Wooden wedges for partners

  • 16 May 2017 10:02
    Reply # 4835772 on 4834710
    Asmat Downey wrote:I have now re-inserted the rubber collar and fitted a split plywood collar over the top to hold it down.
    Martin had to do the same on Tystie.  As you say,the ployurethane is a good method, but the plywood collar, fitted from new, would be extra insurance.

    Graeme, the reason for the wedges is that, as you can't have a machined fit, and as the mast will move noisily even if there are only a couple of mm, you make a virtue out of necessity and make the partners large enough to put in some form of wedging.  Incidentally, this also makes it easier to put the mast in than it would be with a very accurate fit.

    (Asmat - wonderful that you are in the Windies, although you never told us you'd planned it ;-]  Can we hope to hear more about it in the magazine?  And I owe you a letter!)


  • 15 May 2017 17:26
    Reply # 4834710 on 4793466

    Branwen's mast partners consists of a block laminated from many layers of plywood, with a conical hole, made as smooth as I know how, coated with 2 pot varnish and greased with Vaseline. (I was concerned about how easy it would be to extract the mast when t he time came.) With the mast held central with temporary wedges, I poured polyurethane casting rubber around the mast, forming a watertight and slightly resilient seal.

    All went well until, a few days before arrival in Antigua on passage from the Cape Verdes, this rubber collar spewed out, leaving the mast rattling in the hole. I rammed a length of rope into the gap to keep things quiet, but water flooded down into the boat during every squall of wind and rain.

    I still think the system I used is a good one, but I should have paid more attention to the advice contained in PJR, that the slope of the socket holding wooden wedges should be about 1:50. My cone had much more slope than this, allowing the motion of the mast during a trade wind passage to squeeze the rubber out.

    I have now re-inserted the rubber collar and fitted a split plywood collar over the top to hold it down.

  • 15 May 2017 08:20
    Reply # 4833633 on 4793466
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Graeme,

    first of all, I don’t know what you mean with clearance fit. Whatever it means, I don’t want the mast to move, either in the mast step or at partners. any moving will be noisy and cause wear.

    Anyway, at deck level, I would not like to have metal chewing on metal. The wedge method is quite straightforward and forgives a little inaccuracy, in addition to spreading some load. Remember, the metal collar is unlikely to end up at a perfectly right angle to the mast. In this case, the deck was quite flat so I didn’t build up with anything under the flange, except a good layer of thickened epoxy.

    In the bottom of the boat the metal mast sits in a tight-fitting plywood mast step. I think I will do away without wedges there.

    I know others make a kind of rubber collar between mast and partners. I hope they jump in and tell how it is done.

    Arne

    PS: The wedges are plenty long enough to be visible below deck and it is easy to knock them back out again.


  • 14 May 2017 23:06
    Reply # 4833101 on 4793677
    Anonymous member (Administrator)
    Arne Kverneland wrote:Antoine. 

    I have made my mast wedges from cheap spruce, and never treated them with anything. As long as the mast coat keeps the water out, they seem to last forever.

    New on Ingeborg's mast is that I made the wedges quite narrow, to avoid having to shape them with any curves. This appears to work very well. The mast coat is of the 'open' type which is wrapped 1.5 times round the mast. This makes it easy to open it to inspect the wedges.

    Arne

     

    Looks like a very tidy set-up.

    Forgive my ignorance I have not before had a thru-deck mast. Why do you need wedges for a metal mast and metal mast step. Is a clearance fit not good?

    Also Arne, how do you remove them, can they be knocked out from underneath?


  • 03 May 2017 14:05
    Reply # 4812080 on 4793466
    Deleted user

    OK then. Uncoated it will be.


    Thanks guys


    Antoine

    WaterBear

  • 01 May 2017 16:18
    Reply # 4793783 on 4793466

    I agree. Uncoated softwood is better, as the wedges will tend to swell a bit and stay in place. If the angle of the wedge is very low, then it shouldn't matter if the wedge is hard and slippery, but it would be better if it wasn't - that is, uncoated and with a sawn finish is better.

  • 01 May 2017 15:19
    Reply # 4793677 on 4793466
    Anonymous member (Administrator)
    Antoine. 

    I have made my mast wedges from cheap spruce, and never treated them with anything. As long as the mast coat keeps the water out, they seem to last forever.

    New on Ingeborg's mast is that I made the wedges quite narrow, to avoid having to shape them with any curves. This appears to work very well. The mast coat is of the 'open' type which is wrapped 1.5 times round the mast. This makes it easy to open it to inspect the wedges.

    Arne

     

    Last modified: 01 May 2017 15:43 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 01 May 2017 12:02
    Message # 4793466
    Deleted user

    Hi

    i cut my wedges in cherry. Would I need to epoxy them, paint them or both (or none). I wonder what is best.


    Antoine

    WaterBear

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