Gaff cutter to split junk conversion: C/E, A/R, sheeting...

  • 24 Nov 2015 17:31
    Reply # 3658399 on 3624805
    Hi Slieve,

    thanks very much for your reply. How very nice to be sailing in warm weather , but not so great in November to return to good old Blighty! You've got a hole-in-one: an easier life aboard is what we seek!!

    I'm sorry to say that, as I was writing my little update off-line, you were posting your reply and somehow they managed to cross in the ether. Anyway what you say is extremely helpful at this stage as I'm about to draw something nearer to the final version...

    I remember you writing that if you were doing another sail for POPPY you might give her 35% balance. On our ANNIE's proposed rig 35% looks very good. Would you also hold with your comment about widening the slot a bit? I was mistaken in my last post (it was a bit past my bedtime) by mentioning a slot of 13 foot six! What I meant was 13 1/2 inches or about 340 mm. Does that sound about right? Should I at this stage be measuring the jibs separately from the mains'l to find a more accurate c/a? When I do the PJR "hang the sail by a pin" trick to find the c/a, I was thinking I might cut out the slot from the paper or card. 

    You mention putting the 50% chord line right on the c/a of the Bermudan rig that you're replacing, if that rig was well balanced. In ANNIE's case she does carry a bit of weather helm as is common I'm sure with boats of her type. Does anybody have any views on shifting our c/a aft by 3% of w/l or is this just fiddling and more likely to end in tears?! 

    In my simplistic way I reckon ANNIE has no balance on her rudder as it is suspended from its forward edge. Is this what you mean by hydrodynamic balance Slieve? I'm imagining that the only difference I can easily make to the balance on the helm is to get the mast and rig position correct.

    ANNIE is just over 6 tons, 9'6" beam, and 26 foot on the waterline, drawing only something like 3'6" with the plate up. Her existing gaff rig is just over 600 ft.². I suspect that the SJR might provide more drive to windward than the existing gaff rig, so maybe that sail area is sufficient? I am tempted to add a bit though, on the grounds that it is so easy to reef!

    I am so slow at reading and at sums, that the planimeter has really helped a lot, having not really known what it was when I was given it!

    Thanks again for your comments.

    Pol.

    Last modified: 25 Nov 2015 08:34 | Anonymous member
  • 23 Nov 2015 23:41
    Reply # 3656897 on 3624805

    Thanks very much to David Webb and Slieve for your replies. I'm a bit further on now...

     The ANNIE in this case is our gaff cutter.

    Now I have a SJ sail whose chord is 20 feet, and overall height is about 36 feet, with a 13'6" slot, based on Poppy's proportions pretty loosely although I have about 35% balance. I've put a similar amount of curve in the top of luff and leech which does look good. This should give me about 570 ft.², which is probably a bit less than I need, since Annie's sail area including the tiny tops'l is just over 600 ft.². (I forgot about the area I was going to lose in the 13" wide slot when I drew this sail!)  ANNIE's is a pretty modest gaff rig. I suppose when deciding on the final sail area I really need to be able to evaluate the drive from the SJR in comparison with her existing gaff rig. My impression, from what Slieve has written about SJR, is that it may well produce as much if not more power to windward than the gaff rig, and easily as much downwind. But then it's so easy to reef, maybe having an extra panel's worth might not be a bad idea, taking the total area up to about 630 ft.²?

     

    I found the c/a of my current SJR sail as per Blondie's method in PJR. It was precisely on the line of 50% chord, as Slieve described in one of his articles! If I put that 50% chord at 5% of w/l aft of the gaff rig c/a, my mast position with 35% balance is about 18 inches forward of the existing mast position. ANNIE's is in a tabernacle, whereas the new mast will be keel stepped. This is quite do-able in this position and a lot better than the previous options that I considered. It will be a wooden mast, shaped to 8 sides and tapered on my mill and then split, hollowed and glued... I've shaped a couple of masts for two JR conversions this summer, and they've been finished by Dan Johnson up in Ullapool (they have HESTUR, Benford 34). One of the masts has been sailing already, on SOLITAIRE. The rig looks great.

     

    I'm surprised to find that even with this apparently quite short boom, and a leech that is perpendicular to the waterline, the sheet angle to the top batten in the parallelogram is  not much over 10°, using her existing mainsheet track which is just aft of the rudder  post. Although this could in theory go further aft , or I could raise it on a horse (I'd rather not have to)  I don't think I've got a lot of room for lengthening the chord. The best way to increase area may be "up". Do you think I'm going to have problems with the sheets sweeping the helmsman's hat off?! My drawing shows the end of the boom, given a 10° angle at something like 7 feet above the cockpit sole. I'm just over 6 feet.

     

    ANNIE carries moderate weather helm, like many gaff cutters. Would a SJR be subject to Practical Junk Rig's advice, namely to position the centre of area of the JR 6% of the w/l aft of the existing conventional rig's c/a?  David Webb of Arcadian's comments below  made me realise how critical the positioning of the c/a might be.

    Can the SJR take a transitional panel as per Arne's sails? I like the look of that, as in my limited understanding it might improve the airflow over the top part of the sail helping the vortex on its way? At the moment my top two panels are looking a bit big so I've a bit of fining to do there. I will likely add a panel to the parallelogram as well.

    Pol.


  • 23 Nov 2015 23:13
    Reply # 3656882 on 3624805

    Hi Pol, I've just been off sailing Hobie Cats in a warm climate and on returning I'm reminded how cold the UK can be, and how much better the Split Junk is than the Hobie Cat rig. Fast reaching may be fun, but if you have to struggle to get to windward and have to think before you tack then it's not carefree sailing.

    You've raised a number of points in this thread so I'll try to take them in turn.

    1. Aspect Ratio. Here there are a number of considerations. Firstly, the higher the A/R the lower the tip losses and the higher the efficiency. You just have to look at gliders and the modern airliners to see that, however, you also have to think about the height of the centre of pressure and stability. The centre of pressure of a Bermudan rig is fairly low, and the centre of froward drive is even lower as the top (pointy) part of the rig tends to produce more drag which tends to heel the rig rather than drive the boat forward. This means that you can have the centre of effort of a more rectangular rig higher without having a greater heeling force.

    There is also the aesthetic consideration. Sketch the rig you think looks right, and then do it again but with a reef down and see if it looks too squat. With Poppy I ended up with a mast which was about the same height as the original Bermudan rig, and have no problem standing up to the rig.

    Another consideration is the depth of each reef. With hind sight I wouldn't have a jib with height to chord ratio any less than as on Poppy. A taller panel is to be preferred to let the jib make a better cambered shape. In recent rigs I have tended to reduce the number of panels. It is surprising how few steps of reef are needed in practice with this rig.

    2. Regarding the sheet sweeping the cockpit, I'm a great believer in simplicity so have settled for a fixed sheeting point as far aft as possible, accepting that the sheet is only a consideration when tacking or gibing and the rest of the time is well out of the way. I've never used double sheeting and see it a an unnecessary complication of an essentially simple rig. Poppy sails like a Topper, with sheet, tiller and relaxation.

    3. The $64,000 question is rig position and balance. Practical Junk Rig (PJR) is called the Bible of the Junk Rig, but perhaps it should be referred as the Old Testament as a lot has happened since it was written. The authors were working with basically flat rigs, which along with hinged and bendy batten rigs have a number of undesirable characteristics. As the first 30% of these rigs are flat the stall or separation of the airflow on the lee side tends to start from the knife edge separation from the luff, so the centre of pressure tends to move aft, and produce weather helm. I get the impression that many junk sailors with these rigs tend to sail in a semi stalled state most of the time, producing high drag, low drive and weather helm. In a rig with a good camber in the right position approaching the stall the airflow will start to separate from the leech and if anything the centre of pressure will move a little forward, as with the wing of an aeroplane. With the cambered sail tell tales help keep away from the stall. I think the information in PJR on balance is based on this flat rig experience, and I feel that it does not apply to the Split Rig. I will admit that I've never really followed the ideas in PJR on this topic.

    Using drawings to establish rig position works on the rig centre of area, not centre of pressure, so the characteristics of the rig must be taken into account. My experience with the Split Rig is to put the centre of area in the same position as the centre of area for the Bermudan rig if the boat balances well. In practice I even simplify that and put the 50% chord line of the parallelogram section in the same fore and aft position as the centre of area of the Bermudan rig. It makes for easy sums and drawings.

    Remember that the Split Rig has high balance so when the sheet is eased there is little heeling force, and in the extreme the heeling force can be to windward. Then you can increase area and fly!

    You mention you dad at over 80 changing from a tiller to wheel. I have two thoughts on that. I agree with you about keeping it simple with a tiller and using a wind vane. There is no reason why everyone does not have a vane as a good one can be built for £20 - £30 if you keep it simple. The second one is that the helm should be light and the weight on it is not always down to boat balance but may be down to the hydrodynamic balance of the rudder. Sailing the Hobie Cats over the last couple of weeks the tiller was light, but when the rudder was swept aft when coming back to the beach it was almost impossible to move if not sitting in a well braced position.

    Pol, you have a planimeter!. Wow! I've always wanted to play with one, though in practice I just do some simple sums (and guess).

    I hope this answers some of your questions. If not, or if you have more, just ask.

    Cheers, Slieve.


  • 19 Nov 2015 09:02
    Reply # 3647797 on 3624805

    Hi David,

    yes, one of the benefits of the carefully cambered split junk as I see it is that it is meant to develop less weather helm than a flatter Hasler and McLeod style rig. No doubt Slieve McGalliard will have a thing or two to say about that. I'm hoping to hear from him. My dad, who was sailing our boat Annie well into his 80s retired the tiller and fitted a wheel. For ease of self steering I would quite like to reinstate the tiller, which is another reason for making sure she is well balanced. 

    Thanks again very much for giving me the benefit of your experience. I can't tell you how much we are looking forward to the new regime next season!

    All the best,

    Pol.

  • 19 Nov 2015 03:27
    Reply # 3646708 on 3624805

    Hi Pol,

    typing error, I meant 5%. The original c of a was 17% ahead and the new one I calculated was 12% ahead. With the keel addition we are back to 17% and have a balanced tiller again. With a split junk it may be different to Arcadian as she has flat sails and the center of effort with flat sails tends to be further aft than with cambered sails. Also you are considering a single masted rig whereas Arcadian is schooner rigged. All factors to be considered. Best of luck with the conversion.

  • 18 Nov 2015 23:20
    Reply # 3646518 on 3624805

    Thanks for your post, David. That is very interesting. It sounds as though I need to be careful. 3% doesn't sounds a lot to me, in my ignorance, but it obviously IS! It is good to hear that you managed to sort things on Arcadian so that she is well balanced now. Enjoy your summer!

    All the best,

    Pol.


  • 18 Nov 2015 22:52
    Reply # 3646506 on 3624805

    Hi, on Arcadian I designed the new junk rig with a c of a three percent aft of the original Bermudan rig c of a and ended up with a huge amount of weather helm. I ended up adding a significant area to the keel aft of the existing keel and she now balances well. If I had used the same c of a as the original rig, all would probably have been well. Obviously PJR is not infallible so please take their advice with reservations.

  • 13 Nov 2015 11:20
    Reply # 3631732 on 3624805

    Thanks very much Slieve. I will look forward to hearing from you!

    Pol.

  • 13 Nov 2015 02:07
    Reply # 3631032 on 3624805
    Hi Pol, I've just seen your post, but am currently not at my homebased computer. If I haven't responded properly in about 10 days time send me an e-mail to tell me to get a move on. Cheers, Slieve.
  • 09 Nov 2015 15:23
    Message # 3624805

    SJR looks like it ticks more boxes than the sloop (thanks to Arne and Seb for help) and the ketch option that I've looked at, from the boat's point of view. And many more from the crew's. Incredibly generous and helpful writings/postings by Slieve McGalliard, Paul McKay, Edward Hooper and others have firmed up this view. So why didn't I listen to Annie's suggestion a year ago when I first posted on the subject of our conversion to look at a split junk? Ignorance has cost me a year... I am sketching sail plans, trying to find a mast position and looking at sheeting arrangements,  Can anyone help with these questions?

    1. A/R:  I like the higher aspect ratio rigs, so I don't want to go too low for aesthetic reasons.. My 'nearly optimal' drawing (based roughly on Poppy's sail proportions but with 35% balance) is giving an aesthetically OK A/R of about 1.9. It is slightly short in the boom/chord, and my aim is to have as little sheet sweeping the cockpit as possible, and in this respect reducing height/increasing chord to an A/R of 1.75 or less might help. How low can I take the A/R of a SJ sail without wrecking its performance?

    2. Sheeting:  if I can't get the end of the boom far enough aft, would double sheets (side by side) work better in many respects on the 'more' balanced SJR than on a conventional JR, or am I going to end up adding complexity back into the rig by then needing parrels to keep the balance where we want it when on a run?

    3. Our centreboard 6 ton/29ft gaffer handles well but like many she carries a bit of weather helm, which must slow her down to windward. It's not severe, but I'm afraid I don't have rudder angles to be more specific. Re-rigging with SJR gives me an opportunity to improve her balance based on our experience of the existing rig. . Would a SJR be subject to Practical Junk Rig's advice on this, namely to position the centre of area of the JR 6% of the w/l aft of the existing conventional rig's c of a? Or dare I go further? Or, if I wanted to play safe, would the 6% suggestion probably do us OK?

    I'd be extremely grateful for any input.

    Pol.

    p.s at least I now know what the planimeter does, that I was given years ago by my father in law. I think it was his father's. It has proved mighty useful when calculating the sail areas of my sketches :)

    Last modified: 09 Nov 2015 15:24 | Anonymous member
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