Junk Rig Calculator

  • 11 Jul 2016 12:54
    Reply # 4123658 on 1420814

    Paul et al, thanks to JRA member Malcolm I just updated the JRCalc with different modulus of rupture for the different wood types. Source:

    http://www.conradfp.com/pdf/ch4-Mechanical-Properties-of-Wood.pdf

    Before I just used a generic value of 50 MPa for all of them, as I (as far as I remember) couldn't find any data at the time. The following values are now used:

    Cedar, western red: 52 MPa
    Spruce, Norwegian: 72 MPa (although it's USA spruce in the PDF, so just guessing here)
    Douglas fir: 87 MPa
    Oak: 96 MPa

    http://jrcalc.oscarfroberg.com/

  • 04 Dec 2013 14:13
    Reply # 1451452 on 1420814
    Deleted user
    Thanks Arne, I appreciate all your work over the years. Here in the US they have not moved on from lbs/ft & ins.
  • 03 Dec 2013 23:33
    Reply # 1451132 on 1420814
    Anonymous member (Administrator)
    Paul,

    If you look up «Arne on mast scantlings, ver3.4 …», found under the technical files, here, you will find that I use the strength of wood to be

     

    Strength = 427kp/square cm

    Correction 20160717: Strength =457kp/sq cm= 45MPa 

    This was the strength of spruce, I think. There are stronger woods, but they are much heavier. I wrote that thing before I came up with the idea of modifying the PJR formula for wooden masts.

    Now, if I got it right, then…

     

    1kp/sq cm = 14.22psi.

     

    In other words…

     

    that spruce of 427kp/sq cm is  6072psi in Imperial numbers

     

    Nowadays, the strength of steel and aluminium is often given in MPa=Newton/sq mm

    Then, just remember that …

     

    1MPa= 145.0337psi

     

    Cheers, Arne

    Last modified: 17 Jul 2016 23:07 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 03 Dec 2013 22:46
    Reply # 1451100 on 1420814
    Deleted user

    And now a simple question - what rupture stress are you using for tthe wood mast calculations? I have seen tablulated figures of 1,400 psi to 10,400 psi.

    I want to use the Practical Jung Rig equations (with Arnes corrections) but want convert to steel masts.

    Having three masts makes calculating mast size from the righting moment a little hit and miss.

  • 09 Nov 2013 03:49
    Reply # 1431157 on 1430209
    Ash Woods wrote:It seems to my by comparison with other pictures, that the mast position is  quite far aft, compared with several other Fan rigs , though I have no idea of your Fantails underwater profile or the CE on the BR before conversion.

    Your eye does not deceive you.  Had I put the foot of the mast in the usual place it would have come through my bunk.  I like my bunk and didn't want to spoil it.  In order to get around the problem, I chose to rake the mast well forward, which I think looks really great, too.  Arne was shocked at my decision, but I sleep more than I sail, so that's the choice I made.  As it turns out the rig works just fine.

    Its good that you have no problem with weather helm - or lee?

    I get a tad of lee helm when close-hauled in very light winds.

    Are your Hong Kong parrels off for good now?

    Yes they are.  I really didn't like them and they were putting loads on the battens that worried me.
    I'm sure you'll be delighted with the results: you are doing the ideal thing in putting JR on a really good hull.  I bet it will give you heaps of pleasure and satisfaction.
  • 08 Nov 2013 20:13
    Reply # 1430896 on 1420814
    Deleted user

    Arne and David,

    Most helpful, thanks again.

     

  • 08 Nov 2013 17:29
    Reply # 1430785 on 1430209
    Ash Woods wrote:

    Annie,

    It seems to me by comparison with other pictures, that the mast position is  quite far aft, compared with several other Fan rigs , though I have no idea of your Fantails underwater profile or the CE on the BR before conversion.

    Ash,
    If you go to Members area>Your Files>JRA members files>Drawings> Annies Conversion, you will find Raven 26 sailplan.dxf and Raven 26 sailplan.pdf. The drawing includes the underwater profile and the CE positions of both rigs.
  • 08 Nov 2013 11:11
    Reply # 1430429 on 1420814
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Stavanger, Friday

    A quick way of sketching up a sloop rig.

    Ash, could I suggest my quick sketching procedure?

    ·         I start with deciding where the CE should sit compared to the boat’s CLR, centre of lateral position. Normally I reduce the lead, compared to that of the Bm rig, a bit (5% of the wll).

    ·         Then I draw the boom with 10 deg rise. The CE of my Johanna-style sails is just about on the middle of the boom, or just an inch or two forward of it. The position of the mast will decide how long the boom has to be to get the CE right. On my Johanna, the deck layout forced the mast to sit far forward, so the boom had to be long, and thus the AR low.

    ·         Then I draw a vertical luff line, a bit longer than I need.

    ·         From this luff line I now draw a yard with 70 deg peaking and same length as the boom.

    Now I am almost there: I just measure the vertical length, h, from the peak of the yard, down to the boom. I have found, by checking several sail plans, that the

     

                                 sail area = 0.79 x boom x h.

     

    This correction factor, 0.79, has proven to be constant within 1 - 2% with various aspect ratios, as long as the boom rise is 10 deg and the yard is 70 deg.

    This lets me quickly try with several yard positions until I get the sail area I want. Now the AR can easily be found as

     

                                 AR=h : chord

     

    This sketching method lets one easily assess several rig sizes and mast positions without needing to draw the full sails.

    From there on it is the task of drawing the sail with as equal sail area as possible in each panel. To save me from work, I now use the CAD to scale up or down a standard sail plan that I have stored. It can of course also be done manually. Now that the CE and SA are known, there should be less need for drawing several sail plans.

    Good luck!

    Arne

     

    PS: I still use HK parrels, but they see less load, now that the throat hauling parrels have been re-discovered.

    Last modified: 08 Nov 2013 12:31 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 08 Nov 2013 00:33
    Reply # 1430209 on 1420814
    Deleted user

    Hi Arne and Anne,

     

    Arne I am not sure what aspect ratio I need, I want initially  to build a 0.5 Msq model; and to draw about 30m2 SA and send to you with sketch of my boat - to ask if that's about right, given LOA. disp etc , will be a week or two - if that's ok?

    Anne thanks - I have looked through your conversion and construction, I think it looks really good and am glad you are happy with it.

    It seems to my by comparison with other pictures, that the mast position is  quite far aft, compared with several other Fan rigs , though I have no idea of your Fantails underwater profile or the CE on the BR before conversion.

    Its good that you have no problem with weather helm - or lee?

    I am waiting for a copy of PJR to arrive and once I have read up about CE vs CLR etc I will probably have a better idea what I am talking about in relation to JR.

    Are your Hong Kong parrels off for good now?

    Thanks everyone for all the wonderful info available. Currently I am a kid in a sweetshop, spoilt for choice but will filter all the info and come up with a decision eventually for type of rig.

    However there is no hurry and I am enjoying the process immensely.

  • 07 Nov 2013 12:04
    Reply # 1429633 on 1420814
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

                                                       Stavanger, Thursday

    Oscar

    I would not alter the SA of the Johanna-style sail by just stretching or crimping it along the y-axis. That would stretch/crimp the yard and two top battens  compared to the lower ones and I design my sails with equal batten length.

    This is why I design a series of 7-panel standard sails with AR between 1.8 and 2.2. These have been carefully designed to give the top panels the same area as the lower panels, or just a bit smaller.

     

    From these standard sails it would of course be possible to feed the data into spreadsheets.

    Personally I still tend to work in semi-manual mode:

    • I first print out the boat, with the original rig removed, to a useful scale.
    • Then I sketch on a preliminary rig
    • Then I draw an accurate sail in QCAD, based on the sketch and a standard sail of same AR. This is very quick.
    • Finally I print out the sail on a transparent in the same scale as the boat.

    This transparent sail can then be given the final position on the boat drawing and I can then scan the final result (sheet 1). When constructing the sail I use the CAD-based sheet 2, 3 and 4, where the numbers are written on.

     

    Actually, all this focusing on computer techniques may make members think that computers are a must  to get the JR right. They are not. One may well design a good junk sail with just pencil and paper, a scale ruler, a pair of compasses and a calculator. A piece of chain for the chain calculator may also be an idea to get the round right for your intended camber. I mainly have taken CAD into use to save me time. The gain in accuracy is nice to have as well, but it's not rocket science to make a JR, after all.

    My method may sound primitive and slow, but a JR project is not just a keyboard exercise. I generally end up sewing the sail, and that takes five times as much time as making the finished drawing for it. (I don't reckon the time used on "pre-design speculations"). And then comes the construction of the mast step and partners, and the mast , and, and...

     

    Arne

    PS: I admit that I am not without scepticism to spreadsheets: Their hidden algorithms may be right  -  or wrong. Expanding the sails with CAD makes it easier to see the result.

    PPS: The sailplan of Frøken Sørensen  shows the four sheets of CAD-generated sail plans. They turned out to be very easy to work from. You find the plan under here:

    http://www.junkrigassociation.org/arne

     

    Last modified: 08 Nov 2013 09:35 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
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