O'day Daysailer ll Mod and Conversion

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  • 13 Jan 2023 16:33
    Reply # 13056020 on 13021193

    Hi Curtis! "WorkerB upgrade" . . . oh no! the upsells begin hahaha. So nope, I didn't get that. Just the basic package was enough to break the bank hahaha! Thanks for the info though, I'll look into to it. 

  • 13 Jan 2023 16:03
    Reply # 13055991 on 13021193
    Deleted user


    Great choice of sewing machine; same model I bought (though I have no plans for making sails with it yet). Did you get the WorkerB upgrade? Definitely worth the money when you need low-speed control.

  • 13 Jan 2023 02:46
    Reply # 13055384 on 13021193

    I've talked to Arne a little about this, but additional perspectives welcome:

    Sailcloth for this rig? (141 sq ft, 600-1200lb displacement, Johanna style, multi-day cruising).

    It's seems like Dacron is not recommended. So it looks like I have 2 obvious choices: 1.5 oz nylon spinnaker cloth, or 6.5oz weathermax 65. Seems like a pretty big trade off in performance vs. durability between the two. What would you recommend? 

  • 12 Jan 2023 18:43
    Reply # 13054768 on 13021193

    Well, I may keep this thread alive throughout the conversion process as a bit of a diary for anyone who may want to convert an O'day DS or similar vessel. Maybe it'll be useful info...

    Here's some updates:

    The last few days were spent milling a couple big white pines with my chainsaw mill to stock material for expanding my pole barn - needing more work space for sailboat projects.

    I also cut a hole in the DS II sole where the mast step will be - needing to see what's going on under there so I can determine mast length before ordering the mast.

    Also, this unusual machine showed up in the mail yesterday which is supposed to aid in converting Arne's paper sail diagrams into an actual physical sail ...

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    Last modified: 12 Jan 2023 18:47 | Anonymous member
  • 09 Jan 2023 20:45
    Reply # 13050333 on 13021193

    Well, I guess I'll refrain from talking about things like bottom paint and interior upholstery :) 

    This is perfect Arne, thanks for the info and pic! 

  • 08 Jan 2023 19:36
    Reply # 13049195 on 13021193
    Anonymous member (Administrator)


    I suggest you start with the Pilmer style sheet. It’s anyway no big deal to change between the Pilmer style and the slightly more complicated Johanna style sheet later. I only warn against using a sheet with 4, 5 or 6-part purchase, in particular on a little boat like this. The 3-part sheet ( from 6 or 8mm, medium-low grade braided line) keeps the friction through the blocks low enough to let the sail swing out even in very light winds.

    Look at the sheeting point of my Ingeborg on the photo below. I suggest you use something similar. However, make it taller: My sheet likes to chew on the tiller of Ingeborg when on the port tack...


    PS: Looking ahead a little during a project is fine, but don’t overdo pondering over every detail, or you may end up not getting started...

    (Check album photo section 8)

    Last modified: 09 Jan 2023 17:02 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 08 Jan 2023 17:03
    Reply # 13049052 on 13021193

    Great thanks!  . . . looks like I got the green light  . . . 

    As for sheets, you know, PJR has this whole zone-calculation for the lower sheet blocks so things don't foul (see pic). It seems like there's plenty of room for the sheeting system on this boat (with this sail), especially if I position the lower sheet blocks as far aft as possible, atop the lazarette. Yes?

    So I guess the question is: What sheeting system would you recommend for this? Johanna style? Pilmer style? Split sheet? . . . something simpler with less friction? (pardon me if you already addressed this, I'm just now diving into chapter 7). 


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  • 08 Jan 2023 09:53
    Reply # 13048843 on 13021193
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    that rig looks OK to me  -  nice and tidy drawing.

    • ·         mast balance of 15%. That gives a good halyard angle of about 12-13°, which will later let you adjust the mast balance up or down a little. Not critical on a cb-dinghy anyway.
    • ·         deck/boom clearance, OK
    • ·         Slingpoint and halyard drift, OK
    • ·         mast line splits yard at 0.43B. Never thought about that...

    As for sheet, I am not sure what you mean. I would anyway extend batten 2 until it is in line with the leech of the lower section.

    Good luck,

    Last modified: 08 Jan 2023 09:59 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 08 Jan 2023 02:11
    Reply # 13048642 on 13021193


    I wanted to check this with you before committing to a specific mast length (and paying a deposit for it).

    I trimmed a little fat from what we had. This is of course a scaled copy of your 1.80 AR master drawing. Questions:

    -balance (.15B)?

    -deck/boom clearance (.5P)?

    -slingpoint and drift (.18B)?

    -mast line splits yard at .43B?

    What about a range for the lower sheet blocks placement? I'm assuming because of your plumb leech that the method from PJR wouldn't work for determining this area? 


    Graeme, thanks for your last post re: sail performance, insightful, cheers!


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  • 05 Jan 2023 09:12
    Reply # 13045376 on 13021193
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Graeme wonders about running rigging requirements on my suggested rig.

    I can say with confidence that four running lines will be needed; halyard, sheet, yard hauling parrel (YHP) and throat hauling parrel (THP).

    The main reason why I have kind of standardized on my sails with seven panels, all of the same area, is that I have found that doing so, I don’t have to re-invent the running lines for each new sail.
    The 3-part Johanna-style sheet fits all (and ensures a controlled twist), as do the other lines. These lines now control the sail of my 2-ton Ingeborg, just as they did on my 200kg dinghy, Broremann.

    For bigger boats (like in Ingeborg), I have introduced the fan-up preventer (FUP), but feel no need for it on dinghy size boats.


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