The drawers were fitted with a back-end that extended down below the drawer bottom about 2"+ . A 1' hole was drilled in the centre of the extension and made slightly larger with a rat tail file.

The front piece of the drawer, a cover, so to speak, was larger than the drawer itself. It extended well below the cabinet opening. A piece of wood, about 1/2" square,  was attached to the bottom of the drawer,  with a distance between the front slightly larger than the thickness of the cabinet frame. This made a slot to grasp the cabinet frame. The opening in the cabinet was enough to allow you to raise the drawer above the lip and slide out.

A bulkhead made of 1/4" ply was installed in the cabinet, parallel to the cabinet front, at a distance maybe 1" beyond a drawer fully inserted. In that bulkhead were drilled for a 1" dowel, a hole for each drawer,  in line with the anchor point on the cabinet.

Working from underneath, a dowel of appropriate length was inserted into the inside bulkhead. Holding the dowel with the left hand, a drawer was inserted into the cabinet front with the right. Simultaneously, the dowel was inserted into the drawer extension hole and brought to the cabinet front. A pre-drilled screw hole in the front permitted a screw to be fed into a pre-drilled hole in the dowel. The dowel is "free floating" except where attached to the cabinet front. While fitting the screw, it will be necessary to hold the drawer up and out for east access. Afterwards, the screw is invisible.

You now have a captured drawer. It cannot fall out. Once in place, the substantial lip keeps the drawer from sliding open. I don't think I ever saw one open on its own. When pulled all the way out, you will have easy access to the drawer for cleaning.

These drawers will occupy a little more space than those with runners.

There are no slides or runners to jam. When fully out, one should be careful not to put excessive downward pressure on the drawer which could break off the drawer back.

A finger-hole was drilled in the front of each drawer to lift and full the drawer.

Hahaha!  Wonderful Bruno!  You are the best thing for brightening my day!!

I'll probably be fitting a couple of athwartships drawers as well - I still need more, but they will have the usual wedge.  The problem with truly captive drawers, as you describe, Jim, is that they are awkward to remove for cleaning.  It sounds from your description as though they might be a bit greedy of space, too.  But I shall also have a mechanical means of keeping them in place, like those in the forecabin (which are opened much less frequently than those in the galley).

Phew! Drawers that run fore and aft, as they should on a well-ordered cruising boat. I remember sailing on a production boat in which you had to be very careful on starboard tack, or you'd be forever picking up the drawer contents off the cabin sole.

The amateur boatbuilder's dilemma: where to pitch the interior design between "a regular maiden's paradise" and the empty, noisy, dark, carbon fibre cavern to be found on some raceboats. The only certainty is that we need to end up with something that reflects our own personality and the way we sail - otherwise, what's the point? We may as well buy an off-the-shelf production boat, identical to hundreds of others. In those terms, SibLim is turning out well, and is going to be "one of the cleverest little ships imaginable".