Anonymous wrote:

Thanks for the old write up - it is quite helpful.  I'm not sure where I picked up the term "snotter" - either in Colvin's writings or Hasler-McLeod.  Whichever it was, the purpose of the line was described solely as keeping the top yard close to the mast when on the tack where it pulls away from the mast if only attached by the halyard.  Your peak and throat hauling discussion gives me an entirely new perspective to think through!

Colvin calls the YHP a snotter, it's a term actually borrowed from the sprit rigs.

The YHP or Yard Hauling Parral as defined in PJR is strictly for pulling the hard tightly against the mast. It has nothing to do with peaking it.

I personally like using the PJR terminology as it's mostly well understood and its easy to refer people to the page and/or fig that explains what I am talking about.

Paul Sommers wrote:

Thanks for the explanation, and forgive my sense of humor, but I think I need to add a (I don't know what it's called!) per your explanation, and I will have close to the same setup.  I also get confused by terminology used on this JRA website because I got started with junks with a Colvin Gazelle, and I read several of his books, which use very different terms.  I tell anyone that my boat has a snotter, and if they are using JRA-speak, they look at me funny!  Snotter = line from sling around the mast, back to block on the sling, down to the deck and back to the cockpit.  It keeps the top yard close the mast and must therefore be adjusted after a reef, and loosened before taking out a reef.  Is this a yard hauling parrel in JRA parlance?

Paul,
yes, your 'snotter' is the same as what we call the YHP or Yard Hauling Parrel. For my own use, I have made Norwegian terms on most of the junk rig components. The YHP I call 'pigger' or 'peaker' in English, as it is used to peak up the yard, almost like a peak halyard (Norw. piggfall) in gaff rigs.
These terms, like yard hauling parrels, are in my view way to dry and academic-sounding and anything but salty...

Cheers,

Arne

PS These days I tie the YHP block on the yard further aft and up from the halyard's slingpoint, about 2/3 up.

PPS: Maybe this old write-up about the YHP and THP could be useful?

http://goo.gl/r0fwCf

Anonymous wrote:

(before I install a new Pelagic to replace an old Raymarine tiller pilot I broke in quartering seas off the Pacific Coast of Mexico).

Oh, and the Pelagic tiller pilot is brilliant! I hardly touch my tiller when underway :)

Tony - how are you going about changing the balance?  Are you moving the sling attachment point on the sails?  Or just tweaking running rigging somehow?  My "Badger" Etoile du Sud has strong weather helm so I am thinking I need the same adjustment (before I install a new Pelagic to replace an old Raymarine tiller pilot I broke in quartering seas off the Pacific Coast of Mexico).

Hi Guys, I’ve been trying to keep a low profile, but perhaps a comment on this thread might be useful.

It was just after I’d built Poppy’s rig that I met Roger Stollery, a leading light in the model sailing world, who told me that he had run a series of experiments with balanced rigs on model yachts, increasing the balance to find the limits. He finally settled at 33% area balance as a safe and practical limit, that is one third of the area in front of the mast and two thirds behind. On model rigs there is really no slot as the leech of the jibs brush the mast.

The second SJR I drew had the mast placed at 35% jib luff to main leech, reckoning that the area balance would be below the 33% figure as the rig is taller behind the mast due to the yard angle. The rig was built at some 500 sq.ft and was completely stable, and when used for club racing swept the board.

Since then I have simply settled for the mast at 33.3% jib luff to main leech for simplicity sake. Having played with string and batten rig models of around 70 sq.ft I found that the rig ‘hung’ well from a yard at about 30º to the horizontal, and then tried to balance the taper in the leech and luff of the top panel to discourage creasing. With the high balance a batten angle of only 5º is practical.

I think the big point is that initially I found the rig performed better than I expected. The expected drive was there, but it felt as if the drag was particularly low, and the early experience of windward heeling seemed to confirm this. This has left me with the opinion that the induced drag due to the low yard angle and tip of the yard being high but well aft was an important contributing factor.

In practice I have never added area above the Bermudian rig area, normally aiming for full main and number 2 Genoa for area, and feedback seems to suggest that this is satisfactory.

Regarding Arne’s thoughts on the need for the split I will admit I have also wondered about this. My one concern apart from wear and pinching of the material on the mast would be friction when hoisting of handing the rig. Somehow it might be impractical when the wind is light.

So that leaves my latest thinking on the rig as only a few parallel split panels and a single unsplit top panel with just a little taper for aesthetic reasons, and to keep the yard shorter than the battens. With combined batten parrel/downhauls there’s really no need for other stringy bits. How simple can you get?

Cheers, Slieve.