Building a mast from aluminium and wood

  • 25 Nov 2012 12:34
    Reply # 1145386 on 1144363
    I made a composite mast for Vanharouva with an aluminium profile and a GRP flagpole and I think the most important thing to remember is to strengthen  the GRP pole where it joins  the alu profile. The aluprofile is so much stiffer than the flagpole that there´s an apparent breaking point in the joint. I strengthened the pole with longitudinally directed glass and epoxy and there were no problems, but remember to sand away the topcoat first.
    Generally I think that GRP poles are too flexible for mast use and the only way to use them is as topmast to a stiffer profile and stiffen the joint so that the bending is smooth.
    Robin
  • 25 Nov 2012 08:58
    Reply # 1145327 on 1145114
    Anonymous member (Administrator)
    Gary King wrote:... Basicly the OD of the tube should be at least the same OD of a full hollow wood mast is at the height of where the top mast plugs into the alu. So you use that to check if your 100mm pole is big enough....

     

    Yes, I had planned to do exactly the check you describe. My boat is 6.5m x 2.4m, displacing 740kg empty and with no ballast, just a light cb instead of a keel.

    Arne

  • 25 Nov 2012 01:58
    Reply # 1145114 on 1144363
    Deleted user
    I'm building a couple composite masts. There is a section in PJR on them. Basicly the OD of the tube should be at least the same OD of a full hollow wood mast is at the height of where the top mast plugs into the alu. So you use that to check if your 100mm pole is big enough.

    Though I think you ought to checkout flag poles too, (your boat isn't big?), a wooden topmast is actually lighter per length than the aluminium pole (for Doug fir), since that part is supposed to be tapered.
    Last modified: 25 Nov 2012 01:59 | Deleted user
  • 24 Nov 2012 23:58
    Reply # 1145072 on 1144363
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

                                                                       Stavanger, Sunday

    You are right Paul.

    I had excluded the idea of checking flagpoles etc because I failed to find anything strong enough when I was to rig Johanna. I must remind myself that Frøken Sørensen (Frøken = Miss) has a righting moment only about 1/5 of that of Johanna.

    I’ll have a look around next week.

    Thanks for the reminder.

    Arne

  • 23 Nov 2012 22:50
    Reply # 1144481 on 1144463
    Arne Kverneland wrote:

    An alternative is to see if I can find a suitable grp flagpole. Such a mast would at least not refuse to take some extra layers of grp if needed.


    Arne, can you not get an aluminum pole? My experience with GRP masts has not been good, they have been amply strong but never stiff enough.  Aphrodite's original mast's were GRP and they bent like fishing poles despite never breaking. I also have sailed on a bermuda rigged boat with stayed GRP masts and they would pump in a most alarming fashion whenever the wind got up. Once again they never broke but it was near impossible to get a decently tight forestay. Sorry if I come across as negative but I'm just trying to pass om my experience.
  • 23 Nov 2012 22:40
    Reply # 1144478 on 1144363
    Deleted user
    I've not had good luck with aluminum--I have an old binnacle, and it had bad corrosion around the base where SS bolts were used to hold it down. I went to great effort to prep it and the paint is bubbling away at the base again within a year of putting it outside.

    I don't think my first layer of prep was correct looking back at it, but I'm just going to put up with it like this for another five or ten years before I try again! So I do understand the fear that this sort of glue job won't work very well.

    On the other hand, this sort of job you are talking about should provide a very big gluing surface, and the usual forces will just hold the two parts together in addition. So I think it could hold even though I don't trust that kind of glue much.

    If your aluminum pipe flexes too much, I wouldn't hold out much hope for a quick fix with epoxy and cloth. The outer layer takes all the stress first normally. But if there are two layers where one is stiffer than the other, the stiffer one does all the work, and the less stiff one is pretty much dead weight. Just like people who put fiberglass around a wood mast to stiffen it. (An outside layer can provide protection and seal out the weather or UV...but isn't structural strength.)

    The only way this would really work is if the two layers are the same stiffness...which pretty much means use the same stuff...like adding an extra layer of fiberglass to an existing fiberglass spar.
  • 23 Nov 2012 22:12
    Reply # 1144463 on 1144363
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Thanks, Rudolf and Paul,

    I have to go through the alternatives again.

    Making a wooden mast doesn’t appeal that much to me, partly as it will weigh some 25-30kg and partly, since it at 8.1m is over standard lumberyard length. The alternative is to make a pole mast as with my "full size" masts. Then I will either have to start with a spruce tree or buy a mast from a flagpole maker (to save time on waiting for the tree to dry) and then dig it out. Making an 8.2m mast from staves means a lot of critical scarf-joining and precision wood work and this is either a lot of work or quite expensive.

    The aluminium-wood concept is much cheaper on work and one will not need a big space for making it, most of the time.

    The 100mm aluminium tube will weigh 16.9kg (5.0m) so the composite wood-alu mast will anyway be lighter than the all-wooden mast. Still, as said, ease of making is my main goal here.

    An alternative is to see if I can find a suitable grp flagpole. Such a mast would at least not refuse to take some extra layers of grp if needed.

    BTW, the max righting moment of FS is calculated to 387kpm (3800Nm) and I aim for a mast twice that strong (not 3 times plus as strong as with my other mast designs).

    Arne

  • 23 Nov 2012 19:56
    Reply # 1144409 on 1144375
    Rudolf van der Brug wrote:Hi Arne,

    Anodised alu is no problem at all when it comes to glueing with epoxy.
    Bare alu needs very good sanding before glue/epoxy will hold.
    You can use all sorts of glue on aluminium, provided you sand untill you notice the
    hard corrosion layer has gone. You can feel the material underneath is softer.
    With the corrosion gone gluing should be no problem.
    I did some glassing to alu in the past but it was meant to come loose.
    It did, sometimes very easily. I didn't bother to sand all that much as I wanted it to come
    off.
    At the moment I am working on cargo hatches from aluminium. I am gluing isolation and wooden parts to them using a two part polyurethane glue and vacuum.

    Rudolf


    Hi Rudolf,

    I'm sure you are right and in your workshop where you have a the facilities that you need, you get the results you say. However my experience is that in the field and in the average professional workshop the results are unreliable. I have always use the Gougeon brothers technique put the epoxy on and then sanded and indeed it has stuck but I have no faith in it. I have just seen to many epoxy (both paint & glue) failings when it comes to aluminum.
  • 23 Nov 2012 19:00
    Reply # 1144375 on 1144363
    Hi Arne,

    Anodised alu is no problem at all when it comes to glueing with epoxy.
    Bare alu needs very good sanding before glue/epoxy will hold.
    You can use all sorts of glue on aluminium, provided you sand untill you notice the
    hard corrosion layer has gone. You can feel the material underneath is softer.
    With the corrosion gone gluing should be no problem.
    I did some glassing to alu in the past but it was meant to come loose.
    It did, sometimes very easily. I didn't bother to sand all that much as I wanted it to come
    off.
    At the moment I am working on cargo hatches from aluminium. I am gluing isolation and wooden parts to them using a two part polyurethane glue and vacuum.

    Rudolf

  • 23 Nov 2012 18:58
    Reply # 1144374 on 1144363
    Arne, I can tell you from hard won experience that nothing sticks to aluminum particularly well. You can improve adhesion considerable by sandblasting the tube before hand but the adhesion is still not as good as it is between epoxy and other materials.

    However, I would urge you to look at your design again. A wooden top section puts the most weight exactly where you would rather not have it (note, I'm not saying that it does not work. It does but is certainly not optimal). Check out where your center of gravity is, it may be that a heavier wood mast may still have its COG in a lower position and so may still result in a stiffer boat for you.

    Annie's mast made sense for her as good timber is expensive and hard to get here in New Zealand. I do believe that is not the case in your country. Also, you are going to have to make the wood top mast, it really is not going to take all that much longer to make a full wooden mast.

    You have a whole winter ahead of you and making a small mast is not really a very big project, so I'd seriously consider building a proper wood mast if I were you.
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