David Tyler wrote:

This is looking absolutely superb in the photos, Annie. No way will I accept your self-denigration as a boatbuilder. 

The use of a multitool to cut off the plugs is a new one on me. Well done for nutting that one out!

Thank you for that, David.  I'm doing my best to build a boat that is a credit to the designer!  The multitool is amazing: my best efforts with a chisel always resulted in the odd plug chipping below surface and everything else took ages.  I'm a complete fan of the multitool now, for sawing anything that needs to be flush.  I was very cautious at first, because the blades seem quite flexible; however, it's very rarely that they dig in.  Clever machines altogether.

I am pleased to say that the heads compartment is finally completed.  Only the forecabin, saloon and galley to go in the interior, and then there's just the cockpit to knock out, the deck to put on, the rudders, bilge boards, mast and sail to make and we'll just about be there.  No doubt I've forgotten one or two other things.

At least I never thought I was going to 'knock over' this project in a short time!

You can read all about it on my blog, should you wish to.

David Tyler wrote:

Household paints are quite good enough for the interior. Tystie's cabin was painted with Dulux Satinwood, two coats applied by 4" gloss roller over a hi-build epoxy primer that had been sanded smooth. A very smooth finish resulted, that lasted the 16 years that I owned her, without recoating or touch up. It did get sooty in the galley, because of the Taylors kero cooker, but I could see that if I started to repaint there, the rest would then look shabby - so I left it. It's no fun repainting when you're living aboard. I did use two part polyurethane gloss in the heads and the companionway, the wetter and higher wear areas.

Well, you do tend to get used to what you are living with.  But I think after 10 years it would need repainting.  I don't think I'll fancy doing that, in my mid 70s - especially overhead.  And I recall that the polyurethane paint in Tystie certainly still looks pretty good.

Annie Hill wrote:

Zane Krajancic wrote:I used water based something or rather in the interior of my Contessa, with a mold inhibitor pre-added.  So far no mold, but brush strokes and roller marks everywhere.

It's not the result - it's the fact that we're trying and generally succeeding that is the most important thing, Zane.

Heh heh all good Annie, I was gently self effacing myself - I'm going to be giving the interior another repaint as there are marks, scratches, goops and glue spills and what not everywhere after a six month refit with another few months to go. I'm sure I'll do a better job next time round. 

David Thatcher wrote:Some one with a lot more patience than me! I would never have guessed that the paintwork in LC was acrylic. The other great thing about Resene acrylic paint, (and I also think the oil based enamel), is the the toxicity of the paint is very low. Very 'green' paint. 

There is no doubt that acrylic paint is very durable, look how long it lasts on house exteriors. All the interior varnishing I do now is also acrylic and it lasts extremely well without the yellowing of oil based varnish. I have also been using an acrylic 'oil' on my exterior furniture at home, but I can't quite figure out how 'acrylic' and 'oil' go together, but it is extremely durable. 

Paul did tell me that he's spent quite a time perfecting his technique!

I probably should have gone for acrylic, but I've only had a little experience with it.  My learning curve is already nearly vertical, so in the end I decided to stick with what I know.  But it's great to hear that these 'green' paints are so effective.  If they work under the NZ sun, they'll work anything.