Aluminum light pole, engineering and conversion to a mast.

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  • 26 Dec 2014 22:46
    Reply # 3177011 on 3176446
    Mark Thomasson wrote:

    Single white mast head light - I think it only vessels below 7m?

    (though it seems eminently sensible to me for any cruising yacht, with a relatively low speed, away from heavy traffic)

    Best Yuletide wishes and fair winds for the Year of the Goat

    Mark

    According to the col regs: A vessel of length less than 12 m may exhibit an all-round white light instead of the masthead light and sternlight.


    Last modified: 26 Dec 2014 22:47 | Anonymous member
  • 24 Dec 2014 17:07
    Reply # 3176446 on 3138712

    Single white mast head light - I think it only vessels below 7m?

    (though it seems eminently sensible to me for any cruising yacht, with a relatively low speed, away from heavy traffic)

    Best Yuletide wishes and fair winds for the Year of the Goat

    Mark

  • 23 Dec 2014 15:31
    Reply # 3174989 on 3138712
    Deleted user

    Annie,

    An alternative would be to have the usual steaming light/deck light just below the top of the mast (below the tricolor but near the top) and a stern light on the pushpit.  I don't think any holes drilled that far up would compromise the mast and there would be no risk of the sail obscuring the light astern.

    Dennis

  • 23 Dec 2014 02:41
    Reply # 3174729 on 3173576
    dennis gibbons wrote:I also see how the all around light would be obscured astern by the top of the JR.  How have others dealt with this dilemma?
    1   Make the mast taller than necessary

    2   Reef when there's shipping about!


  • 22 Dec 2014 15:34
    Reply # 3174335 on 3138712

    In essence the light pole is designed and rated to be a light pole and not a mast for a sailboat.  The oval cutout may or may not be reinforced to take the loads but the assumption is that it is not.  Light poles don't have weight issues like boats do and there are also no stability problems.  It is probable that the manufacturer finds it easier/cheaper to increase the wall thickness of the tube to compensate for the hole.  You could do this also on a boat but the performance would suffer.

    As for using the pole base as the step, there would be no problem for the pole but a large one for the deck.  There would be a tremendous moment to resist.  Imagine the bolts on one side pulling up and the other side pushing down.  The bolts being close together will have very high forces.  In addition to the bolts pushing up or down there will be a twisting force requiring a large deck beam(s).

    If you imagine moving the bolts apart by making the base larger the forces would drop and the twisting moment would be smaller as well.  If the bolts are out at the gunnels they would be acting just like shrouds and chain plates.  Having a keel step and a deck collar also separates the "bolt" forces.  In addition, because of the orientation of the supports, tthe forces in the deck would be horizontal instead of vertical.  This can be resisted by the already existent deck material instead of a post and large deck beams.

    So, by not having an access hole the entire tube material can resit the stress and the pole can be made lighter.  By stepping the mast through the deck on the keel, the deck can be made lighter with less work.  Lighter is almost always synonymous with better performance and in this case would be cheaper as well.

  • 20 Dec 2014 19:03
    Reply # 3173576 on 3138712
    Deleted user

    Peter,

    Thanks for the simple solution

    Annie,

    You are correct about the colrgs. I guess I just got used to seeing a steaming light above the spreaders.  I also see how the all around light would be obscured astern by the top of the JR.  How have others dealt with this dilemma?

  • 20 Dec 2014 10:43
    Reply # 3173467 on 3171359
    Anonymous
    When I renewed all the cables in my masts (aluminium poles 12.5m each on a Freedom 35 cat ketch) three years ago, I used three oversized cable ties oriented starwise on the bundles about 0.5m apart. There has been no clanking or banging up to now. I think this was recommended in a Freedom board elsewhere in the web.

    Greetings, Peter

    Last modified: 20 Dec 2014 10:47 | Anonymous
  • 20 Dec 2014 02:55
    Reply # 3173409 on 3171359
    dennis gibbons wrote:

    I read that most people use a conduit up the pole for lights atop the mast. It the conduit held in place by pop rivets or the poured phone?  Also, what about the steaming light? You would have to be able to access that conduit just above where the halyard tops off the yard.  My thought was pop rivet to the forward wall and have a break in the conduit. fish the wire out the front for the steaming light.

    Anyone see a problems with that?

    Dennis, I wouldn't want to be making holes in my mast.  I just shoved up some closed cell foam mats so that when the conduit chose to rattle, it wouldn't be very noisy.  In fact it very rarely hits the mast, but the fact that the top third is wooden might have something to do with this.

    If your boat is under (I think) 12m, you can an all-round, white masthead light as a combined stern and steaming light.  The drawbacks of this as a stern light have been discussed elsewhere in these fora.

  • 17 Dec 2014 05:50
    Reply # 3171536 on 3138712

    Hi Dennis,

    the way I ran the conduit on Arcadian's mast was to spiral it around the inner surface under compression from a junction box at the base to one on the mast top. This has proved trouble free over the three years that the masts have been in place with no banging or rattling of the conduit. This method saves boring holes in the mast for the rivets. For the steaming light I installed a second junction box inside the mast above the yard location, the front of the mast is the least stressed aspect so holes for the bolts and wires should not cause a problem.

    All the best, David.

  • 16 Dec 2014 23:06
    Reply # 3171359 on 3138712
    Deleted user

    I read that most people use a conduit up the pole for lights atop the mast. It the conduit held in place by pop rivets or the poured phone?  Also, what about the steaming light? You would have to be able to access that conduit just above where the halyard tops off the yard.  My thought was pop rivet to the forward wall and have a break in the conduit. fish the wire out the front for the steaming light.

    Anyone see a problems with that?

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