Another way of assembling sail panels and pockets

  • 24 Jun 2016 19:21
    Reply # 4100587 on 4076411
    Deleted user
    David Tyler wrote:I joined the first two panels face to face by mistake, and was about to unpick, when I thought that the easy solution is to continue making that sail that way. The sail will be rigged on the starboard side of the mast, not the port side. It's only a convention to rig the sail on the port side, and two-sail rigs have sometimes had one sail on each side (look at the photos of Ivory Gull and Fly at the recent Famouth junket). 

    I did put both my sails on the starboard side of the masts on Flutterby, and it seems to be working fine. I've got two winches on the cabintop, and the starboard one often has the centerboard pennant in it, leaving the port one free for my halyards. (At least I think that was why I did it; now I'm not even 100% sure anymore!

  • 15 Jun 2016 12:39
    Reply # 4076771 on 4076523
    Arne Kverneland wrote:

    As for joining the panels the wrong way, I did that on my instruction drawing and had to write a note on it! After that, I have made a habit of marking the tack corner on the mast side with T1, T2 etc.(see photo).

      

    Yes, that's almost essential when making a heavily-cambered sail, as it looks very odd when on the floor, none of the angles look correct. It's difficult to be sure which corner is which, unless you mark them as you cut the panel.
    Last modified: 15 Jun 2016 19:22 | Anonymous member
  • 15 Jun 2016 11:06
    Reply # 4076535 on 4076523
    Arne Kverneland wrote:

     When that important first seam has been made, one is freer to jazz on from there. I assume you add batten pockets as you go to avoid too big rolls of canvas under the sewing machine’s arm? 

    That's exactly right, on both counts.
  • 15 Jun 2016 10:41
    Reply # 4076523 on 4065489
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    David,
    Thanks for the photos with captions. It appears that your way of doing it is a cross between the amateur methods and the sailmaker’s method. The biggest advantage with the amateur way, is, as you say, that it is so much easier to join matching curves. That was my main motivation for using it as well ( I have never made a flat junk sail). When that important first seam has been made, one is freer to jazz on from there. I assume you add batten pockets as you go to avoid too big rolls of canvas under the sewing machine’s arm? As for me, in my crowded little living room, I find it better to use the amateur method through out the job.
    My batten pockets will definitely sit on the “outside” of the sail, while yours will be in the middle, which looks neater. I bet your tube kind of batten pockets will work fine.

    As for joining the panels the wrong way, I did that on my instruction drawing and had to write a note on it! After that, I have made a habit of marking the tack corner on the mast side with T1, T2 etc.(see photo).

    Talking about mast side. I think I read somewhere why one should set the sail on the port side of the mast, if possible: When hoisting the sail, it is then natural to put the boat on the sb. tack to better see the lines in the rig, and possibly reduce friction a bit. Now, sb. tack happens to be the right-of-way tack. Anyway, that’s what I say when people ask...

    Cheers, and good luck  -  with your tempo you will be under way before I will.

    Arne

       

  • 15 Jun 2016 07:53
    Reply # 4076411 on 4065489

    I've finished machining the sail. Just a little handwork to do, and eyes to press in.

    I think I can safely recommend this as an amateur sailmaking method. Because the first stage of assembling two panels is to lay one on top of another, reverse sides together (as for amateur method B) 

    1. With curved edges to the panels, these curves match each other, the panels lie flat on the floor and it's easy to tape or staple them together, then pass the edge under the machine. In conventional sailmaking, with a lapped joint between panels, joining two curved edges is considerably more difficult.
    2. Much less floor space is needed. I have just cut and sewn a sail of area 22 sq m with a chord of 3.3m in a space measuring 4. 5m x 2.3m.
    A word of warning: with limited space to lay out the panels, it's quite possible to make the mistake of joining the wrong edges together, or joining the panels face to face instead of reverse to reverse. I joined the first two panels face to face by mistake, and was about to unpick, when I thought that the easy solution is to continue making that sail that way. The sail will be rigged on the starboard side of the mast, not the port side. It's only a convention to rig the sail on the port side, and two-sail rigs have sometimes had one sail on each side (look at the photos of Ivory Gull and Fly at the recent Famouth junket). The only other mistake I made was to make the top edge of one panel as 3100mm instead of 3010mm, and that was easily put right. "Think three times, measure twice and cut once".
    Last modified: 15 Jun 2016 08:28 | Anonymous member
  • 14 Jun 2016 20:05
    Reply # 4075364 on 4065489

    It's simply cut parallel to, or perpendicular to, the edge of the roll of cloth. 

  • 14 Jun 2016 19:16
    Reply # 4075238 on 4065489
    Deleted user

    The captions and photos are excellent, David.  Thank you for putting that together.  Very clear and concise.

    A question: 

    "If there is a bias at the edge greater than 5 degrees, add a piece of cloth with zero bias inside the tabling, to avoid stretch and fluttering." 

    Do you have a photo of a patch like that?

  • 09 Jun 2016 11:23
    Message # 4065489

    I'm making an album of photos of the method I'm using with Weaverbird's sail, as I think others might find it useful. I'll add some captions later.

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