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Lazy Jack (sail Bundle lift)

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  • 05 Jun 2016 02:11
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    Reply # 4057876 on 4057553
    Anonymous member
    Arne Kverneland wrote:

    As for clear (2-pot) varnish contra white. My experience is that although the clear 2-pot varnish stand up 3 – 5 times as long as 1-pot varnish, it can still not compete against 2-pot white paint.

    I've glassed several masts and then varnished them with multiple coats of International Crystal.  They stay looking good for several years.  When you get tired of re-varnishing, paint 'em!

    Cheers,
    Arne
    (.. who test-fitted Ingeborg’s mast yesterday to determine the mast step’s position. The mast was then pulled out again and the step epoxied in place today...)

    Exciting progress on Ingeborg, Arne.  Please write it all up for a series in the magazine (or send what you have to me and I'll edit it).  Lots of our members don't go on the website, but I'm sure they will want to learn about your latest venture!
  • 04 Jun 2016 21:31
    Quote
    Reply # 4057752 on 4048068
    Anonymous member

    I guess webbing parrels will solve the chafing grooves problem but I am interested in this thread because it reflects on one of my current grumbles.  I keep my sail in the ready to hoist position when furled, sitting in the topping lifts, but find, no matter how I try to tie it off, that I cannot stop the bundle from moving a little when the boat rolls in the open roadsteads that Arion is frequently anchored in.  As I write, I am anchored off Airlie Beach in the Whitsunday islands, and have rolled gently all night, and the bundle has squeaked all night.  I have webbing parrels and an alloy mast, (which I suspect is noisier than a timber one) so chafe to the mast is not an issue though I wonder about chafing the sail.  Can't see any evidence of that, however.  I have been contemplating dropping the sail into the gallows but having to set the topping lifts up properly each time I go sailing seems a pain in the rear.  So at this stage I continue to experiment with different ways to tie the bundle off.  One complication for me is that I have solar panels on the cockpit roof and need to give them adequate exposure to the sun.
  • 04 Jun 2016 17:01
    Quote
    Reply # 4057553 on 4048068
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Most of what Annie says about my rigs is correct, at least on Frøken Sørensen. However, on Johanna’s 48sqm sloop-rig, the all-wooden mast was glassed and then painted with several coats of off-white 2-pot polyurethane paint. The lazyjacks and parrels never wore through that paint. The only place I had to touch up the paint was on a spot on the aft side, about 30 – 50cm below the mast top. My guess is that a block had done some rubbing there. This is why I don’t bother with glass this time. For topping lift I have used, on Malena, Johanna, and now, Ingeborg some 3-strand 10mm polyester rope. I aim for slippery ropes with quite big diameter to reduce point load and shafe. Batten parrels are from 20mm webbing and I have never seen any sign of shafe from them.

    The biggest difference from my boats and some others mentioned here is that I don‘t use my boats for long distance offshore sailing, so the wear and tear on the sail and equipment must be much lower for that reason alone.

    As for clear (2-pot) varnish contra white. My experience is that although the clear 2-pot varnish stand up 3 – 5 times as long as 1-pot varnish, it can still not compete against 2-pot white paint.

    Cheers,
    Arne
    (.. who test-fitted Ingeborg’s mast yesterday to determine the mast step’s position. The mast was then pulled out again and the step epoxied in place today...)

     
  • 04 Jun 2016 05:19
    Quote
    Reply # 4056945 on 4048068
    Deleted user
    If your rope parrels are causing problems on the mast try our solution of webbing parrels. They slide a lot more easily on the mast than rope parrels, don't get caught up on each other, and will not create grooves in the mast. Our webbing parrels are of fairly heavy webbing and about 40mm in width although you could easily go narrower.
  • 04 Jun 2016 04:01
    Quote
    Reply # 4056908 on 4048068
    Deleted user
    Once upon a time you'd reach into your bosun's stores for a pinch of tallow to rub on to the parrels...
  • 03 Jun 2016 23:48
    Quote
    Reply # 4056775 on 4048068
    Anonymous member
    I would bear in mind that Arne is talking about his topmast, not the whole spar and that he uses his boat, generally, for daysailing , (although I suspect that the cosy Ingeborg might tempt him away for longer periods).  The lines that are causing the damage to your mast are the parrels, I suspect, and they will rarely bear on the topmast for any length of time.  Arne's big rigs are often sailed reefed, don't forget, so that a lot of the time, the parrels will only be bearing on the alloy part of the mast.

    On the other hand, you are planning to use the vessel pretty intensively.  The parrels will be sawing back and forth for hours, maybe even days at a time.  Polyurethane paint alone is, from my experience, unlikely to be sufficiently hard on its own to protect the mast from being damaged by the parrels.  Once the lines have started their work, they invariably drop into the same groove and make bad worse. 

    I know people who have got away with unprotected wooden masts, but if you know what might happen, you can keep an eye on things and be prepared.
  • 03 Jun 2016 17:18
    Quote
    Reply # 4056217 on 4048068
    Deleted user

    Arne, 

    That sounds like a bit simpler job than what we were thinking. I am usually much more a utilitarian and sacrifice beauty for longevity, however, would be a bit of a shame to paint such a beautiful stick though eh? Probably the rest of the season will find me crawling around the mast with teak oil.

    Thanks for the ideas!
  • 02 Jun 2016 21:47
    Quote
    Reply # 4054459 on 4048068
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    On the wooden mast top of my latest project (Ingeborg, 2150kg, 35sqm), I have, as an experiment only used 2-pot polyurethane paint. I started with 5 coats of clear varnish, and then 3 coats of white (Epifanes 2-pot, in both cases). When/if the the topping lift or whatever rubs through the white coats, I will still have time to fix it at the nearest opportunity. 

    Arne
  • 02 Jun 2016 17:50
    Quote
    Reply # 4053935 on 4048068
    Deleted user

    That's correct, it is only teak oiled most of its length. We plan to do just that when we get around to taking down the mast. I believe the section of the mast below decks is done that way. Hopefully we can get that done this fall.
  • 02 Jun 2016 03:14
    Quote
    Reply # 4052222 on 4048068
    Anonymous member
    If the lines make grooves in the mast at anchor, it could well be even worse under way.  I'm guessing that the mast is essentially untreated.  My own preference is to coat the mast with glass cloth and epoxy - just one layer of cloth will suffice.  When the epoxy has gone off, remove any amine bloom, sand very lightly and then fill the weave with more epoxy, possibly slightly thickened with silica. Put on another coat while it's still 'green', let it get hard, sand and paint.  That way the mast ends up with a very hard, smooth finish, which lets ropes slide up and down easily, and saw back and forth without chafing or digging in. 
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