Stavanger, on a rainy
1. Mars
Phil.
You can of course design your own top section - it’s a free world. Let me rather explain why my master sails ended up the way they did:
- 1. I wanted to use seven panels as long as the AR stayed between 1.80 and 2.25. I have found seven panels to give about the ‘right step’ when I reef away a batten panel..
- 2. I wanted a sail, which can be set with little balance. I prefer little balance (5 – 15%) so that the mast will not cut too much into the cambered panels on the ‘bad tack’. The natural consequence of this is the yard angle of 70°.
- 3. I wanted 10° rise in the boom, to get good clearance, and let me reef without needing to touch the topping lifts.
- 4. I wanted the sail to be based on the Hasler-McLeod standard design, to get as easy lofting and sewing as possible.
- 5. Last, but not least, I wanted all the batten panels to be of about the same area, over the whole range of master sails.
This last point is quite important to me: I had learned from the blue, cambered sail of Malena that her oversize top panels resulted in much increased twist in the sail. With an even distribution of sail area on all batten panels, there will be much less guessing and tweaking needed to get the sheet setup right. The transition panel is the joker here. With all other parameters set, the shape of panel 3 lets me fine-adjust the panel size so they all ended up about equal in area.
If you rather want to add a fifth parallelogram panel, I suggest you redesign the top panels so they end up at the same area as the lower panels. This will result in slightly lower peaking of the yard, but it should not be a big deal on that sail.
Good luck!
Arne
PS: If you have another look at the range of master sails, on Sheet 1 you will find the sail area written on each batten panel. You will then notice that the panels are of about constant size from panel 1 to 7, no matter what AR you look at. Getting this area distribution correct was the major job when I designed these sails.