Hi Pol, I've just been off sailing Hobie Cats in a warm climate and on returning I'm reminded how cold the UK can be, and how much better the Split Junk is than the Hobie Cat rig. Fast reaching may be fun, but if you have to struggle to get to windward and have to think before you tack then it's not carefree sailing.
You've raised a number of points in this thread so I'll try to take them in turn.
1. Aspect Ratio. Here there are a number of considerations. Firstly, the higher the A/R the lower the tip losses and the higher the efficiency. You just have to look at gliders and the modern airliners to see that, however, you also have to think about the height of the centre of pressure and stability. The centre of pressure of a Bermudan rig is fairly low, and the centre of froward drive is even lower as the top (pointy) part of the rig tends to produce more drag which tends to heel the rig rather than drive the boat forward. This means that you can have the centre of effort of a more rectangular rig higher without having a greater heeling force.
There is also the aesthetic consideration. Sketch the rig you think looks right, and then do it again but with a reef down and see if it looks too squat. With Poppy I ended up with a mast which was about the same height as the original Bermudan rig, and have no problem standing up to the rig.
Another consideration is the depth of each reef. With hind sight I wouldn't have a jib with height to chord ratio any less than as on Poppy. A taller panel is to be preferred to let the jib make a better cambered shape. In recent rigs I have tended to reduce the number of panels. It is surprising how few steps of reef are needed in practice with this rig.
2. Regarding the sheet sweeping the cockpit, I'm a great believer in simplicity so have settled for a fixed sheeting point as far aft as possible, accepting that the sheet is only a consideration when tacking or gibing and the rest of the time is well out of the way. I've never used double sheeting and see it a an unnecessary complication of an essentially simple rig. Poppy sails like a Topper, with sheet, tiller and relaxation.
3. The $64,000 question is rig position and balance. Practical Junk Rig (PJR) is called the Bible of the Junk Rig, but perhaps it should be referred as the Old Testament as a lot has happened since it was written. The authors were working with basically flat rigs, which along with hinged and bendy batten rigs have a number of undesirable characteristics. As the first 30% of these rigs are flat the stall or separation of the airflow on the lee side tends to start from the knife edge separation from the luff, so the centre of pressure tends to move aft, and produce weather helm. I get the impression that many junk sailors with these rigs tend to sail in a semi stalled state most of the time, producing high drag, low drive and weather helm. In a rig with a good camber in the right position approaching the stall the airflow will start to separate from the leech and if anything the centre of pressure will move a little forward, as with the wing of an aeroplane. With the cambered sail tell tales help keep away from the stall. I think the information in PJR on balance is based on this flat rig experience, and I feel that it does not apply to the Split Rig. I will admit that I've never really followed the ideas in PJR on this topic.
Using drawings to establish rig position works on the rig centre of area, not centre of pressure, so the characteristics of the rig must be taken into account. My experience with the Split Rig is to put the centre of area in the same position as the centre of area for the Bermudan rig if the boat balances well. In practice I even simplify that and put the 50% chord line of the parallelogram section in the same fore and aft position as the centre of area of the Bermudan rig. It makes for easy sums and drawings.
Remember that the Split Rig has high balance so when the sheet is eased there is little heeling force, and in the extreme the heeling force can be to windward. Then you can increase area and fly!
You mention you dad at over 80 changing from a tiller to wheel. I have two thoughts on that. I agree with you about keeping it simple with a tiller and using a wind vane. There is no reason why everyone does not have a vane as a good one can be built for £20 - £30 if you keep it simple. The second one is that the helm should be light and the weight on it is not always down to boat balance but may be down to the hydrodynamic balance of the rudder. Sailing the Hobie Cats over the last couple of weeks the tiller was light, but when the rudder was swept aft when coming back to the beach it was almost impossible to move if not sitting in a well braced position.
Pol, you have a planimeter!. Wow! I've always wanted to play with one, though in practice I just do some simple sums (and guess).
I hope this answers some of your questions. If not, or if you have more, just ask.
Cheers, Slieve.