up close on each side of it, then handsand out just the very corner.  Do you think that would work?  How much torque is on these when working way out on the end?  Are they hard to control?

    Another option is for me to take off all the guards on an angle grinder and attach a 20 inch wire wheel to reach in there.  (Just joking about that.  What a image!)
  • 21 Jun 2017 16:24
    Quote
    Reply # 4911038 on 4910770
    Anonymous member
    Scott Dufour wrote:

    …Has anybody out there ever used one of these?

    hi scott

    i used something similar, but not in such narrow spaces.
    the handling of these tools can be a bit tricky – at least if the upper and the lower side of the belt will touch a surface at the same time. (…and you wont reach the edges of your locker with it…)

    ueli
  • 21 Jun 2017 13:05
    Quote
    Reply # 4910770 on 4909002
    Deleted user

    Ah, damn it David.  I was hoping you'd come back with, "I have plenty of experience just glassing extra high and it's always worked just fine."  

    Has anybody out there ever used one of these? :

    http://www.csunitec.com/metal-surface-finishing/pipe-grinding-blending-and-polishing/finger-belt-sander
  • 21 Jun 2017 09:51
    Quote
    Reply # 4910483 on 4909002
    Anonymous member

    The very worst place for a leak, or for loss of confidence in your workmanship. The paint has to go. A very small, coarse drum sander? 
       " ...there is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing as simply messing about in junk-rigged boats" 
                                                               - the Chinese Water Rat

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