Sheet to tiller self steering, windvanes, and autopilots

  • 31 Jan 2017 20:41
    Reply # 4578219 on 1493031
    Deleted user
    Annie and Arne, i have a feeling that you're both right about the vane. I think there's a bit that could be done to improve the vane's performance but I'm wondering if its design doesn't suit the boat. Fantail is one of those boats that I think a beginner would tend to oversteer on a run. The helm does load and she naturally yaws when running, and a steady grasp of the tiller resists this and holds her straight. 

    I'm inclined to think that the scalloping downwind is due to a combination of Fantail's behaviour and the design of the servo. Once Fantail begins yawing, the servo blade swings to the wrong side to correct this. I'm guessing that the reason is because the angle of attack of the servo blade, which is set by the combination of the vane angle and feedback from the rudder, overpowers the servo blade's tendency to swing due to the yawing action of the hull. My guess is that the motion of the tiller feeds back through servo, which is resisted by the vane, resulting in the pitch of the servo blade being set in the wrong direction. All this happening in concert with the correct action of the system makes it hard to analyse.

    Annie, has the vane ever operated successfully on a run? To my untrained eye it looks as if the servo tiller needs to be above the rotating axis of the servo in order to prevent the tiller feeding the servo blade pitch incorrectly when running. I'd like to be wrong about this as it would be a major redesign to correct. 

    I'd really like to hear from David and anyone else who has ideas...


  • 31 Jan 2017 20:28
    Reply # 4578195 on 1493031

    OK, the video is showing the classic rhythmic oversteer that is normally due to lack of negative feedback, but can also arise due to other causes:

    1. Friction - check all bearings, main rudder included, and get rid of it.
    2. Backlash/lost motion: Arne has a good point, on other points of sail but a dead run, the gear is generally only applying helm in one direction, but on a dead run, it is having to work in both directions. There were  two blocks in the primary linkage, turning the lines through 90 degrees, that tend to nod to and fro causing lost motion. These were meant to be temporary, and to be replaced by fixed sheaves, but have maybe become "temporarily permanent". Biassing the gear with a bungee is worth trying.
    3. Inertia and mass balance: we can't do much about inertia, but we can make sure that everything is working towards a mild self-centring effect. Vane bottom-heavy, servo blade front-heavy.
    Annie is right: a balanced spade rudder is the worst type to try to drive with a pendulum, as it is so easy to overpower. This was the case on Blondie's boat Pilmer, a Kingfisher 20. We could not get a Hasler SP pendulum gear to work unless we fixed the steering lines to the tiller at three times the normal radius (another thing worth trying), though of course, this only gave one third of the normal deflection, and the vane gear could not be used to tack the boat. This was partly due to inertia, as well as the balanced rudder - the heavy plywood vane was slow to keep up with the speed of turning of the boat. We invented what Blondie called a "gate gear" (because it swung around a vertical axis), and this did the trick, but it never went into commercial production. The 45 degree power axis of the gear that is now on Fantail is headed in this direction, but is not as aggressive in its self-centring effect. Nevertheless, these were too aggressive for use on Tystie, and were replaced by servos with an angle of 30 degrees - still very effective at yaw damping, but with a wider range of helm angles than the 45 degree servos.

    There's a whole chapter in John Letcher's book Self Steering for Sailing Craft that discusses all of this in detail.

  • 31 Jan 2017 19:48
    Reply # 4578151 on 1493031
    I have a feeling (ie unsubtantiated by any theory) that the balanced rudder carries its share of blame for the bad manners down wind.  Steering by hand, one doesn't need to move the tiller much at all to keep on track, while under wind vane the tiller is taking big sweeps from side to side.  My feeling is that the balance essentially causes the windvane to oversteer.  One is going downwind - the least sensitive point for a windvane - and when it realises it's off course it tries to make a fairly large adjustment; the rudder goes well over and being balanced, makes a violent course alteration so instead of coming back 'central' whips over the other way; the vane says 'oops, too much' and shoves hard the other way, etc, etc.

    As for the cloth being taut - well temperature affects it a bit, but being nylon and about three years old, I fear that if Bryan so much as took a firm grip on it, his fingers would go right through!

  • 31 Jan 2017 09:45
    Reply # 4577229 on 1493031
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Bryan,

    I guess the rudder is close to neutral when you run in these moderate conditions. When close-hauled and reaching, the weather helm may ensure that the windvane system has to push to the same side all the time, while downwind, with near neutral helm the wind will change side.

    I only had a windvane operational for two seasons. I found that it was not so critical to keep the vane to tiller lines very taut (direct drive, no servo). On the other hand, the windvane was from plywood, so reacted very precisely at fine angles. I notice that your vane is of the canvas type and that the canvas is quite slack. This is no doubt fine when generous vane forces are needed, but I wonder if there is a too wide zone where the slack canvas will produce no lift at all?  Re-lashing the vane canvas may help.

    Just a thought.

    Arne

    PS: Another method; if you attach a bungee to the tiller to produce some steering bias  -  artificial weather helm  -  then the windvane  and servo will have to fight against that, and the slack cloth in the vane should be no problem. That would be easy to test, at least.


    Last modified: 31 Jan 2017 09:47 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 31 Jan 2017 02:54
    Reply # 4576947 on 4576520
    Deleted user
    David Tyler wrote:

    The point of the 45 degree power axis is that the self-centring action of the servo is absolutely yuge, to the point where, if something is managing to override its strong urge to stay central, that something must also be yuge. 

    Try this diagnostic test. Disconnect the primary linkage lines that connect the vane to the servo, and connect the servo to the tiller. Sail downwind. The boat should very slowly alter course one way or the other, as the servo is sensing a yaw and trying to damp it, but the vane is not there to apply a correction. If this is satisfactory, steer the boat using the pressure of one finger on the little tiller within the servo. It should be possible to push that tiller a little, resulting in a stable course correction, and then when it is released, it should slowly, but stably, return to a central position. 

    You say that there is a rhythmic oscillation. First, are you sure that there's not just a wildly fluctuating apparent wind due to sailing downwind fast? Second, are you sure that all moving parts are exhibiting a mildly self-centring action? That is, that the vane is not top-heavy (even when wet); the servo blade is not over-balanced; the centre of gravity of the servo blade and its tiller are just forward of the axis around which it rotates (the tiller should have a lead weight on it); the vertical servo shaft is moving very freely (grease it); Fantail's main rudder is not stiff or over-balanced; and anything else of this sort. Any of those factors might be to blame.

    It's very difficult to try to diagnose this problem without being on the spot. Would you be willing to buy me a first class air ticket to NZ? Failing that, could you take a photo of the gear from side on, in its current state, and take a video of the gear when this kind of action is actually in progress?

    Thanks David.

    Right, tests done. Yugeness follows:

    With the vane to servo lines disconnected, the servo can sort-of lock the tiller in place. In the somewhat fluky offshore wind just south of Cape Brett, it's a bit much for the servo to keep a small sway under control, but it will more or less tame Fantail's need for weather helm once she is not dead downwind. Starting from a pure run though, Fantail will soon round up. If the servo is set to provide a small amount of helm, it will hold a less-than -pure downwind course for a while. Fantail can be steered by the oar tiller... the pressure is 'moderate', and considerably more than is required to turn the oar tiller with the rudder tiller disconnected.

    I'd love to blame Fantail's antifoul-blistering speed downwind, but sadly no... not today. There's a little slop in the vane bearings... she deserves better blocks... but I can't help feeling that feedback is the issue.

    I've uploaded a video of what's going on - link to follow. I can't afford your air ticket but I could scoot over in my wee two seater and pick you up...

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n_Fw_BRWPo4

    Side on photo to come...

    (Note that the miserable state of lines and poor adjustment in the video is because I'd just retied the lines by leaning over the transom after the the previous test. The behaviour is just as bad if everything is tweaked to perfection.)

    Last modified: 31 Jan 2017 06:53 | Deleted user
  • 30 Jan 2017 21:19
    Reply # 4576520 on 1493031

    The point of the 45 degree power axis is that the self-centring action of the servo is absolutely yuge, to the point where, if something is managing to override its strong urge to stay central, that something must also be yuge. 

    Try this diagnostic test. Disconnect the primary linkage lines that connect the vane to the servo, and connect the servo to the tiller. Sail downwind. The boat should very slowly alter course one way or the other, as the servo is sensing a yaw and trying to damp it, but the vane is not there to apply a correction. If this is satisfactory, steer the boat using the pressure of one finger on the little tiller within the servo. It should be possible to push that tiller a little, resulting in a stable course correction, and then when it is released, it should slowly, but stably, return to a central position. 

    You say that there is a rhythmic oscillation. First, are you sure that there's not just a wildly fluctuating apparent wind due to sailing downwind fast? Second, are you sure that all moving parts are exhibiting a mildly self-centring action? That is, that the vane is not top-heavy (even when wet); the servo blade is not over-balanced; the centre of gravity of the servo blade and its tiller are just forward of the axis around which it rotates (the tiller should have a lead weight on it); the vertical servo shaft is moving very freely (grease it); Fantail's main rudder is not stiff or over-balanced; and anything else of this sort. Any of those factors might be to blame.

    It's very difficult to try to diagnose this problem without being on the spot. Would you be willing to buy me a first class air ticket to NZ? Failing that, could you take a photo of the gear from side on, in its current state, and take a video of the gear when this kind of action is actually in progress?

  • 30 Jan 2017 20:07
    Reply # 4576370 on 4095556
    Deleted user
    David Tyler wrote:
    Bryan Tuffnell wrote:

    I wonder if there's some instability caused by the turning of the boat driving the servo blade - have you seen this happening? If the boat is yawing, the servo blade - being outboard will 'feel' that yaw and might rotate in response, further driving the helm. ?

    The servo blade, feeling a yaw, tries to work against it and damp it. That's the very big plus that the servo pendulum has over all other types of control surface. Ironically, though, if the servo blade is overbalanced, this effect will be increased. The problem is that it will over-correct. An overbalanced servo blade is trying to throw itself right out to the end of its stroke, and then as the vane finally gets enough incidence on, and manages to turn it, right out to the other end of its stroke.
    I'm still working on Fantail's vane performance when running. With the vane now inclined at 20 degrees and the oar raked after a few degrees, the wildness of the rhythmic oscillations have been reduced but are still unacceptable. 

    What I'm wondering is that while the oar itself feels yaw and responds in the correct sense to damp it, the pitch axis of the oar is fed in the incorrect sense by the rudder during yaw for a constant vane angle. It's a real challenge to figure out which dominates - a bit like trying to decide which rider on a tandem bicycle is pedaling harder.

    If the above is the case, the solution would appear to be relocating the oar pitch tiller above the oar's axis of rotation. 

    I may be missing the point of the 45 degree angle of the oar rotation axis. The plane of the course setting axis, which sets this angle exactly, means that as the oar swings away from vertical, it arcs forward somewhat (to the extent that it can clout the transom).

    Is AskDavid open for business? 

  • 07 Dec 2016 10:33
    Reply # 4444428 on 1493031
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Here is the link to a free PDF-book of Andrew Evans, which also deals with sheet to tiller self-steering:

    http://sfbaysss.net/resource/doc/SinglehandedTipsThirdEdition.pdf

    and the paper version can be bought here:

    https://www.amazon.com/Singlehanded-Sailing-Thoughts-Techniques-Tactics/dp/0071836535

    Arne





  • 03 Dec 2016 15:55
    Reply # 4437767 on 1493031
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Earlier in this thread I have expressed my preference for windvanes over sheet to tiller self steering. Besides, for my modest sort of sailing, I have made do with a simple tiller lock.

    However, after having read John Letcher’s book (..thanks, Annie...), in particular chapter 3, on ways of hooking the sheet up to the tiller, I am about to be converted  -  or at least very curious. On my Ingeborg, the sheet and tiller layout happens to be very well suited for sheet to tiller control. It will not cost much in work or money to try it.

    I still regard the windvanes  as the best for long distance cruising, since they can hold a course even straight downwind. Still, if the windvane breaks down, a sheet to tiller arrangement could be a useful backup.

    Let’s hope the winter will be short  -  I want to try this!

    Cheers, Arne

    PS: This topic has now found its place among my favourites...

     

     


    Last modified: 03 Dec 2016 15:56 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 27 Nov 2016 05:41
    Reply # 4413140 on 4412855
    Annie Hill wrote:I was just looking on the Jester Challenge website and came across an interesting item.  John Letcher has allowed his book to be downloaded, for personal use only and you can do so from the website.
    Well spotted!!  Thank you :-)
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