Sorting out my parrels

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  • 23 Dec 2012 04:01
    Reply # 1165565 on 1164446
    Deleted user
    David Thatcher wrote:For non adjusting parrels try webbing, it slides very easily.

    Has anybody compared the friction of webbing with rope inside hard slippery plastic hose?

    I think I'm going to try something like Paul Fay's system on my mizzen next, and I do want to manage the friction as best I can.
  • 23 Dec 2012 03:57
    Reply # 1165563 on 1161782
    Deleted user
    I definitely like tying my halyard tail around the yard instead of the becket. Moving 1/3 of the halyard load a foot either direction is a nice bit of fine tuning of the yard sling point, and the time for that adjustment is next to nothing. Plus I *think* I trust my single knot more than the block plus lashing...if the block let go, it would go two-blocks at the masthead and the tail would still hold the sail up. OTOH if my knot fails the whole thing falls down. I guess I'm not buying a lot of security there!

    David, thank you for the warning about getting blocks out of line. I think as long as the parts are pretty close together it will work out fine. My double blocks at the masthead are actually two single blocks with a combined hanging point as manufactured, and they will twist relative to eachother a little bit which probably gives me a bit of extra leeway there.

    My halyards are 3:1 and I'm pretty happy with that, as I've got a big winch leftover from the original Freedom rig with direct halyards, and I only need it with the main for the most part.
  • 21 Dec 2012 19:01
    Reply # 1164861 on 1164804
    Kurt Jon Ulmer wrote:
    Lateral thinking...

    Barry: '...instead of tying off to the becket, I just tied the tail around the yard.'

    Great idea! In any odd-purchase halyard, this can distribute a fraction of the lifting load to another point on the yard, and add a little peaking-up, if tied aft of the sling point. 

    Substituting a knot and 2 single blocks, for a double block with a becket, spreads the lift over three points in a 5:1 halyard. This is geometrically way better than a bridle with very little height above the yard. 

    A related trick is to tie the halyard's tail to the deck, giving one less purchase (5:1 becomes 4:1) and keeping the tail handy for re-reeving.

    Kurt
    ... but be careful. If you have a double or triple block at the masthead, the leads of the parts of the halyard into that block will be offline. Better to use single blocks at the masthead if you want to use this idea.
  • 21 Dec 2012 17:54
    Reply # 1164804 on 1161782
    Lateral thinking...

    Barry: '...instead of tying off to the becket, I just tied the tail around the yard.'

    Great idea! In any odd-purchase halyard, this can distribute a fraction of the lifting load to another point on the yard, and add a little peaking-up, if tied aft of the sling point. 

    Substituting a knot and 2 single blocks, for a double block with a becket, spreads the lift over three points in a 5:1 halyard. This is geometrically way better than a bridle with very little height above the yard. 

    A related trick is to tie the halyard's tail to the deck, giving one less purchase (5:1 becomes 4:1) and keeping the tail handy for re-reeving.

    Kurt
  • 21 Dec 2012 04:30
    Reply # 1164446 on 1161782
    Deleted user
    For non adjusting parrels try webbing, it slides very easily.
  • 21 Dec 2012 02:44
    Reply # 1164404 on 1161782
    Deleted user
    I just backed that one out. The short parrels made for too much friction going both up and down. I think they bound up a bit with the downhaul/parrels too, but I'm pretty sure they would give trouble alone.

    I'm remembering a comment in PJR about short batten parrels: "They weren't observed in traditional junks." Perhaps this was the reason?

    Next I will shop for some some low-friction hose. (I'm thinking PEX plumbing pipe, but not sure what other people have used.) I'll be putting it around some of my lines, whatever I try next.
  • 20 Dec 2012 16:45
    Reply # 1164081 on 1161782
    Deleted user
    Back on topic here...my mizzen is pretty close to a classic Hasler-McLeod shape with a high aspect ratio, and I don't think it really will need the downhaul function very much.

    So I just fixed short parrels which should limit the forward motion of the battens. I couldn't do enough to make for full positive stagger, as the mast is raked aft and I tried to set the sail almost vertical...so the upper battens need to slide forward compared to the lower ones. But the mast is tapered starting between the first and second battens above the boom, so that will help me here.

    Since my top panels have more length in the luff than normal, I moved my standing throat parrel so it goes between the yard and the top batten instead of the one below it.

    I also adjusted the sling point on the yard slightly--My three-part yard uses a block attached to the yard, and instead of tying off to the becket, I just tied the tail around the yard. I moved the tail from a foot past the block to a foot forward of the block. Now my yard goes aft enough to allow my YHP to do something at full hoist or one panel reefed.

    I should be sailing again possibly later today, and tomorrow for sure...so I'll report what this does.

    Barry
  • 19 Dec 2012 00:23
    Reply # 1162802 on 1161782
    Mea culpa, I shouldn't have perpetuated the derailment of this topic. Postings re Teleport now moved elsewhere.
  • 19 Dec 2012 00:02
    Reply # 1162793 on 1161782
    Deleted user
    Hey admins...can you help? It looks like my thread got hijacked by the system putting stuff about Teleport in the NW Passage into it! Can you figure out where they belong and put them back there?
  • 18 Dec 2012 03:05
    Reply # 1162088 on 1161782
    Deleted user
    I think I'm going to have to fix my main sail a bit before I really see how well the downhaul parrels can work on it. The leading edge after the split is very slack right now, even with them. I sewed loops of boltrope to go around the battens, then discovered that the chafe protection (vinyl hose) changed the batten diameter so they didn't fit right. I opened the seam up a little to put the sail together, but I would like to clean that up.

    I think I'll try to set up short batten parrels on my mizzen and see if that helps stacking and perhaps reduces my need for Hong Kong parrels.
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