Lacing cambered panels individually to battens?

  • 17 Jan 2024 23:48
    Reply # 13302469 on 13302070
    Anonymous wrote:

    Paul
    I guess it is the barrel-cut method I use which is the culprit here, not the Amateur method B alone. It is a bit too much to ask for a perfect, wrinkle-free set of the baggy batten panels, when the panel started as a flat sheet of sailcloth, with no broadseams or shelves added.

    Arne, it is possible to get a pretty smooth sail with both "method B" pockets and your "barrel cut" system. I explored exactly that when I made Graham Cox's Blue Moon sail. Of course I still did the luff and leach my way.
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    Last modified: 17 Jan 2024 23:51 | Anonymous member
  • 17 Jan 2024 23:44
    Reply # 13302464 on 13302071
    Anonymous wrote:
    Paul wrote:

    Sorry folks, you can make a good looking sail and also one that sets well using "method B" for batten pockets because I have done so many times. Below I post two photos of Fanshi's sail, one of each side. Unfortunately not exactly the same view on both sides but showing enough to make my point.

    But Paul, these two photos both show the sail blowing away from the batten! They don't show what happens on the other tack, so I don't think that your point is made.

    Further, I contend that the issue here is not whether you, a very skilled, very experienced sailmaker, can use method B to make a good looking sail - you can, clearly. It is whether method B should be used by a first time sailmaker, or whether there is one that will give a better result.

     You are right David and I only realised that after I posted my 5 cents worth. However it has proved nearly impossible to find a photo of Fanshi on the port tack. Eventually I found a photo of Taiko with Fanshi in the background and on the required tack and I clipped Fanshi out. A bit fuzzy but I think you can still see the sail is presentable.

    I suspect it would be hard to beat "method B" as an easy method of adding batten pockets. Structurally, it certainly is not ideal but since in this application the seam is not very stressed I do think it is an acceptable compromise.

    If you stop the pocket short of the luff and leach as I do and flatten the the seam, you both make the seam stronger and get a more visually satisfying result. The other thing is to keep the seam as narrow as possible while still consistent with adequate strength.  

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  • 17 Jan 2024 13:27
    Reply # 13302107 on 13300982

    Paul wrote:

    Sorry folks, you can make a good looking sail and also one that sets well using "method B" for batten pockets because I have done so many times.

    For me, Paul, your FanShi sail is pretty perfect. With our Annie's sail (I put "our Annie" to avoid confusion!) I should have snugged the  pocket in a bit more, and it might have got to a little closer in appearance to your neat job on FanShi's.

    Arne wrote:

    In short, the rig was not completed yet.

    You are quite right, Arne, and the differences, even without Hong Kong parrels, were clear once we got to putting some more rigging on the sail! I didn't  make time to attend to the tension along the battens. Looking back, I was a disgrace to my ship.

    David T wrote:

    Further, I contend that the issue here is not whether you, a very skilled, very experienced sailmaker, can use method B to make a good looking sail - you can, clearly. It is whether method B should be used by a first time sailmaker, or whether there is one that will give a better result.

    I'm sure I could have made a better job of ours if I had just concentrated on minimising the flop factor when positioning the pocket cloth for sewing. Not sure, however, if it would have made as much difference to the set of our sail as would just rigging it correctly ;) 

    On a more general note, family cruising has always been a little fraught with all the variable priorities aboard. I, for one, find myself "making do" and our first cruise with our new rig was full of that for various reasons. ! I dream now of having a week aboard either alone or just the two of us to potter about with the ship our main priority. Things will be a lot clearer the second time around.

    Thanks again to you all.

    Pol.

  • 17 Jan 2024 08:41
    Reply # 13302071 on 13301989
    Paul wrote:

    Sorry folks, you can make a good looking sail and also one that sets well using "method B" for batten pockets because I have done so many times. Below I post two photos of Fanshi's sail, one of each side. Unfortunately not exactly the same view on both sides but showing enough to make my point.

    But Paul, these two photos both show the sail blowing away from the batten! They don't show what happens on the other tack, so I don't think that your point is made.

    Further, I contend that the issue here is not whether you, a very skilled, very experienced sailmaker, can use method B to make a good looking sail - you can, clearly. It is whether method B should be used by a first time sailmaker, or whether there is one that will give a better result.

    Last modified: 17 Jan 2024 08:57 | Anonymous member
  • 17 Jan 2024 08:20
    Reply # 13302070 on 13300982
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Paul
    I guess it is the barrel-cut method I use which is the culprit here, not the Amateur method B alone. It is a bit too much to ask for a perfect, wrinkle-free set of the baggy batten panels, when the panel started as a flat sheet of sailcloth, with no broadseams or shelves added.

    The sail of my Johanna was conventionally assembled by a professional sail maker, and this also had the barrel-cut related wrinkles in it. The key to get the best set is to have just enough tension along the battens. Too much tension and the batten panels will not inflate properly. Too little and there will be many small wrinkles along the battens (as in Johanna’s sail).

    Get the tension and the critical parrels (THP and maybe HKP) right, and the sail will look quite good, and surely perform as well as any.

    When David Ty. inspected Pol’s Annie, in 2018, neither the THP, nor any HK parrels were on. Even the tack parrel (TP) and tack line (TL) were missing. In short, the rig was not completed yet.

    Below, Johanna can be seen. I guess I had slackened the sail a bit more than needed along the battens, but since Johanna performed so well, I didn’t bother with touching it.
    I am a sailor, not a salesman...

    Arne

    (.. full size photo in my album: "My boats"...)

    Last modified: 17 Jan 2024 08:23 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 17 Jan 2024 00:48
    Reply # 13301989 on 13300982

    Sorry folks, you can make a good looking sail and also one that sets well using "method B" for batten pockets because I have done so many times. Below I post two photos of Fanshi's sail, one of each side. Unfortunately not exactly the same view on both sides but showing enough to make my point.

    2 files
  • 16 Jan 2024 19:30
    Reply # 13301837 on 13300982

    Thanks a lot, David. Ignorance, in terms of what our 2018 sail could look like, was bliss. I'll be looking at this job with the benefit of a little more experience from the last few years, and a lot of help from these discussions.

    Pol.

  • 16 Jan 2024 18:20
    Reply # 13301786 on 13301566
    Arne wrote:

    David Ty’s Amateur method C may produce a better-looking sail, with the batten pockets sitting more closely to it.

    I still recommend Method B...

    If I recall correctly, the sail looked quite OK on the starboard tack, where it was blowing away from the batten, and bad to the point of making me wince, when it was blowing towards the batten on port tack. It was this crumpled, creased appearance due to the batten being well away from the sail that caused me to recommend alternatives. Maybe it doesn't happen to any great extent with soft cloth, but it certainly does with more rigid filled and calendered sailcloth. Maybe it doesn't matter for anyone who sets appearance somewhere down towards the bottom end of their list of priorities. 

    Anyway, I would just like to make this general point: whenever there are conflicting recommendations, or pros and cons, or trade-offs (or there are new techniques, materials or tools to become familiar with), it always pays to make one or more test pieces, so as to learn, compare and contrast, and finally settle on whatever's going to work best for you. 

  • 16 Jan 2024 13:56
    Reply # 13301610 on 13300982

    Thanks, Arne. Your reasons for Method B are logical. I'm lucky in that I've already got the fairly-well-tried spec. for my battens, and I'm unlikely to wear out pockets cos I just don't do enough sailing :( But point taken.

    Pol.

  • 16 Jan 2024 11:35
    Reply # 13301566 on 13300982
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    David Ty’s Amateur method C may produce a better-looking sail, with the batten pockets sitting more closely to it.

    I still recommend Method B, and that for a couple of reasons.

    • 1.      Step one in assembling the sail consists of joining the batten panels, using that super-simple panel-joining seam. Very little brain- or clever finger-work is needed.
    • 2.      After adding the batten pockets with that batten pocket seam on top of (and thus hiding) the panel-joining seam, these pockets may later be removed and replaced if needed. One only has to rip open the batten pocket seam, leaving the panel-joining seam intact.

    Actually, the need for replacing one or more batten pockets appears to be more realistic to me than needing to replace whole panels. One may have chosen too thin battens and needs wider pockets, or the pockets at the mast may have been worn through and need to be replaced. Quite a job, just to remove that sail from the boat, but at least, new pockets can be fitted without the sail falling apart and without needing to pass a big bundle under the sewing machine's arm.

    Arne


    Last modified: 16 Jan 2024 15:13 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
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