Jami,
the wrinkles you mention are just smiling wrinkles, nicely distributed along the battens. I don’t think they do much harm, except in the eyes of very tidy minds. It is the big diagonal creases we want to avoid, in particular in light winds, as that is when we want maximum camber. Your sail looks smarter than most.
I think the fact that you don’t need any HK parrels has much to do with that your sail is of fairly high AR, at least compared to most sails I have made for myself. I found Broremann’s sail (AR=2.15) extremely forgiving in use. Your use of half-short battens parrels may also stabilise the sail a bit. Remember that the HK parrels were spotted on the fanned sails in Hong Kong, and the sails used there had extremely low AR.
Sheetlets.
Getting the sheetlets right is to me the most time-consuming job, after the rig is operational. I generally make mine over-long and then shorten as much as I can to be able to sheet in the furled bundle. I don’t recon I can sheet in my furled bundle to the centre-line, as long as I use the space-demanding Johanna-style sheeting. However, I recon the Johanna-sheeting’s anti-twist properties to be so important that I rather sacrifice a bit easy handling with the sail lowered.
On my new boat, Ingeborg, I quickly clamp the sheet bundle down onto the side deck after lowering the sail. This way I avoid the sheet flying around my ears (and tiller) as we are approaching the berth.
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I suggest you start with lengthening the lowest sheetlet; the one between the boom and the batten above it. The one between batten 3 and 4 (from top) may also need to be lengthened (check with only 4 panels set).
Cheers,
Arne